I just got a pile of freshly cut white ash (courtesy of the emerald ash borer) that I want to end seal. Does anyone know of a source for this local to Detroit? Or ... what good alternatives to this product do I have?
Bill
Bill wrote:>I just got a pile of freshly cut white ash (courtesy of the emerald ash
Paraffin? Or a really good shellacking? Tom Work at your leisure!
At least one Woodcraft down there - Canton Twp, I think. Check the book.
Woodcraft. I'll look that up. Thanks,
Bill
Bill,
Sorry, I don't know of local sources in the Detroit area. I used to use Anchorseal and the equivalent commercial ones but it just got too expensive for my operations.
Do you want something quick, easy, off-the-shelf (although less effective to varying degrees) or do you want to make your own (which just takes getting the ingredients and then mixing them)?
- Andrew
Yes, the Forest Products Laboratory does some good work and puts out some nice information, George. They have helped me immensely in research in the past. Unfortunately, it takes some actual reading and an attempt to understand what they're talking about to gain anything from their publications (such as your latest failed attempt quoted below). Many of their online articles are meant for the general public and they tend to "dumb it down" a little to target that population. Therefore, a two page summary of a topic, which can easily fill volumes when detailed, will not make the reader an expert in the field. While I certainly do not consider myself an expert by any means, I have done the field work; participated in the studies; written the papers; and have run a commercial operation that put the real-world workings of the topic into practice over the years in this area to qualify as a voice of authority at the very least.
I hate to say it, George, but ... get over it already. You have little to offer but harassment and I appear to be your target in this forum. A little searching on the web shows that you have your favorite targets in other forums. Pity them ....
- Andrew
I found Anchor Seal wasn't good enough alone in the dry climate where I live. I have to tarp my wood also. Lately I sometime skip applying the Anchor Seal. You can always cut off a couple inches from the end of the piece. The bigger diameter and heavier (which usually gets cut shorter), the more the Anchorseal is needed. I would recommend you get a five gallon bucket shipped from the manufacturer if you do much work:
Yes. Are you referring to latex paint?
Max
Yes and No. Answered privately.
- Andrew
Actually both. While I am (to borrow an analogy) "looking for Mr. Right", I'd be interested in "Mr. Right now", too. Something is usually better than nothing until the right thing can be had.
So ... I'd like the quick answer AND the right answer. The quick answer should buy enough time to get the right answer ready.
I have about 1 t. of maple that I would like to keep in as large of pieces as I can. I saw some beautiful figuring on the mother tree (this was one giant maple with 3' dia. limbs and a main trunk that is easily 6' diameter) so I am hopeful that the pieces I could actually lift into my pickup truck will share this characteristic. There are also a number of burls on it and I want to keep them intact until I am ready to turn them.
Some of the larger sections already have significant cracks. Will splitting along those lines help prevent additional deep cracks?
Bill
OK. I'll reply privately to your email on what to try tonight or tomorrow.
"AND the right answer" ... There's no right answer, just shades of wrong answers. Seriously though, just try it some of the alternatives (which I'll explain a few of them) and see what you like to use yourself. What I use, commercially, isn't practical for everyone. What a person that only protects a dozen pieces a month uses isn't practical for me. I use a different product for the pen blanks than I do for the logs, for example. It just depends on what works for you.
The burls you'll want to completely coat instead of just coating the cut portion. The grain structure of most burls makes that necessary.
I assume you mean that if you cut along those already developed cracks, you can help prevent additional cracks? Yeah, somewhat. If I can then that's what I'll do. You already know that that place in the wood is "weak" so going ahead and cutting there, when convenient, is fine. It's no guaranteee though.
- Andrew
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