turning wine bottle stoppers

Hi Shawn I would let the dowel come right through, makes for a stronger stopper, cork might break off if the dowel is in only part way, and I would use CA glue, to glue the cork on, you could even use that also for a finish.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Shawn Wils> Hi,

You can get Bolt mounted corks from lee valley. Bit on the expensive side but you won,t need a dowel ... Then you need the metal insert to mount the bolt into the wood top. At least you can give away or sell them with a spare screwable cork replacement. What do most wood cork turners do? Glue, Screw, Dowel, Etc

Have fun Keith

I prefer the metal stoppers over the cork ones. Maybe not as authentic but they are more durable and not as much hassle to assemble.

Most of the catalogs have a chrome plated model with black rubber seals and a rather sharp point. They do not make a leak proof seal. Woodcraft sells one that is smaller in diameter and uses neoprene type gasket that will make a tight seal so the bottle can be placed back in a wine rack or laid down in the refrigerator. I finish most of mine with HUT polish sticks while on the lathe. They have been a very popular item with family and friends.

Cheers,

Lem Bledsoe

tube socks?? out of birch or maple???

:-)

Hey all,

Does anyone know a sourse for the corks used in winestoppers called "The Corker"?

They seem to be of superior quality and have no holes or voids.

Thanks,

Phil Axtell Central Florida Woodturners Space Coast Woodturners Orange County (CA) Woodturners

_groan_ :o)

Shawn

Hi Lem,

Thanks for the info.

I looked at those at Lee Valley, but couldn't bring myself to pay $10 for a glorified cork. Plus I (1) prefer the look of cork and (2) don't have a tap set. Lee valley also had normal corks with chrome tips and chrome pieces that fit between the turned wood and cork. I liked those, but again, no tap and don't want to pay $10 x 3 when I'm not even sure how the turnings will turn out (in addition to being a newbie, I also lack a chuck so I'm going to try friction fitting dowel into a block of wood on the faceplate. My last friction fitting effort (ash shot glass bottom) turned out a bit lopsided. I could not get the thing centered for the life of me...) Basically, I'm considering this a learning experience and hoping it'll turn out well enough to be a Christmas gift...

I Googled HUT polish sticks today. They look like exactly what I need (simple and they seemed to look good). Lee Valley doesn't seem to have 'em. Any Nova Scotians out there know a local source? I think it might be a bit late for mail order....

Thanks, Shawn

You might consider saving a bit of time by chucking a length of 3/8 steel rod, drilling a 3/8 hole in your blank and jam chucking it on the rod. If it wants to slip, wet the inside of the hole and it will be fine. Your use of the bottles as clamps is really clever!

Kip Powers Rogers, AR

Well, that's two votes for HUT. I'll see if I can find them locally. The tailstock is probably a good idea (though I just have a cup center to fit it and a live center that my father-in-law will try to machine for me sometime to fit my threaded tailstock). I hadn't considered using it. Thanks for the advice. I'll get SWMBO to help empty a couple wine bottles this weekend (rum counts as wine, right?) ;oP

Thanks again, Shawn

Hmmm... The water is a good idea. I just tried jam chucking on both ends with 1/4" dowel and it broke on me. I wrapped a loose end in duct tape, but water is probably easier. The duct tape had a tendency to bunch up.

Thanks, Shawn

Why 1/4"? The only corks I have ever seen have 3/8" holes bored in them. The extra diameter more than doubles the cross sectional area of the dowel, hence the strength of the dowel.