I have a Sears "Professional" 15" variable speed lathe.
Model 351.217.156
I've had it for about 4 years, but to be honest I've used my small Jet Mini lathe a lot more.
I've turned maybe 5 bowls, a few wands and other spindle turning on it.
So, today I put on another wand, turn the power switch on, and it's going at full tilt (2000 rpm). So, while it's running, it start turning it down to 400 (it's slow speed), partway down the knob feels loose, and when I remove the cover, I see that the belt is loose, and if I turn it down to 400 it's so loose the spindle stops entirely, even though the motor is still spinning at full speed.
How easily is this fixed? I knew that a sears lathe would not last as long as others, but with light use I figured it would last a LOT longer.
Phil if your lathe has the "reeves drive" setup, than you probably have the sheaves not moving back and forth, you will have to get some light oil on the shafts and try to move the sheaves, the lubricant that was on there is either gone or gotten hard and gummed in those 4 years, so get it clean and lubricate it, that should be all that's needed IMO. Just don't get a lot of oil/grease on there after you have it working again, check your owners manual, a dry graphite lubricant might do it.
Do a search on my 'ID' which is 'pankr003' and you should find a series of replies for when I asked the same type of question. I pulled the top pulley apart which I hope you can avoid to get it to work since it has a heavy spring holding it in. The people who said it needed lubrication were correct but I could not get the lubrication under the pulley without taking it out.
Well, I now understand how these things work. And I got the top pulley free finally, cleaned it out, lubricated, etc. But I'm thinking I need one of those "mechanical gear pullers" if I ever want to get this thing back together (yes, I had to take it apart, as it needed more than just a "little" lubrication to get it loose.
I was not strong enough to do what you did so I built a strange jig with two boards. One end may have been like board you used to push the spring and 'cap' back on. The other end was cut to go in back of the other pulley and around the shaft. I had three bolts and wing nuts in the boards. I could then tighten the nuts to pull the boards together and pull the spring tight. I wore a face shield since I thought the whole thing might fly apart a foot from my face. But the contraption did work for squeezing the spring tight enough so I could get the ring pin (not sure if that term is correct) off and back on. Perhaps 4 bolts would be safer. There is a lot of pressure on the spring. I am not sure if this method is a good idea but it did work. Some sort of gear puller might be safer.
You will be happier in the future if you make this cleaning operation a part of scheduled maintenance, It is SO much easier to do BEFORE it's stuck. DAMHIKT.
Agreed, but HOW? I can't see ANY way of cleaning/lubricating it without taking it apart again, and that's a major pain, especially to get it back together.
Actually, I used a board with a 1 3/8" hole, and a belt clamp looped around each end of the board. Problem with a gear puller is that it uses a central 'screw' to apply pressure, which wouldn't work in this case.
"Unknown" wrote: Agreed, but HOW? (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Well, I have zero experience with your lathe--maybe someone who owns one can chime in. But on my Jet 1236, which had a Reeves drive with the same "syndrome," I would just wipe the pulley shaft, run the speed up and down to reach as much of the surface as possible, and apply a little *WAX.* I believe wax will help it slide without the tendency to attract wood dust. Hope this helps.
Even if you do have to take it apart, it's going to be a lot easier if you do it before things are stuck. Hope this helps.
I happen to have a real sh**load of experience with this lathe, I own one and it was the single biggest mistake I ever made when I put the money down for it. I won't go into all the specifics but here is what works for me.
To remove the pulley, get a threaded 5/16" rod long enough to reach through the headstock. On one end, screw on a nut just enough that the rod threads start to show. Use a pair of pliers and scrunch up the threads so the nut never comes off. Get a big flat washer, 5/16" ID, 1
1/2" to 2" diameter. Drill 2 holes...ah crap. It's too complicated to explain in words. I will post photos of the tool I use to remove the damn thing on my website tonight. Sears, I found out, actually reef the thing off the way you guys have described. It seems there's not a brain in the group there that could figure out this simple set up!
As to the lubrication, the upper pulley is the one that needs the most help. While you have it off using your new tool, look at the keyway cut into the hole. Measure, approximately, 3 equal spaces around the hole and drill 3 holes right through. Put the pulley back on. CAUTION, it has been suggested you oil the shafts. That is what you will be doing but beware that if you put enough oil on, it will splash onto the drive belt and I don't need to tell you that a nice film of oil between a belt and a pulley might not yield the grip you wanted! Can you spell s.l.i.p.?
Check my site tonight. I'll take pictures today and post them under ...mmmh, let's see...Craftsman Heartache! That's appropriate. Let me know if you have more questions.
I may someday be brave enough to take it apart again and drill those oil holes you discussed. A nice idea. So..... What do you do when the flimsy arm that tightens the tailstock in place snaps off? (Once this lathe is truly dead, I'm going to get a jet, or maybe really spend the money and get a Nova, no more sears)
I have had the same problem. The arm snapped off and left the threads into the tailstock piece. I used a drill to drill enough of a hole in the threaded part to insert a screw and using CA glue jammed the screw into the hole. I then unscrewed the whole thing out. The arm I just ground down slowly until it was the right size to re-thread and put it back in. It still does keep coming loose and I have to tighten it up every so often.
Like you, I'm waiting for the thing to die completely before getting a real lathe. Purchasing this unit was a bad mistake.
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