Power sanding for bowls...

As I explore the joys of turning, I'm learning a lot. Thanks, folks, for all of the experience, and opinion, that you share so freely.

Power sanding:

I'm confused as to where to proceed. The catalogs have their usual bewildering array, and while they certainly wish me no active ill will, their express purpose in life is to melt down my Amex card. ;-)

Inertial sanders. Air powers dual action sanders. Electric angle sanders. Wave discs. Foam backed pads. So many competing choices!

I've got a new Jet 1442, having retired the Shopsmith to 'other, less stressful duties'. (OK, there are a bunch of boxes piled on top of it in the shed right now.) I've been turning salad-style bowls in the 10"-14" range, in dry cabinet-style woods, because I have access to some free - to

- cheap offcuts up to 12/4. I've started on some green wood turning, but that goes slowly, primarily due to stock prep and storage right now. (I know that once I get rolling, that may change.)

So what should I try next?

Patriarch

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Patriarch
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There's an excellent article on sanding bowls in the latest edition of the AAW magazine. Hope you have joined! Lots of good tips for everyone and dazzling displays of what our fellow turners are producing. When I get my copy, I skip over those as otherwise I just retreat to a closet and cry! *G*

Leif

Reply to
Leif Thorvaldson

Power sanding's the way to go. What I've settled on is an old washing machine motor powering a flexible shaft. I sand with the lathe on, support the handpiece of the shaft as if it were a rotary scraper, so it barely touches the surface. I let the lathe bring the surface to the sander, not vice-versa. Much better surface that way over sanding with the bowl still, where you can dig in with the edges - what wave papers are supposed to solve - or follow into soft spots with spalted woods.

I like the Power Lock system for most sanding, using 2" disks to maintain better control over angles, and the flex edge types for tight spots. Generally the first grit or two go with them, then to 2 or 3" soft-backed velcro at 220/320. I keep more in contact with the piece now, using the larger footprint to bridge small soft spots. 320 is about as low as I go under power, because even a light touch can heat and harden with paper that fine or finer. Lathe goes off, and sanding by wrist power, or the piece comes off to be finished by hand.

Advantages to the method I use over drill motors are the better access afforded by the shaft, full control with less fatigue by supporting the handpiece, and better dust collection, because I can position the collecting point where gravity aids me, since the sanding is done at nearly the same place. Not to mention the longer abrasive life gained by never heating the paper.

Reply to
George

The only draw back to the power sanding that I can see is that the vents on the sander blow the dust every where. I have beet thinking about putting vents over the aft vents in the sander. They would point to the head, which would help direct the air stream towards the collector. I took half of a white plastic 55 gallon drum and made a hood out of it. It bolts to a bracket where the safety shield would go. The bottom of the barrel is cut out to fit around the shaft of the head stock, with the tailstock end and front being open. I use a heavy clear piece of window plastic to cover the open end. This has the bowl about

75% covered by the hood. With me standing in front of the hood, there is a lot of air pulling almost all of the dust into the collector. One Way has something similar that they make. I used to use about half power and half hand sanding. As I progress in my skills, I am doing almost all power. If I start with a courser grit, say 100 grit, I will usually power sand to 150 then hand sand at 150 grit. The hand sanding leaves a different scratch pattern that the power sanding, so it makes it easier to see scratcher that haven't been sanded out. I then power sand to 320 or so, and finish at 320 or finer by hand. I like the linear scratch pattern of hand sanding rather than the circular pattern of the power sander. Beyond 600 or so grit, you can't see the scratches.

Power sanding saves time. If you want to save money on your sanding discs, cut your own. I buy 12 inch wide rolls of h & l from Klingspoor. I had three cutters made, using 1, 2, and 3 inch i.d. pipe sections about 1 1/2 inches long. I had a friend ream out the inside so the discs would be 1/8 inch over the diameter (3 1/8 inch). They need to be hardened. There is about a 45 degree bevel on the outside, and a small bevel on the inside of the cutting edge. For a punch board a piece of

1/2 inch plastic works. Punching can be done 3 ways; A small sledge hammer, and a wood block over the cutter. A larger arbor press. Or if you are lucky like me, a small table top punch press which can punch out 5 layers at a time. These are sometimes available to rent at some leather mfg. places. When punching, I put the sand side down. This might make a good club or group project. It reduces the cost of the discs to less than half.

robo hippy

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robo hippy

Reply to
william_b_noble

I've been power sanding for a few months now and loving it... I started out on a budget with the stuff below and an old craftsman 3/8 corded drill.. it works great and maybe someday when I'm rich, I'll buy a little right angle drill.. *g*

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type this number in the search box:FP30000 Get the hook & loop disks in the 10 pack, and when you find out which grits you use, the 50 pack is a pretty good deal..

