I need some help

Could someone out here in the group give me some advice about spindle turning? 1) I am having a devil of a time in going from the square section of the turning, to where the," in the round," begins. 2) I am using a , Sears brand set of tools that are said to be high speed steel, and I'm sure they are sharp, so i don't think I can blame the tools. 3) I am currently using the skew ,.point down on the toolrest to plunge into the spindle I'm turning, and can't for the life of me figure out what I'm doing wrong. Please ,..any advice, as I'm new to woodturning , Thanks for any advice and or help.

Reply to
jwelsh
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Hi,

Why don't you visit Mr. Clifford's site, go check the videos, he shows you how to do it...

His site is at:

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Jean.

Reply to
Jean Michel

First off, I'm also a total newbie and have almost no experience, so keep that in mind. But, I have bought a few books and they seem to give a good overview of what to do. I got Ernie Conover's "The Lathe Book", which I've found to be at a good entry level for my understanding. I also got his book entitled "Turning for Furniture" or something similar to that. That book has a very good description of spindle turning, as well as other techniques. I'm sure if you do a google search on spindle turning you will find a lot of information. here's the link i've found most helpful:

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goes through a LOT of detail about turning and is written with thebeginner in mind. So, having said that, you are using the wrong tool to do the job you're trying to do. A skew is meant to give a final smooth finish to an already rounded billet. You need to use a roughing gouge, or if you don't have one, a relatively large spindle gouge. The roughing gouge works wonders, and it was one of the first tools I bought. It's a big gouge, with a flat profile at the end. To turn a square billet round, you come in at a high angle, rub the bevel and the lower the blade until you start getting shavings/chips and then move along the length of the billet. Keep doing that until you get "in the round". I'm not sure if this will make sense to you, so I again refer you to the link above and the books mentioned. I'm sure some more experienced posters in the group will give you a better idea what to do.

Mike

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Reply to
Mike in Mystic

I believe the original poster is trying to cut the transition from square to turned on a spindle.

I use a spindle gouge, turned on its side with the flute facing the turned portion of the spindle to make the transition cuts.

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA

Reply to
Nova

Cutting the transition from the square section to the round section is called a pommel cut and the skew is considered by many as the ideal tool to use. Billh

Reply to
billh

jwelsh wrote: ....snip...."3) I am currently using the skew ,.point down on the toolrest to plunge into the spindle I'm turning,"

****************************** If you need a sharp cut down to round, the skew with the point down is fine. If you are rounding the corner of the square part, then use a bowl gouge. The roughing gouge will work but you don't have quite the fine control of that transitional corner.

Rough down the main part of the spindle, it may help get the corners out of your way as they can jar the skew (very annoying!).

I use the skew but make V cuts with the left side cuting the angle (or non-angle) of the shoulder. The V cuts getting wider and wider to allow smooth cutting with the point of the skew.

Since I have webtv, I can't view Brian Cliffords videos, but everyone seems to agree they are great tutorials. That's the URL others have posted in their response.

For about 7 yrs. I've been making 85% of my living doing spindle turning so I've had plenty of practice. Try the skew, bowl and roughing gouge on scrap pieces and see which you like best or is easiest for you to use.

Ruth

Woodturners Logo My shop and Turnings at

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Reply to
Ruth

If I understand your question, you are trying to make the transition from square to round.

  1. Start with the blank "in the square".

  1. Measure off the amount that you wish to leave square. Mark the blank on at least two sides. Make another mark about 1/8" to 1/4" farther from the end that you wish to leave square.

  2. With the long point of your skew make a slight "v" cut being careful not to chip the corners. Go back and forth making the "v" deeper until you see the "v" reach the bottom of the "ghost". (The blur of see through corners will appear to be a solid)

  1. Finish a slightly rounded cut from line where you want the transition to begin to the point where the turning will be round. I prefer the short point down for this cut but you may use the long point if you feel more comfortable.

  2. If the other end will also have a square section, repeat steps 1 - 4.

  1. Remove the corners between the two transitions and turn the rest of the details.

If you do loose a corner by getting too aggressive, you won't have wasted your time turning a the details. It is always a good idea to have a few more blanks than the number of finished pieces that you will need. Stuff happens!! :-))

Reply to
Marshall Gorrow

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...snip...

Also, (many of you, close your eyes) -- you may be more comfortable making the cut with a parting tool. If you sneak up on the square part so that you are removing very little wood you can get an excellent surface with a properly sharp parting tool.

In any event, many Americans find the gouge to be much more friendly in this situation. You can try every tool you have as you come up the leg or whatever and make the decision on the fly.

Bill

Reply to
Bill Rubenstein

See, I knew my inexperience would cause me to miss something in the question. I thought he was just asking about going from a square billet to a round one. Upon rereading it, I see what you're saying. And, of course, I have no help for the guy hehe.

Mike

Reply to
Mike in Mystic

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