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To Spalt or not to Spalt that is the Question

Spalting. Oh what fun. You cut yourself several logs , split them, endseal and lay them down to dry. But whilst your asleep, not looking they start to spalt, without your permission. That lovely milky white bowl you plan when the logs dry? Forget it, the Spalt continues it has other plans.

I have found and read several articles on the spalting process, how to kick-start it. The facts that though little fungi like eating cellulose etc.. But it made me wonder, how to stop it, how to finish it.

I recently turned an 'object' from some of what we believed to be spalted Ash which had been part seasoned, it initially started as a hollowing exercise to play with my new tool, but it rapidly deteriorated into an examination of finishing

This is a picture of the beast about 8 inch across

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I have tended to apply walnut oil as a finish of late, with a final waxing) I like the glow it gives to light woods :). I have been using the cheap walnut oil from our local supermarket ( we discussed suitability a few months back) Seems to work fine, not gone rancid yet etc.

The problem I see is either how to stop the spalting, or is there a finish that can be applied that effectively stops the spalting.

My first thought was to apply sanding sealer but then as the one I have is cellulose based, will it just provide more food ? ( if it is more food could you use its application to create tasty areas, and hence your own patterns / designs?)

What about Shellac sanding sealer, would that stop the Spalting, or even my walnut oil?

What is are essential ingredients to stop the spalting process?

The manager of my local store said he had heard of soapy water, does it work how is it applied, does it need to be anti bacterial etc. ?

I would be interested to know how others control the process, or if you have found a weblink to an article on how to stop it :)

Reply to
John
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Reply to
robo hippy

In message , robo hippy writes

So basically there are a few options

Leave the wood to naturally dry, at 4-6 inches thick the spalting could go a little too far. The existing spalting has occurred in the last 6 months, and I assume the rate of spalting multiplies?

Turn the object as thin as possible to reduce the drying time Then finish when dry. (I have turned a couple of blanks for ornamental bowls and left the walls 1 inch thick)

Turn to finish dimensions and live with the distortion that will likely occur during the remaining drying time

Accelerate the drying, maybe microwave? Would this also kill the spores?

Reply to
John

John, My experience with spalting shows that most stops when I turn the bowl to 1 inch thick. At that point the moisture in the bowl begins and continues to drop to a level below that which spalting requires to continue. Once dried, I finish turn the bowl and add any number of oil finishes. The bowl is then buffed and ready for use. I've not experienced spalting continuing once the bowl was turned. JD (Kentucky)

Reply to
JD

In message , JD writes

Hi JD, sounds like I am heading in the right direction then. I have about a cubic yard of Ash which has started to spalt, so plenty to part turn.

I guess with Ash having its a low moisture content wood in the first place it should dry quicker.

Interestingly the only items affected are the half logs with bark which were sealed with endseal. All the Ash from the same source that was de-barked and cut into regular shaped blanks have shown no signs at all of spalting. So I guess the fungi was probably resident in the bark

Reply to
John

What sort of effect are you getting from the spalt John. Some spalting leves the wood gray and unappealing but some leaves black lines and colours which look great in a turning.

Reply to
Tom Storey

In message , Tom Storey writes

This is an example of the spalting I have been getting, which seems to be affecting all the Ash

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This was one of my first attempts at hollowing under the edge to any extent.

I used the Rolly Munro Hollowing Tool. Which to me seems to work far better with wood that is not too dry

The finish is Walnut oil, and a top coat of wax

Reply to
John

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