Compared to what I was paying for sand paper, these are a money and time saver... I've used one set of discs (3 grits.. i love h&L) on 3 or 4 bowls before they wore out..

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

Reply to
James R. Shields

My shopsmith doesn't have reverse, but I was thinking that if I mounted the faceplate on the rear shaft.... hmm... sounds too easy, I'll have to take a look today..

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

How old does a Shopsmith have to be to have reverse?

Reply to
Ralph

It will work on the rear shaft. This reverse sanding was identified by some Shopsmith literature I had at one time(may still have it somewhere).

Reply to
Ralph

For sanding

This makes sense to you, Mac? "Sanding against the cut?"

Not sure how you cut, but I cut from rim to bottom inside, bottom to rim outside. Leaves concentric gouge marks which are best removed by sanding across them. On a disk, means touching 345 to 015 degrees, or 165 to 195. Of course, if the piece itself is rotating, the actual pattern of scratches will be some sort of angled one, though it would be an "X" (with curved legs) if one went bottom then top. If the piece were rotating in reverse? Still an "X" overall. Broaden the legs by sanding closer to 090 or 270.

The advantage of power sanding over hand sanding is that when hand sanding, you're trying to remove marks by sanding in the same pattern of concentric marks, with power, you can cut across them. Makes much shorter work of removal.

Reply to
George

Yeah, it's probably too good to be true. I had the same thought about the rear shaft of my Delta Midi, and upon removing the handwheel discovered that the threads were not only a different tpi count, but had a big dead spot in the center where the set screws go. Too bad, really- it would have been handy to turn slightly larger things on the outside.

Reply to
Prometheus

The Shaft on a Shopsmith is not threaded. Attachments are held on with a set screw. If you look at the rear shaft you will observe a flat section on the shaft for set screws. , the same as the front shaft.

Reply to
Ralph

thanks, ralph... I was going to check it out last night, but my Mini died and ruined my night pretty effectively.. *sigh*

Going shopping today for a Jet 1442 vsk...

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

dunno, George.. I just hit a few pieces where the hand and power sanding is causing "mini-tear out" and if I hand sand in the other direction (with the grain?) the bowl is sanded smoother without burnishing it.. it seems to "stand up" the fibers like one of those old Norelco commercials, but then leaving them instead of cutting them off.. lol

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

commercials, but

Rotating the piece? Revealing the tearout, probably. All directions are possible with a disk and a rotating piece, so it's a tough thing to figure....

Reply to
George

Not sure this is all relevant to the discussion but does relate to sanding. Having turned now for over a year I find that fewer of my bowls need to start sanding at 89 grit. Often I can start at 180 and that is indeed a godsend. Where I find tearout and 80 or even 60 is a pain, I use sanding sealer. Glop some on. Let dry for 12 hours or so and hit with the sandpaper starting at 120. Seems to work well for me.

commercials, but

Reply to
Kevin

: For sanding :> >I run the Shopsmith in reverse thereby sanding against the cut for better :> >results. I start out with foam pads on an electric drill.

: This makes sense to you, Mac? "Sanding against the cut?"

Well, if you turn the piece with the spindle rotating counterclockwise, the fibers (on faceplate turning) will tend to be pushed clockwise. (You can tell this by turning it, lathe off, in each direction, and feeling more roughness in the clockwise direction).

So, sanding against the grain would be to sand with the sandpaper turning c-clockwise with respect to the piece.

-- Andy Barss

Reply to
Andrew Barss

Hi Mac , maybe you should go for some more quality and make it a Oneway mini, no more ruined nights!!

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:

Reply to
Leo Van Der Loo

Mac when you have the hair standing on end spray some hair spray on them, let dry and give it a shave, LOL, might work for you you know, LOLL .

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote: snip/ if I hand sand in the other direction (with the

Reply to
Leo Van Der Loo

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