I've been buying walnut oil for my turnings and on my last trip to the grocer. They had walnut oil with 10% vitamin E for half the price of
100% walnut oil. ANyone used the with Vitamin E version?-TH
I've been buying walnut oil for my turnings and on my last trip to the grocer. They had walnut oil with 10% vitamin E for half the price of
100% walnut oil. ANyone used the with Vitamin E version?-TH
I think the vitamin E minimizes the appearance of stretch marks in the wood from over-tightening your expanding 4 jaw chuck.
Jr
Anti-oxidant, isn't it? You want oxidation to cure the oil.
Isn't that sold for cooking purposes?
Max
Hah! Got pretty good snort out that one. Now if it will just help repair the damage done to the fibers by cutting with a dull gouge or over sanding...
Robert
Unchararcteristic of you, George.
No worries about the antioxidants keeping the oil from curing, unless of course the tocopherols stop the free radicals from aging the oil in a destructive manner.
The tocopherals found in natural curing vitamin E are a water soluble esterized oil found in many nuts, olive, soybeans, and some other plants. Synthetic viatmin E (most likely in this oil) is found in the labs of manufacturer, and although almost worthless in the eyes of many researchers as a health supplement or treatment, is still water soluble.
The vitamin E shouldn' hurt a thing in regards to an oil finish.
It will NOT be the same as the Mahoney oil, though.
Robert
"George" wrote: Anti-oxidant, isn't it? You want oxidation to cure the oil. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I don't believe walnut oil is a "drying oil" like linseed oil or tung oil, which means it does not polymerize by reacting with oxygen. If you were kidding, my apologies for jumping in like this.
Wipe some on a piece of glass and let it cure. You'll notice it's clearer than tung, lighter in color than linseed if you do comparison wipes.
Don't know how to put tongue in cheek in chatroom-ese. Nonetheless, having bought some with calcium propionate or some such in it on the store shelves, I learned that oxidation is what others call "spoilage." Never cured.
. . . and you can cook with it.
Max
Should have known you were funnin'. I am bad about not putting the smiley faced winks at the end of mine, too.
And those oils NEVER will cure, either. Nothing in there to make them cure.
I may or may not be correct in assuming that someone is trying to mimic Mike Mahoney's Walnut oil finish, but the stuff at Walgreens or at your local supermarket won't do it.
I remember a group conversation with Stuart Batty (pretty sure it was him) when he was down here on a demo, and he said that he though they heat treated Mike's walnut oil he sells in a very specific way, and only add one ingredient of some sort to make his product cure.
And by the way for anyone still following this thread, Boiled Linseed Oil isn't actually boiled. Like most tung oil, it is infused with metallic dryers that cause it to cure. And like most finishes, both these oil products are not used in the kitchen as cooking ingredients, and are sold as products, not a ingredients. Kinda of like saying you want a "Coke" when you want some kind of carbonated drink. So you can never be 100% sure exactly what the ingredients are, or their percentages.
Robert
wrote: (clip) And by the way for anyone still following this thread, Boiled Linseed Oil isn't actually boiled. Like most tung oil, it is infused with metallic dryers that cause it to cure. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ The term "boiled" comes from the fact that the oil is heated to dissolve the driers. The other kind is called "raw," and it also dries by oxidation, but much more slowly.
Learn something new every day. I didn't know they heated the oil at all, I just assumed that it was some kind of metal that had a compatible carrier solvent.
As for the raw stuff, I haven't had much luck with it drying on its own. I have done OK with it in some homebrews, but that is because it is mixed with miscible solvents that thin it to the point it dries more quickly.
Leo - I know for years until the days of modern chemistry they used psyllium/flax as the source of linseed oils. Some still do. As much finishing as I do, I don't use BLO or LO for much anymore due to "the need for speed".
Do you know what BLO is made from now? Same stuff? Blend?
Robert
snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:
(clipped for brevity)
Googling on "walnut oil finish' turned up some interesting observations regarding walnut oil.
"Unlike some vegetable oils, walnut oil eventually will polymerize to a hardened finish, and it contains no potentially harmful metallic driers."
PS -- I am in full agreement to skip the walnut oil with anti-oxidants added -- the walnut oil needs to oxidize.
Yep, those commercials that promise smooth ageless young skin from topical vitamin E keep me laughing. FWIW, walnut oil warmed in the sun will cure to the touch in about three days when things are fairly dry. You can peel it off the surface and discover it's tacky underneath, but it does work well for medium coloration and a bit of water resistance. Linseed can be boiled, as in having oxygen bubbled through it (at 20%) until it actually begins to gel.
As to what BLO is, it's Linseed - flax - from which linen is made. I remember the beautiful fields of flax in North Dakota from back when. Then there's the flexible gel version used with canvas to make linoleum, a flexible, durable floor covering.
Bill - if it takes weeks, to me, that means it never cures. If it takes more than a week, sadly... to me it never cures. I don't have the time, temperment, or inclination to let things like that go on too long.
I have marked those links, though. There is some really good info on them.
I was suspicious when I read George's post, as he usually doesn't miss. That's why I didn't really sound off. HE WAS KIDDING. The antioxidants properties in vitamin E work only upon live, organic organims. Here is how vitamin E is used:
Mechanically, it does not affect the molecular activity of the Walnut oil when catalysing as the polymeric reaction to oxygen (mechanical) is not the same thing as killing free radicals on an organic level.
BTW, further reading of the benefits of vitamin E as an emolient seem to be no better than any other oil as when it isn't directly ingested as to flow into the bloodstream it cannot function as a killer of free radicals.
Robert
snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote: m.
Actually I had in mind the calcium propionate, which is, I believe added to improve product stability in the bottle.
At any rate, I've had reasonable success using walnut oil on my pens. I apply it generously, wipe the excess and then go straight to CA without waiting for the oil to dry. Overnight is the most it ever gets and I actually think that I get better results if I apply the CA immediately.
YMMV, void where prohibited, and so on.
Bill
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