turning cedar

There are all types of cedar. The only type I have turned is the eastern arromatic. It is kind of brittle, but it turns ok. It will develop cracks as you look at it so get the CA handy. Some of it can have some very beautiful grain patterns particularly down near the ground. The shop will not have any moths for a few days.

I've heard of respiratory problems with turning cedar.

I did a large flat bowl/tray constructed from a 4x4 fence post I got at HD a couple years ago. I cut it into sections ran it through my planer to get smooth edges for gluing and then glued the sections together with gorilla glue. I turned it leaving a good inch or so of thickness in the bottom and enough edge to catch any water (My wife uses it for a potted plant that sits on stereo speakers.)

Then I sealed the inside with 2 part epoxi and finished the outside with tung oil.

It has kept its color mostly because it is > as a newbie to turning (i've been turning about 6 months) a friend gave me

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Hi, I've turned some western red cedar. It is a lot like pine without the pitch to gum everything up. It usually has a good grain figure with good contrast between rings. There is enough difference between the summer and winter growth hardness that you can feel it in your tool. The fast growth areas are soft and will need SHARP tools and a light touch to prevent tear out. When sanding, use a backing for your sandpaper to prevent uneven surfaces. SInce it's free, just have at it and have fun.

Ken Moon Webberville, TX.

Two referenced western red, one eastern red. There are also a few others. Interestingly, none are cedars.

Big thing is that they're all loaded with insecticide and fungicide, so you really want to work in that well-ventilated area. Eastern white works like western red or Port Orford. It's prone to jagged collapse of the harder late growth into the softer early growth. You also want the lightest possible bevel rub on this stuff, or you'll have an area of compression that you'll have to use 100 grit on, even after setting up with water.

Eastern red, or "aromatic" is great stuff to work with. It's much more consistent in composition, and so full of oil that a clean cut shines. I really haven't observed the heat checking others report, but exercise caution in your heat-building activities, and it shouldn't be insurmountable.

None of them eagerly accept a finish, least of all eastern red. Lots of resins and extractives to work back through a finish. I use shellac, and that or lacquer, something which doesn't use turps as a thinner, would be best. Traditional practice before resin-setting in kilns was to seal with shellac prior to varnish.

There is also Alaskan Yellow Cedar, turns nicely. Often has very fine grain (200 rings per inch)

As has been mentioned there are several types. I found some in a parking lot at our local Sam's Club. (free wood = good wood) about 10" dia and 30" in length.. It was very well dried. Keep your tools sharp (you do that anyway, right?) as the wood I got was rather soft. You may wish to wear some dust mask cause the dust is rather fine when sanding. Very beautiful when finished. I particuarly liked the bits of yellow that came through. Wish I had some more.

Can't speak for other types, but I've turned Spanish cedar, and if you have occasion to turn some of this, you should >absolutely< wear a dust mask during all phases of working it. This is the hands-down, FUNKIEST- tasting wood I have ever turned!! UGH!! The dust is downright nasty and will ruin everything you eat and drink for at least a day.

-- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. <

September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

I believe I read that it was in the Pacific NW red cedar mills that the carcinogenic risks of woodworking was first identified. The millworkers were breathing a lot of airborne cedar dust.

Yeah.............wear a mask. Barry

As others have mentioned, red cedar dust is pretty awful stuff, especially if you're allergic to it, as many people are. So wear a mask and long sleeves and make sure the shop is ventilated. Also, make the last cut is clean as you can make it and *start* with 220 sandpaper, because it's very hard to get sanding marks out of cedar, especially on endgrain. Oil finishes look very nice.

Thanks to all for their comments on turning cedar! I've got my dust mask, long sleeve shirt and ventalation set up. Now to TURN TURN TURN Thanks again George Klein