I am very new to turning, but I realize that a sharp edge on gouges and skews is imperative. However, what is the appropriate bevel angle that one should strive to attain. A veteran turner in a local club, demonstrated sharpening technique to me, using my tools, and I haven't been able to use the skew tools since without encountering dig-in. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
"Greydog" skrev i melding news: snipped-for-privacy@adelphia.com...
Sharpening angles are very individual things. Just look at the mass of different books and videos and advice floating around (when you get around to it:-).
Of course there is a fault on your perception of technique when you get dig-ins.
On the other hand, you have to make do with what you actually know, so my advice to you is:
Sharpen the tools back to what you like, and try to think a little about what caused the dig-ins from time to time.
There is something to learn here.
Bjarte
Concentrate on tool technique. Razor sharp and consistent bevels aren't as important as how you present the edge to the wood. The ABC mnemonic - Anchor the tool firmly on the rest, place the heel of the Bevel on the work, swing the handle to start the Cut. This works with all tools, on spindle or faceplate work, and is least likely to make a catch, especially when that other rule for all tools - keep the toolrest close - is followed.
There's a lot of money spent on grinders and jigs, of which there are many, to produce a number of different grinds.
Obvious, given the number of turners who go from grinder to wood that razor sharp is not necessary. Also obvious, given the number of grinds and angles used by turners, that they are not important. Especially obvious when you realize that the different contours of the turning will make adjustments in the cutting angle necessary.
Where it all intersects is where the tool meets the wood, or in the case of interrupted turning, wood meets the tool.
I say again, even if the tool is sharp, you cannot necessarily cut wood. You may end up lifting fibers, where even the sharpest tool will ultimately result in tearout, or its heavy bite brother, the catch. That's why when you plane, carve, or turn, the rules of edges remain constant, cut downhill, so you take advantage of the support of underlying fibers, and move the tool at a skew, or in the case of turning, allow the wood to pass the fixed edge at a skew angle to get an easier cut.
Th>
While tool technique is unquestionably important, it
I don't care how consistent your bevel is, (which actually dictates how the tool can be presented in the first place.) if the tool isn't sharp, you're not cutting diddly. OTOH, you can have a different bevel every time you sharpen, and as long as the tool is sharp you can still cut wood. While tool technique is unquestionably important, it is no more important, IMO, than using a sharp tool. Using dull tools can adversely affect learning good tool technique.
-- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. <
September 11, 2001 - Never Forget
Addendum.
Thought of this while smoothing spoons on the horse. Consider that when working with a knife in areas of difficult grain, you get smoother cuts by the same method as on the lathe, increasing the rate of edge draw across the cut as you slow the forward progress. For best, reduce shaving thickness by changing angle of attack, as well. Another example of the same sharpness producing a superior surface by proper presentation.
Same when cutting across end grain with my spokeshave (LV low-angle, and a sweetheart), you minimize tear by increasing slice rate, narrowing the shaving. Same edge, different results. Of course with planes and shaves you have a fixed depth limit, while on the lathe you can vary it, taking thicker shavings with some degradation, thinner for better surface. Same edge.
Then there's shear scraping, which I'm still not sure I understand, preferring to cut rather than use a scraper. There. too, the same edge, presented at a different angle, is supposed to produce different results.
We have a free sharpening video available on request email me snipped-for-privacy@woodcut-tools.com
-- Cheers Ken Port Tool Designer
Support from the tool (hand?) rest counts for more than bevels. Its what allows interrupted edge cutting, where an attempt to keep the bevel in contact would lead to disaster. Position of the tool rest with skew chisels is also important. Safer skewing is done with the toolrest higher. Even safer is done, in my experience, with a straight chisel held at a skew by the operator. What some call a beading tool, or its thicker cousin the Bedan is a good example.
The reason a skew catch is more dramatic than a gouge catch is that the downward motion of the tool imparted by the initial catch drags the extended edge into the work, where with a gouge curves naturally to clear. That's why I'd rather plane with a chisel, and why the higher rest, which allows planing at 11- 12 o'clock rather than 10 o'clock is my preferred position.
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