Even better with the oil on it. Delayed intelligence: Mike Mahoney sells walnut oil on his site that supposedly hardens, whereas raw walnut oil will stay soft. My daughter, a latter day hippy in Santa Cruz, swears by it for her kitchen table top and a bowl I made her.
I tried dying veneer with both alcohol and water based dye, was unsucessful at getting the color all the way through the wood, no matter how long I left it soak. Please let us know if you succeed!
I thought you'd been at this for years.
My first Real turning was a box. Terrific suction fit (Gentlemen, make sure your toupes are anchored!), but it looked like a can of Rustoleum. I thought about a series - like WD40, Raid, Pam, etc. But the suction fit is difficult.
You are way ahead of where I was!
I don't recall seeing a turned, veneered object. How do you plan to do this?
Mine was also a lidded box made from green cherry. (Although I still harbor some consternation about using the name "box" to describe a round object...)
And although the fit was good at first, warpage slowly made the fit less than stellar...
It is glued between segment wedges or entire rings to provide a thin line detail. You don't actually turn the veneer per se, or apply the veneer to a turned object. Think of it as a really thick glue line with grain. ;-)
FWIW,
Greg G.
Thanks. The oil really highlighted the color and figure.
Perfect for bean sprouts and kelp sandwiches... ;-) Common oils are fine finishes that are easily repairable. Common mineral oil is food safe, widely available, and looks OK. Vegetable oils can go rancid, however.
Haven't tried it yet. Had some concern that the problem you describe might exist. Maybe if I load a pressure cooker up with alcohol based stain and cook it, it would penetrate. ;-)
(Something other than the walls and ceiling.)
FWIW,
Greg G.
Ah! Sort of like making banding.
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