Problem re-chucking

Sep 01, 2003 8 Replies

I am novice and this is an understatement who is having problems rechucking something after I make a dovetail spigot(I hope that is the right term) I attempted to make two boxes and everything seems to be alright until I try to turn a bottom or a top separately.Today I parted the lid from the base remounted it in my chuck hollowed the inside and everything was ok. When I went to remount the bottom it would not sit straight in the chuck and hollowing was a complete failure. I cut both ends with a parting tool and attempted to true both end. When I sat both end on a table they sat flat. I guess I am doing something wrong making the end to fit the chuck-any ideas Harry


-- Harry


If a piece doesn't spin true, loosen the chuck and rotate the piece 1/4 turn. Then spin again. Repeat until the item runs true.

A potential mistake is making the spigot so deep that it touches the base of the jaws rather than the protruding faces of the jaws.

Derek

One other thing...

It is possible to turn lidded boxes without ever rechucking. That may be the best solution.

Bill

I read in "dovetail spigot" that you are not using the serrated type of jaws on your chuck. When I do, I try to chuck fresh if I rechuck, because previously torn fibers can give some funny direction when I tighten. I use the tailstock to provide pressure against the piece as I do it. If you are not using that type of jaw, rather the dovetailed jaws with slick interior, registering against the front of the jaw is the best answer, and you can help yourself by removing a modest amount of the wood right at the base so that tightening the jaws draws the piece into tighter registry. Use the tailstock to help hold tightly as you work the chuck. Might even consider, if you have a Nova center, using one of your jam cones to help center.

One personal failing I have is not cleaning up fibers torn by the process of making the spigot and the mild undercut. You should make things clean, or expect movement as some of the torn fibers dry, and wedge the piece strangely.

I forgot to mention that if working with green wood, periodically check the tightness of the chuck jaws as the wood will shrink. Checking the tightness is good regardless of green or dry, as the wood will move as it adjust to the removal on the lathe. Regards Lewis

Bill Rubenstein wrote It is possible to turn lidded boxes without ever rechucking.

I must be stupid because I can't envision how this is possible. Could you supply a web link or written reference that contains the technique? I'm curious.

Bill Rubenstein wrote "It is possible to turn lidded boxes without ever rechucking."

************************* Larry replied: "I must be stupid because I can't envision how this is possible. Could you supply a web link or written reference that contains the technique? I'm curious. ************************ I had to really think about this because I don't rechuck boxes and thought maybe I was wrong and actually did rechuck. But I was right, I don't. (clear as mud?)

Richard Raffan demonstrates turning a non-re-chucking box in his video and book "Turning Wood".

Now I'm curious, why would you have to rechuck? To clean the bottom? To turn a finial on the lid? Why wouldn't you do this in one step while it's in the chuck?

Ruth

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Bill Rubenstein wrote: : The best reference on making boxes is Richard Raffin's book on Boxes.

I also put in a vote for Chris Stott's "Turned Boxes: 50 Designs". it's a great book.

-- Andy Barss

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