Skew again

---------/ long point /

-------/ short point

The short point is used for beads, smoothing, and other fine-control cuts where accessibility is good. Having the unused portion of the edge ahead of the cutting part helps prevent dig-ins by giving you more bevel to rub.

The long point is used for v-grooves, end grain, and other restricted cuts. Since the remainder of the edge is behind the cutting part, there's less bevel so more care is needed.

Cutting transitions from square regions to round regions is a job for the long point too - hold the skew parallel to the ground, long point down, tool rest at the centerline, and cut from the square portion to the round portion. The high angle of cut (very shear) reduces tear-out. Note: this is a similar operation to end-grain cuts.

For planing and roughing, it depends on how you're comfortable holding it. Holding the skew non-perpendicular changes the way the bevel rubs, and how the edge cuts.

Well done! You have made a great decision to practice and perfect your skills rather than trying to jump right in to a real project.

Your observation about tool sharpness is very astute. Here are two reasons why that might be:

But I'm not sure I would recommend roughing down with the skew. It is typically sharpened with a more acute angle than the roughing gouge (assuming you have one of those of course) and will loose its edge much faster.

Yes, sharp, sharp sharp!

I am roughing with it for now only as a technical exercise.

I have a sorby 3/4 oval and a 1" normal (record) skew. I do have a roughing gouge, 3/4".

Thanks for the response.

Well okay. I will play with the long point today. I can scrape with it but will actually try cutting in some v groves and beads that require a long point to cut in to. I am wrestling it in all different ways to learn about it, 1100 to 1500 rpm. Even trying some things I know will dig in, just to see how far I can push it.

Thanks for your advice.

John

DJ Delorie wrote:

Well yesterdays practice session went real good. using the long point and doing several beads and various grooves, was easier (for me) than the short point. Looking at the stacks of spindles over the last few days is really incredible the improvement. Diving right in has been the best thing for me. My confidence with the tool has really improved and now dI can actually "use" it. Before all I could do was grag it like a parting tool to make marks on the wood.

Thanks to everybody also in the other thread started by Paul!

John

DJ Delorie wrote:

I would also like to thank everyone for their help as I am sure I missed a few. I have continued mucking about but much improved due to the great help (and encouragement; confidence is always a big part) provided here. I still catch like a SOB when trying to clean up tenon shoulders, but will revisit some references to see where that is going wrong. Otherwise I am getting clean glossy wood with better results then my (very novice) work with a gouge.

PK

try Alan Lacer's videoThe skew--the dark side and the sweet side. I found it really helpfull. He has a web site.