Pin Chuck

My interest in a pin chuck is for

I hear what you all are saying and can see Alan's point as excellent.

What blows me is that at Klingspor's yesterday the manager gave me this weird look when I asked about a pin chuck! Never heard of such a critter.

So, where do you get this thing?

TomNie

Hi other Leo

Yes like you say the woodworm screw pulls the blank against the chuck jaws, my 2" woodworm goes in approx. 1.5 " and when using the #3 jaws on my stronghold it behaves just like a 4" faceplate with not half a dozen small screws, but just one big screw, by drilling a slight undersize hole in softer wood you can still get a good hold on the wood, and you really need a spindle lock when you have to unscrew the bowl or blank if it is a smaller piece.

On a half log the chain sawn side is just fine to use like that, and if you want to make a natural edge bowl, drilling a hole on the bark side that is going to be turned away is normally all that's needed, however if you really want to get the grain and shape balanced then turning between centers is the best way to set up the blank, and then turn the tenon or recess on the blank.

Using a 2 1/4" forstner bit is naturally a option if you have one and then one can hold the blank that way directly on a chuck.

The pin chuck of course is if really looked at closely a solid cylinder in a cylindric hole, and if it was not for the wood being able to deform some there would be only two narrow points pressing against the outside wall, on one side the roll pin and on the other side the smaller inside cylinder against the outer cylinder, if one exaggerates this, this is easy to see, however the best one can expect from this setup holding a wood blank is one half of the pin to bear against the wood. All that is stopping the wood from turning is a short thin pin, soft wood could easily be stripped out on startup, if one has a larger motor, or even a bad catch.

The wood blank is slit onto the pin, (a fairly short pin) 1 1/2" or so, there has to be clearance, so it has room to move some, if one was to grab the outside edge of the blanks you would be able to wiggle that blank, (not so with a blank on a woodworm screw), and makes for a less stable (read wobbly) blank when not using the tailstock support.

Using a tailstock center to help the blank makes for a stable set up, without the support I think it is not so stable or safe.

Also some, if not most wood chucks come with a woodwurm screw, and it is in my opinion the better choice of the two. The other Leo

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Got my new one at

That will work fine, it's really a matter of proportions between the size of the pin and the spindle that it is used on. My unscientific studies have told me that a pin diameter of not more than 1/3rd of the spindle's, and not less than 1/8th, will work OK. Pretty wide range, yes. A few variables involved, such as hardness of wood (harder is better) and length (longer has better holding power). Soft woods can be helped along with an application of CA glue in the hole. Be careful not to glue the spindle in the hole, you'll have to heat it up good to release it. DAMHIKT.

I made myself a set of pin chuck spindles from 3/8" to 1" diameter for holding predrilled blanks to turn vases with glass tube inserts, and they all have the same pin size: 1/8". I have a box of common nails, not sure what size (10 penny?) to make pins from because I keep losing them in the shavings.

Ken Grunke

Nope, I mean it's not a pure chord. Perhaps this will suffice for a thousand or so

"George" wrote: (clip) Bi-directional simply have a flat chord milled, and are more prone to rolling the pin out of the flat if you've got a lot of inertia. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I made one out of a 1" bolt, using only a hack saw and a file--obviously, it had to be what you call a "pure chord." The main disadvantage I have is that there is no "pocket" to hold the little pin from rolling off while sliding on the wood. It's okay for pieces that can be fitted with one hand, but if I have to use it on a really heavy piece, I may have to resort to CA glue to keep the pin from falling.

Probably not.

The way I used the old chuck was to insert the full-section part into the piece, draw the tailstock bumper up to hold, then insert the roll pin.

George,

I'll see what we can do.

Appreciate you taking time to snap the photos; aren't digital cameras a great accessory to have.

Regards, Alan

From George's excellent information and photos it would seem possible to modify a flat chord pin chuck by adding a thick ridge of silicone sealant on one side of the flat. As the silicone doesn't take a part in the wood holding, it may be worth a try. The side to add it would be the leading side as the chuck rotates. When cured, the pin could rest against this while you loaded on the wood. If it didn't work, just cut it off!

Safe turning, Alan

Has anyone tried magnetizing the pin slightly so it doesn't roll off? Martin

Yes. It helps. I posted a note about this several months ago. I talked with Packard and they thought this was a good idea and were going to talk about it to their supplier.

Uri Geller visited our club and tried it, but unfortunately only managed to bend the pin!...and my watch has never worked properly since his visit either!!

It is worth a try, but I feel it is best not to hamper it moving freely in the direction it needs to move. Stopping it moving in the opposite direction is another matter.

Regards, Alan

Think I mentioned magnetizing in an earlier post. Works well on the new one, but does have to be renewed with a few strokes on a magnet every couple of months. Keeps the fall outs under control, where otherwise it takes patience I seldom have when I'm in the middle of a piece to remember to rotate to a position where the pin remains firm in the socket.

Ever see Uri bend a wooden spoon?

"George" wrote: (clip) Ever see Uri bend a wooden spoon? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I have seen Uri bend the truth.

Clever tie-in, Alan. Do you belong to the Skeptics Society, by any chance?

Wrap some insulated wire tightly around the pin as many turns as you can and touch the loose ends to a car battery's posts. Draw a spark for just an instant. It's now magnetized.

Same for allen wrenches, screwdrivers, etc. etc.

TomNie

George's method is easier... just draw it across a magnet a few times.. always in the same direction..

Most of my lathe tools are magnetized from being held by rare earth magnets and pulled off the magnet.. Mac

Hi Tom

I would not advice that, good chance of blowing up your battery for one, getting an acid shower is no fun, and just cracking your battery is bad enough. Also you will burn your fingers in a blink of an eye. There are magnetizer/demagnetizers for sale, if one does not have a good magnet around to use like Mac advises, stroke it, just the same direction.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo