Ways and Means

On Sat, 12 May 2007 20:58:41 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote:You said it like mud lost me on the third line hahah this getting old ..

Slighty more than mud, but almost as thick! Took a re-read or two, but I think I have the gist of it.

How is it working for you? *Of course* I've never had this happen to

*me*, but if it had, I might be tempted to always finish turn the inside first, and leave enough material on the outside to correct for any re-chucking that might happen. :)

A picture says more than a thousand words...;-) I hope you can give us a picture, your message sure made me curious!

Gerard

Hi Gerald

I think you could use a setup like that, but I don't think you will get your blank real true this way, or to how true I would like my turning to run, the tolerance you need in order to move your jig and the flex in it will potentially have the work piece still off some and that doubles of course wen it turns around, you could get close pretty quick and than final adjust. My standard adjustment procedure when I have turned a blank that has been turned on the outside, and than flip over to do the inside turned, is like this. I will try to hold the piece as good as possible on my chuck while I tighten up the chuck just enough to hold it. I will than hand turn the spindle while I watch for any wobble, sometimes I'm lucky and than tighten the chuck up farther so I can start turning, but usually I will I have to adjust the wood, I will set my toolrest very close to the side of the wood, and carefully turn the piece around, noting what area is close and how much of a difference there is between the one side and the other, then I will turn the lathe so the closest side is next to the toolrest, I then use a mallet and hit the face of the wood on the other side, I hit it towards the chuck, and then turn the lathe and check again the trueness, I might have to repeat this a couple of times, but I can get the wood to turn true within a few thousands of an inch, tighten the chuck and start turning. If for some reason the piece does get moved off true, I will basically do the above procedure to get back to true, or as close as possible, for by this time the work piece is usually not round anymore. And at that time I might have to use the mallets handle to knock against the inside, to straighten out the piece. This might seem like a lot of work, but it is really quick and straight forward, anyway, it seems like that to me.

On May 12, 8:58 pm, Gerald Ross wrote:

SNIP

The work isn't usually circular, nor the rim perfectly perpendicular to the axis of rotation after hollowing. The cross-grain bowl bulges a bit across and above the center. I don't go back to re-true these things, because they're only noticeable when turning, not static.

I use smooth dovetail holds, which find a best fit circular pretty easily, and hold the piece securely against the nose of the jaws at the bottom of the mortise. They're so easy to work with that I occasionally re-mount pieces I'm not happy with for make-or-break retuning, or peel the finish off with my gouge to get a sandable surface on pieces where I don't like it.

It's hold, not grip that I'm working with, and I have to be careful not to allow sawdust inside the mortise when I reverse, but my pieces run true and between centers until they're at their lightest. I then make sure the hold is snug and true before I release the center support.

I use the tapered nose of the center into the pin chuck hole on every piece. If you have one of those Morse taper mounts for a chuck, you can put it in the tail and chuck up a tapered disk of appropriate size to help align your piece while applying alignment pressure to the shoulder of the tenon or the bottom of the mortise. I use similar to keep goblets running true on my NOVA live center. Bolt it on to the tapered insert, and it helps keep things stable while the stem is reduced.

4e78 wrote: (clip) usually I will I have to adjust the wood, I will set my toolrest very close to the side of the wood, and carefully turn

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ You have given me a perfect opportunity to describe again the system I use--I think it is better for centering than a toolrest. I have a laser pointer mounted on a 43 linkage. I aim the beam at the surface of the wood, and as I rotate the bowl slowly, I watch the spot falling below it. When I get it to be a constant semicircle, I think I am within a couple of thousandths. If I can't get a constant semicircle, it is because the bowl is out of round, and then I balance the big sides and the small sides.

You live in a different world, Leo. Best average is a well-known principle in the world outside your mind. Jointers, planes, anything tapered, including dovetails....

If you know how to cut, the tail and even a poppet are no hindrance. Thousands of years of turners know this.

Oh well, have a nice day.

"Leo Lichtman" wrote: (clip) I have a laser pointer mounted on a 43 linkage. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Delete "43." That's what happens when the cat runs across the keyboard.

Whatever untapered world Leo V. lives in, he sure knows how to cut both wood and metal. He turns some beautiful work and does it over and over again with many innovations. I for one am glad he shares his knowledge and experience in his friendly manner without forcing it on us. Don't know the Dutch word for thanks else I'd try to use it now.

As for 'ole 43' aka Leo L. He also knows what he's doing around a turning shop and elsewhere and shares his expertise with us with style, his laser sharp wit .....and aplomb. Thanks '43'.

Gerald, Thanks for posting your ideas. I'm working on figuring out your ways and means, but in the meantime send some mud down our way. Anything but this parched dust. Looks like rain up there today, but the hell of it is we ain't up there. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

"Arch" wrote: (clip)As for 'ole 43' aka Leo L. (clip)Thanks '43'. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Thanks, Arch--I'll try to "esplain" this to my cat, to whom my keyboard must feel like a resilient doormat. One thing I WON'T do is stop her from going where she wants to go.

Thanks Arch. Can you get the alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking newsgroup? I have posted pictures there.

No rain here. We got a little thunder a couple of weeks ago, but no showers.

Hi other Leo

You say again, I don't remember it, so thank you.

If I had a laser pointer (I DO) and had a magnetic base and linkage, (I do have the magnetic base) then I probably would try (and I might do this one day) to use the laser pointer, without the "43" ;-))), I'm sure that would work to get things centered just fine, however I do have the toolrest already there, and do not have to get any other piece of equipment out and setup, so I think that given the way you are doing it, and I can see that, that, could work just fine, I still would go for a (to me) time tested way of doing it, Leo you know what they say, there's more than one way to skin a cat, and KISS is my way if at all possible. Thanks for giving me/us an other way of doing something, It does get crowded up-there with ideas, ( just like in my shop, I do know I have something like that but I just can't remember where I put it ) and time and again they do come in handy, if not for me, than to help out someone else, Thank you.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

the

Consider the difference between using a strap wrench and a pipe wrench on your oil filter. Not a difficult analogy.

Hi George, Remember my episode with taking my belt off and using it as a strap wrench while drilling a tall lamp? My shorts fell off and the studio (garage) door was open to the busy street. :)

Strap and pipe wrench analogies aside, I once loosened oil filters with a faceted plastic filter wrench. I no longer change oil. Can't bend over and if I could, I couldn't find the fitting on my 'newer' PU. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote: (clip) The mechanic next door asks why people who break down open the hood of the car? (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That kames it easier for the tow truck driver to spot the car he is looking for.

When your hood is up, the cars behind you know not to honk.

If you are an attractive lady, it gives all the men an excuse to stop and offer to help, when they really can't.

Hi Arch

Arch I did reply to your post late last night, I don't know what happened to it, probably chasing it's own tail in never-never land.

Thank you (dank U ) for your flattering words, Arch I have been very fortunate in my life, I did grow up in a different time and place, my background and experience is not just everyday, and my look at things do reflect that, just a natural thing. Turning wood has always and still is a love affair, never been a money thing, and selling my work is just a way to make room for newer turnings, though not cheap. Trying to help out others just feels good, and I also receive back from others like you, Arch, I do not have the only answer or all the knowledge, and I appreciate also the time people like you have put in to keep this old wrec going.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

I quit when I opened the hood and didn't see anything I recognized. HOW does this thing work??

Had a 62 Chevy with a straight six. Used to climb into the engine compartment when tuning it. Not quite enough room for a tent ...