Tool Rest

Inside below, so your tool exits into air at the end of the cut. Outside (convex) above, for the same reason.

If you get too high the force tangent to the point of contact will kick you away on convex, too low, and it will kick you away on concave. Both safely into air rather than wood.

You never want to get below the wood with the edge of your tool any more than is necessary to lift a shaving.

Hi Jerry Take a minute here OK, draw a circle , big enough so you can see better, now draw horizontal line at centre, now mark a point above the horizontal line on the inside of the circle, (read that again) than do it, now imagine this is where your gouge is and you have a catch, OK, the gouge will go down vertical more or less, so draw a vertical line from the point where, your gouge was, and you will see that the gouge will get out in the air, agree ??. Now we do the same thing but the spot where your gouge is, we place below the horizontal line,(read again, and mark it) and now you have a catch OK, your gouge is going down, draw that line, vertically down from where you your gouge was, and you will see the gouge is going down INTO the wood, do you see it ?? YOU HAVE NOW A MAYOR CATCH. Hollowing on the inside, keep your scraper/gouge ABOVE the centre line. I have a few photo albums with a couple of pictures that show clearly where the tool is in the bowl while hollowing, my hands are not always where I normally would have them, this was to show a certain "mickey mouse" a few things. So have a look and go back at it, just remember that turning fresh new wood is a lot easier than dry oak, and I think if you like to practice, get some green wood and have fun.

Correct.

wrote: (clip) now imagine this is where your gouge is and you have a catch, (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Hey, "Other Leo," I learned this as "the 90 degree rule," and it applies whether your tool rest is set high or low. Never let the tool angle become more than 90 degrees to the moving wood. This true on the inside or outside of the bowl, and applies regardless of toolrest height. Your "circular reasoning*" can be used to prove this as well.

Hi other Leo

Sometimes we have to keep it simple, Leo, as they say, KISS, you do know why, no Mickey Mouse work here ;-)))

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

For inside work, George says below while LVDL says above. Hmmmmm.

Not difficult. You catch into the wood, which is why you want air there if you slip up so you can't take too big a bite. What's past the gouge is will push into the air below the tool at the point tangent if you try to slip in.

Sorry the parallax, but you have to take the help when you can.

Thanks guys for all the info and pics. My biggest problem is the cheepo tools & hard wood The bad-- bent one goulge broke two The Good --- going to Woodcraft for "New & Shinny tools in the mornig , ya I'm hooked. Thanks again Jerry

Hey Jerry--

Save some of that tool money for some lessons!

Technique is a HUGE part of avoiding catches, and getting a smooth job.

Good tool + bad technique guarantees a bad job.

So-so tool in experienced hands can generate fine work.

Look on the first year's projects as "learning opportunities."

Have fun--safely

Old Guy

You can buy videos and learn effectively if you don't want to take a class.