Turning vs Sanding

Jan 29, 2004 10 Replies

I'm making a number of 12 inch spindles from 3/4 inch kiln-dried walnut and find that I'm spending more time sanding ( 100, 120, 150, 220 GRIT) than I am turning. No matter how sharp my spindle gauge or how gentle my cut, I can't get a smooth surface from the tool, especially near the middle where the vibration kicks in. I've seen how-to videos where the woodturner got a surface like glass without sanding and wonder if there's something wrong with my technique or is that just the way it is when making skinny spindles from walnut.


Robert Kline wrote: (clip) I can't get a smooth surface from the tool, especially near the middle where the vibration kicks in (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^ I can see why a 3/4" x 12" spindle might tend to vibrate--yet it is so short that a steady-rest would really be in the way. A technique that works for me, and has also been suggested by others in this group, is to use the fingers of one hand as a pseudo-steady. Assuming you are right-handed, put your left thumb on the skew, and let the four fingers lie on top of the work and curl around it. That will damp out most of the vibration, and give you excellent tool control at the same time.

I would revise to "left thumb on the tool", to include a gouge or beading tool, which is often a better choice than a skew, and remember that slower speeds are easier on the hand.

Oh yes, I cut higher above center than normal on thin spindles. Seems to help. Say 30 degrees ATC.

"George" skrev i melding news:4019628b$1 snipped-for-privacy@newspeer2.tds.net...

Using a cutting techniqe instead of a scraping techniqe is first rule for me. Scraping creates vibration, cutting keeps it down.

I like to work like that, with thumb on iron and fingers as "steadyrest", but with a leather glove (well oiled then dried) on my left hand. The oiled glove helps to protect my fingers, but also helps to "oil" the final cuts before sanding, makes the cuts smoother, is my experience. (Not reducing the benefits of a sharp gouge!)

Bjarte

1) Sharp tool (but then you said that that's not the problem). 2) Not too much tailstock pressure. It causes some whipping too. 3) If using a spindle gouge with a fingernail grind: ride the bevel high, tilt it so that you're cutting with the "wing" of the tool and do a pull-type cut instead of push-type. You are CUTTING and not SCRAPING, right? 4) Cut toward the headstock. 5) Use a steady. If no room for that, use your fingers. If too hot or sharp edges or otherwise can't do that, use a finger glove or a homemade finger-steady-rest made from small PVC cut in half and lightly taped to your finger. 6) Use a skew (My personal preference, actually) 7) Try the skew again 8) Keep practicing the skew 9) Turn the speed up. I'd be using 2,200rpm or more for such a spindle. Makes the wood "stiffer" but heats it up quicker too. 10) Blame it on the wood, lathe, tools, tilt-of-the-earth, or anything you can think of. Buy a Stubby and try it again. Blame it on technique at that point. Take a class from someone who does this kind of thing regularly.

So, what are you doing different from the how-to video? Anything? Are you using the clear, straight-grained, best-of-breed woods that most of the how-to video turners use?

I've been turning a lot of thin (down to 1/16" diameter), long (up to 3') spindles for about 9 months now and it's just not easy sometimes. It takes a steady lathe, sharp tools, good wood and, most importantly, great technique. I'm steadily getting better with these trembleurs.

- Andrew

============================== Andrew, Are you doing the trembleurs just for fun and practice, or do you have a market for them? About 5 years ago, I saw some pictures of the trembleur that Jean Esculon (SP?) did for his guild's master certification. He kept it in a glass tube so the air drafts wouldn't break it. He used a series of string steadys to eliminate any whip or vibration. I was impressed with that but even more impressed with what he was able to do with the eccentric chuck he designed.

Ken Moon Webberville, TX

I go a long with Andrew but a string steady might be something you would like to consider.

Also start at the tailstock and work to the headstock finishing as you go. You can't go back. It will either vibrate to destruction or break straight away.

Vary your speed and watch the effect.,.

Yes, for fun and practice and just to test myself. I had heard Jean say at some point that if you can impress a master turner with a trembleur, you are a master turner yourself. Well, needless to say, I'm no master turner but some day, maybe.

If I can ever succeed in making one that I'd like to show anybody else, I might try to find a market. But it wouldn't be in this area. I'd need to send it somewhere else. I do like the idea of the glass (or clear plastic) tubes to store them in. Simply getting them off the lathe has ruined a quarter of mine! I normally just hang mine (the ones that I'm reasonably happy with anyway) upside down and then sit them right-side-up when I want to watch them "tremble". The two longest ones that I've kept so far is a

30" - 5 ball and a 33" - 7 ball. They're nothing I'd show another woodturner but they're good enough to impress the non-turners and keep me motivated. The hardest part is making one that's good looking ... getting the proportions right. I do it all without a chart of dimensions so it's pretty tough to develop that "eye".

Yes, I use the string steadies on the finished portions too. I will use a spindle steady to my left on the unworked (but still flattened so they ride smoothly) side as I move down toward the headstock. The string steadies work great but they tend to leave little burnished or even slight burn marks. I have to CAREFULLY hand sand those out afterward. I think the most steadies (string and just spindle) I've had on one is 5 at once.

I've seen his eccentric work too and it's just amazing! I've not gotten into that yet though. There's just too many things to explore. *sigh*

Have you done any trembleurs, Ken?

- Andrew

I turn a lot of dry walnut. I make a basket of spurtles and give them away when someone comes to visit. So I start with 15/16" stock and turn it. The only way I can get a glassy smooth surface is with a skew. I haven't mastered it but when the tilt of the earth is just right and I hold my mouth correctly, it is a near perfect surface. Like the previous poster said, start to the right and work left. Don't go back. I cut my handles at the head stock and part them off. Hope this helps. RP

Andrew ============================== No, I haven't. Jean did a demo for our club (Central Texas Woodturners Assoc) while he was in the US promoting his new (at that time) chuck. He had a slide show to go along with his turning demo. What an amazing body of work ! One of our group had spent time at his studio/class in France, and that's one of my life goals. That was just a short time before I was hit with a neurological condition that took my legs out from under me and put me in a wheel chair for the past 4 years. I've only started to be able to use a stool to turn in the last few months. Prior to the medical problems, I was using a monotube lathe, and I did't have a way to tension blanks for anything like the trembleurs. Now I have a biugger, more stable lathe, and after I feel like I have properly retrained my hands, I may try some of those. Ken

try changing the speed, either faster or slower

Rex Haslip Auckland New Zealand

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