Turned the segmented bowl that's been mocking me for a year

Nov 06, 2026 Last reply: 1 hour ago 4 Replies
Jump to replies (4)

Finally got around to the zebrawood, ash and purpleheart blank that's been sitting in the corner of the shop since last fall. Glued up a stack of rings with ash as the light accent bands and a fat purpleheart stripe near the rim, zebrawood base for the figured bottom. Dry fitted it about six times before committing because those glue lines have to line up or the whole thing looks crooked.



Took it easy on the cuts since purpleheart can chip out if you get greedy, and honestly the zebrawood tore out worse than anything else. A couple passes with the scraper and some sandpaper cleaned it up fine. The ash almost glows next to the dark bands once the finish went on. One thing I did learn: purpleheart looks brownish orange when you first cut it and only turns that deep purple after it sits and oxidizes for a bit. Had me second guessing my wood choice for a day until I remembered that's just how it works. It's now living on the mantel and the wife has allready claimed it, so aparently I'm making another one.


I did a segmented piece with purpleheart last winter and had the exact same moment of doubt when the fresh cuts came up looking muddy brown. Set it on the shelf fully expecting to hate it, then about a week later it was deep violet all over. Sunlight speeds that up a bit if you get impatient like I did. Just don't put finish on too early or it locks in some of that brownish tone. I used Danish oil on mine and it dulled the color more than I wanted, so I went with plain lacquer on the next one and it stayed much brighter.

Zebrawood tearing out doesn't surprise me at all. That alternating hard and soft grain is brutal. On my zebrawood vessel I ended up wetting the surface lightly before the final passes, which softened the fibers just enough to shave them clean instead of plucking them out. A shear scrape with the tool rest angled up helped too. Your dry fit discipline is smart. I rushed one glue-up on a 12 inch piece years ago and had a visible step at one joint that I had to sand for what felt like a week. Now I let everything sit clamped overnight minimum before I even think about touching the lathe. The ash bands glowing against the darker rings is a look I want to steal for my next blank, maybe with walnut instead of purpleheart this time just to change things up.

My first segmented bowl was cherry and wenge two years back and I made every glue-up mistake possible. Only dry fitted twice, and one ring ended up off by a hair so the whole silhouette leans a little when the light rakes across it. It lives in my shop now as a reminder. These days I pencil a number on the inside of every ring and stack them in the same orientation every time, which has saved me more than once. Funny that your zebrawood was the trouble child, because wenge did the same thing to me. Coarse open grain that drank finish unevenly, so the face came out blotchy no matter how careful I was sanding. What fixed it was wiping on a first coat thinned down quite a bit, letting it sit overnight, then going over it with the regular coats. Second attempt looked even all the way around. The piece getting claimed before it's even done is a pattern in my house too. Every bowl that turned out decent has migrated to my wife's office shelf, and her coworker saw one and asked what I'd charge for something similar. Still haven't figured out how to answer that one.

The wetting trick the second poster mentioned is the real deal. I turned a zebrawood lamp base a couple years back and fought tearout the whole way til I read about damping the surface. My version was a damp cloth wiped on and let sit about ten minutes, then taking very light passes with a freshly honed scraper. The fibers fuzz up slightly but they cut clean instead of plucking out, and a light sanding knocks the fuzz right off. Only annoying part is you have to let it dry fully before sanding or the paper gums up fast. Made the difference between a week of touch up and an afternoon of actual turning.

The sanding part gets people too. On my padauk and maple vase I had the color fully shifted, then hit one spot with 220 to fix a burn mark and that patch sat brown for another couple days before it caught back up. Ended up doing final sanding right before the finish went on so everythign evened out togehter. Also fair warning, that purple dust gets everywhere. It was in the grout of my shop floor for months. What finish did you end up going with on this one?

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required