Richard Raffin uses mineral oil and bees' wax. Apply with pressure while lathe is running so as to generate heat. The advantage is that the finish is easily repaired. Some people believe that, in time, the finish isn't very good. Carnuba wax mixtures will give you a much harder finish than bees wax.
This is a BIG subject. A lot depends on what you are turning and what it is going to be used for. Salad bowls need a completely different finish from candle sticks, I think.
So, what do you want to finish?
Bill
I have been using Bees wax to put on a shine on my turnings but go dull in
> no time. I have heard that using some sort of oil and wax method. Has anyone
> heard off such a method.
>
>
>
Thanks Mike. I've stolen every bit of knowledge I have from everybody who has come before me.
There are all kinds of mixtures (I've tested over 600 different ones for myself and I've not been doing this very long) and many people, and especially companies, won't tell you what they actually use in their mixtures. I've not gone the commercial route (yet) so I'll give you a couple of wax/oil recipes that I've found generally useful.
The way I generally make my mixtures is to melt the waxe(s) in a double-boiler type of arrangement slowly and then add the oil gently while stirring. I only add my solvents, if I'm using them, when the heat is off and out of the area with plenty of ventilation.
My double-boiler is just some short wide-mouth glass jars sitting in large pot with about 2 inches of water. Heat the pot on the stove. I also use some wire coat hangers wrapped around the glass jars so they won't tip over while the water boils. Not the safest way to heat flammable things (wax included!) but if you take it slow and gentle then it's not too dangerous.
I then let my fluid mixture cool completely. If I'm working on making a new mixture where I don't know if it'll be a solid, cream, or liquid I'll wait to see what it becomes in the glass jar. I can always heat it back up and transfer it to whatever container I want after that. If, for example, I'm wanting a solid bar, then while the mixture is still hot and liquid in the glass jar, I'll pour it from there into my mold. Otherwise, I'll just leave it in the glass jar or whatever container it needs to be in.
You'll have to play with your recipes to get a cream as opposed to a solid depending on what incredients you use. One beeswax isn't the same as the next, for example, and takes different concentrations to be a cream. Just don't add too much oil or solvent at first and you can always add more later for a creamier product. Of course you can do the same with adding more "solids" like beeswax to make a cream more solid too but that can add a lot to the mass of the product rather than the reverse.
OK. On to a few recipies. These are my common ones that have to do with beeswax. There are LOTS of other ones without beeswax. Many commercial products use these as bases for their wood finishes. Remember, these are just basic ones and not suitable to all situations but maybe you'll get some ideas to play around with your own mixtures.
All amounts are by volume
1) Good general purpose. Brings out the grain. Oil hardens and protects. Dries relatively fast. Makes a cream.
1/3 Boiled Linseed Oil (Tung oil or Walnut oil are substitutes depending on wood used on)
1/3 filtered Beeswax (Carnauba wax for harder/durability, Paraffin for softer/glossier/slicker)
1/3 Solvent (Turpentine, Mineral Spirits, Naptha, Toulene, etc. Different solvents dry faster than others)
2) Good for making into a rub-on stick. Completely safe quickly. Used on general kitchenware
1/5 Mineral Oil (Substitute Tung Oil or Walnut Oil to make the grain "POP" on spalted pieces and good protection)
4/5 Beeswax
3) Old recipe. Used as a base for many others. (Substitute phenolic resins for the BLO to have high builds. Much like Waterlox but wax-based). Makes a cream.
1/3 Boiled Linseed Oil (for higher shine and hardness)
1/3 Tung Oil (for water resistance UNDER the beeswax which will get messed up with water)
1/3 Beeswax
Similarly, I use blonde shellac and tung oil in the above proportions. This finish really shines on hard tropicals like Padauk, Cocobolo, Kingwood and others. But, like you said, one must sand to a very fine grit to get the absolutely best depth that the gloss finish can offer. I run up to 220 using Mirka papers and then go to their foam backed 320 and then into the Abralon line (500, 1000, 2000 & 4000). Gor-Jeeusss.
For the original poster, check out Russ Fairfield's disertation on the various finishes and their applications - it's a must-save if you'd like to try a different finish than your regular:
_____ American Association of Woodturners Cascade Woodturners Assoc., Portland, Oregon Northwest Woodturners, Tigard, Oregon _____
InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.