Where can i buy

Where can i buy ANCHORSEAL in the uk, or does it go by another name ove

hear. Can anyone surgest anything else for sealing the ends of logs, that avaiable in the uk

Thanks Mar

Reply to
Sniperborg
Loading thread data ...

I'd like to know the same for Israel, Thanks! I can't seem to find anything of the kind.

Reply to
meshel

Mark, I have tried searching on the net for Anchorseal before and no-one appears to supply over here.

Nevertheless may I suggest your using "End Seal" from Chestnut Products or if you have access to heat, melt ordinary wax (from discarded candle stubs)and dip the ends of the logs into the hot wax for several seconds, this is very effective. (Dependant on the diameters of course) Failing that any oil based paint can be used, if you have odd tins lying around somewhere this is an ideal way to make use of it rather than throwing it away!

In my experience (15) years, I have used the "End Seal" for the majority but the hot wax is by far the best but please be careful.

Regards, Peter Charles Fagg Freshwater, Isle of Wight,

formatting link
Each can do but little! But if each DID that little, ALL would be done!

Reply to
Peter Charles Fagg

It's water-emulsion wax. In the US military it was extremely important to show buff marks on floors, so it was used in preference to acrylics, which could not be buffed - yours might be dumb enough to believe the same. You may also find it at janitorial supply houses. Since the wax contains less solids than the Anchorseal, two coats advised.

Of course, if you took canning wax, water, a non-ionic surfactant to keep it in suspension, and a bit of alcohol to keep it from growing mold, combined the ingredients in a big blender and whipped it to a foam ... you'd have an angry spouse, but a suitable substitute.

Reply to
George

Thanks for the replys.

The old paint and candle wax seems good while i clear up old stock Then the end seal will come into play

Mar

Reply to
Sniperborg

I have been useing PVA. Saw an article on Bert Marsh ,I think it was, and he used it on his rough turnings.I have used it on blanks as well.You can also water it down. Just another idea, hope it is of some use. Michael

Reply to
skjerstad

The water-emulsion wax over here in the UK is sold by Mobil under the name Mobilicer C.

Reply to
Mark Hancock

Reply to
Sniperborg

Mark,

The product "End Seal" Peter referred to is available from Chestnut Products here in the UK, they also have overseas distributors so it may also be available in Israel as well.

If you look at

formatting link
you can see the End Seal, it's simply painted onto the ends of freshly cut timber and slows down the evaporation process to help prevent the ends splitting. Regards....Mike Swain RPT
formatting link

Reply to
Crewood

Your results are interesting. I have a friend in the lumber business who buys and sells a great deal of exotics. When he receives them from wherever, they are invariably treated with the hot wax method, rather than with Anchorseal. Sadly, I have seen him loose thousands of dollars worth of inventory to severe checking, during the hot summer months (and by hot, I mean 80-100 degrees F).

If he was able to scrape off the wax and anchorseal the pieces before they started to check, he was able to save those that were, but otherwise, the hot-waxed pieces showed an alarming tendency to crack, particularly if there was the slightest scratch in the wax. AAMOF, you could see checks radiating out from scratches in the wax.

My personal theory is that the Anchorseal and similar products work better because, being an emulsion of wax, rather than straight wax, they work on a microscopic level, better filling pores before the water evaporates and inhibiting rapid drying, unlike thicker hot wax or paint applications, which just coat the whole thing over and contain microscopic bubbles and holes to allow drying. I'm sure local humidity has a lot to do with this, too.

Reply to
Chuck

Millions of board feet of lumber pass on the main road a mile from my house each year. None are end sealed.

Birdseye logs the Japanese rent a helicopter to lift out of the woods aren't end sealed, and there's a good-sized investment there.

I think your friend isn't stacking and storing his lumber properly. Or his profit margin is such that it's uneconomical to do so.

Reply to
George

George, the lumber passing by your house is likely going to be milled in relatively short order as well as is not required to be defect free if it's intended for the construction market. Here in Oregon the logs in the mill's yard may not be end sealed, but they have water sprayed on them continuously during the hot and dry summer months.

