Anchorseal & boiling wood.

AnchorSeal is manufactured in Buffalo, NY by U. C. Coatings. The last time I stopped at their main office, about a year ago, I inquired about the availability of AnchorSeal in the UK and was told that they were looking for UK distributors. Try sending an U. C. Coatings an email to them to see if they now have a UK distributor. They can be contacted via their web site at:

they're great people to deal with.

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Peter I do not bother to boil the blanks and my loss rate is likely about 1%. I rough turn, apply Anchorseal to the end grain and let dry in the shop for three months or more. Then I reattach with a glue block. For more detail look at my web site under roughing out a bowl.

Hello Peter: I use the brown kraft paper bags for preliminary drying and change the bag every day or so. The idea is to create a microclimate so that the wood's relaese of moisture is slowed down. More than one rough turning could, I think be placed in one bag if there was still room to roll the bag shut. I have never tried newsprint. In theory it should work, although I am a bit worried about ink stains. When you rough out a bowl, leave a tenon (spigot) that you can grab with your chuck. When you are ready to finish turn, you will likely need to true up the tenon as a first step. Given tha we are "divided by a common language" I have no idea what an airing cupboard is. You can, carefully, with some woods anyway, speed up the process with a microwave oven

Kip Powers Rogers, AR

Newsprint is just fine. A tent is a tent, and it slows moisture loss. Drying a green turning is basically a race between mildew from too slow and checking from too rapid drying. I've had times when the regular shelves were full, and placing fresh blanks inside cardboard cartons with air holes and leaving them in my sun-heated shed worked perfectly well. You'll learn your woods, but certain species like true poplars, birch and elm are virtually foolproof dryers, while others, like American beech just won't cooperate.

As to print rubbing off, I see much less difficulty with that doubtful but sandable problem than with drying too slow and the mildew that grows. Which is why I don't use a sealer; it seems to promote mildew, even when I put sealed pieces directly into the warmer air on the upper shelves. Old woods runner I used to hunt stock with used to dry burl and crosscut slabs by layering with newsprint, changing every few days at first, as they got damp, then less until he had them stickered in open air.

Gerald I paint the outside with Anchorseal but not the base. Still, to be sure the glue block adheres well I plane the base flat before gluing. that would also eliminate any residue of wax should you wish to Anchorseal the base.

Very interesting: Long ago, I used to use a pin chuck (homemade) for roughing out the outside. The interior use is, to me anyway, novel and ingenious!

Kip Powers Rogers, AR

There is a great article published in the Dallas Area Woodturners newsletter (April 2003) by Steven D Russell. You can get it here

Steve Worcester Better Woodturning through Technology (And a hell of alotta practice)

Hello Steve,

Thanks for the pointer to my boiling article... I have been out of town quite a bit lately demonstrating around the country, so I have not been up to date on the newsgroup postings. My work on new green wood drying protocols continues...

I have a new advanced technique for boiling that incorporates a thermal "shock" cycle, prior to submersion in the boiling water. This advanced protocol allows a reduced boil cycle, whilst maintaining all of the benefits traditional boiling offers.

Full details on the new protocol will be published later this year... My advanced microwave drying protocol will also be published soon, probably early next year. My microwave protocol has been refined over the last six years and has been quite illuminating. :-)

I hope to begin initial R&D testing of a new method for freeze drying wood next year as well. Also on tap for next year, is further refinement of my live flame curing method for green bowls.

Thanks again for your assistance and I hope to see you at the Dallas Woodworking Show. Look for me in the "Turning in Action" demonstration area. Take care and all the best to you and yours!

-- Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry...

"Woodturning with Steven D. Russell" now available! More than 93,000 words, and 500+ photos in 21 articles, email for details at snipped-for-privacy@flash.net

Steven D. Russell Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio The Woodlands, Texas

Machinery, Tool and Product Testing for the Woodturning and Woodworking Industries

Hello again,

Oops! I forgot to mention I will also begin the long awaited and much requested testing of "LDD" early next year. :-)

-- Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry...

"Woodturning with Steven D. Russell" now available! More than 93,000 words, and 500+ photos in 21 articles, email for details at snipped-for-privacy@flash.net

Steven D. Russell Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio The Woodlands, Texas

Machinery, Tool and Product Testing for the Woodturning and Woodworking Industries

Hi Peter, a similar product made by Chestnut is available in the UK. its name is End-Seal.

Sure! Leave envirofriendly, energy saving LDD to last! I wonder if your advanced microwave protocol's illumination was obtained by the combustion of the product as well as the microwave oven itself. Six years testing, Steve! You need to get a hustle on and get something accomplished! *VBG*

Leif