I'm sure you're aware that the tropical woods tolerate much smaller swings in humidity than the temperate woods before end checking occurs - perhaps there's a relationship to the variations in relative humidity these trees grow in in their natural environmental. Perhaps it's only a matter of density and brittleness. What ever it is, it certainly exists and that's what Chuck's friend is dealing with - tropical "exotics".

(Do woodworkers in Brazil, Africa, Thailand, Australia, etc. consider American Black Walnut, Cherry and Maple to be exotics?)

Reply to
Owen Lowe

Sadly, I have seen him loose thousands

Chuck, it would be very nice to experience temperatures like these in the UK. Likewise high humidity is likely only to be of the summer rain!

Seriously though, here in the UK if the logs are allowed to sizzle a little in the wax they tend to be OK, plus all the timber I treat loses at least 4 inches off the ends before I start turning so as to remove the majority of cracked section.

The other alternative is not to store it too long and use it before getting some more!

Thanks anyway for the reply, Regards, Peter Charles Fagg Freshwater, Isle of Wight, United Kingdom.

formatting link
Each can do but little! But if each DID that little, ALL would be done!

Reply to
Peter Charles Fagg

First, where I live is primarily hardwood country. We fell it, mill it, peel it for veneer, or sometimes kiln it before it leaves here for final use. It is not end sealed, because the benefit of the seal isn't worth the trouble of applying it. This holds true in all stages. End checks are largely self-limiting, originating as they do from differential drying rates. When the end grain dries to the point of breaking the capillary draw, it forms a barrier to rapid loss from further in the interior.

Tropical hardwoods are made of cellulose, just as our domestic hardwoods, and are subject to the same process when losing bound water. So you're as far off base in the assumption that tropical woods are different in the way they lose water as you were in assuming what happened to the wood around me.

There is a difference, of course in the way wood is laid down. Ring-porous woods like red oak hold water inside for long periods of time. Some tropical woods are also structured identically, and have the same property. If handled properly, they will not be subject to drying loss, nor will the red oak. Those with diffuse-porous structure behave more like their counterparts here.

Since the friend has a choice of climate control -that's what coating does, control the "climate" - or drying degrade, we may, I think properly assume that the reason he allows the degrade is that it would cost more to reduce it than the selling price justifies, just as is the case here.

Wood technology is a fine course of study for turners. A good place to begin is the FPL wood handbook I continually encourage people here to read.

Reply to
George

Yeah George, he probably doesn't know what he's doing. He only sells millions of dollars worth of lumber a year. It must hurt to have such a big brain in your head. (Yet another reason you're in my filter.)

Exactly Owen. And I'm not talking about logs, but lumber, which I already stated. Much of the stuff is chunks and blanks of things like mopane, myrtle burl, eucalyptus burl, cocobolo, bocote, goncalo alves, african blackwood, african olive, pau rosa, tulipwood, african wild pear, tamboti, thuya burl, and the like. We're not talking maple, oak and cherry. It's never kiln-dried, like domestic lumber, but air dried. While he does carry kiln dried exotics, these are _not_ end sealed, but then, being kiln dried, don't have to be.

Indeed. He has had to switch suppliers several times because of unreliable processing and having stuff shipped that is too wet. They're just trying to move product, after all.

Trouble is, it is often hard to get management to deal with prevention, like scraping off wax and applying anchorseal, until the time comes to pay the piper...you know how business is.

Actually, they kind of do. I swap wood with someone in Australia who just loves to get their hands on things like maple and cherry, which they've only seen in pictures.

Reply to
Chuck

I suspect that your higher year-round humidity has a very large part to do with it. And it might work great for the exotics while they're still in their country of origin, too, since they also "enjoy" greater humidity, year-round.

True enough, let the lumbermen deal with the storage problems!

Reply to
Chuck

Messmers Wax end grain sealer is available in the UK at qtdgroup.com

Reply to
Adrenalin

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.