Wavy black epoxy lines across a turned holly call

Oct 31, 2026 Last reply: 15 hours ago 3 Replies
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The detail that jumps out first is the surface: a pale holly body covered in intersecting wavy black lines, as if a net had been laid over the wood. The maker reached that look by cross-cutting a hatch pattern into the blank and backfilling it with black pigmented epoxy, then turning everything back to shape. On a call this small, keeping the filled lines crisp through all that turning seems like the hardest part of the whole project.



The finished form is circular, with a dished face drilled with small holes and a scalloped, undulating rim, and it was turned on a wood lathe in a metal chuck. The maker's guide lays out the sequence: a four-inch square blank gets scrap wood glued underneath for a chucking tenon, a tenon is turned between centers, and the piece then goes into a four-jaw chuck to be turned round. Internal shelves seat a 3.5-inch striking surface and, deeper down, a tenon shelf for a 3-inch soundboard. The guide calls the roughly 1/8-inch gap between the soundboard top and the striking surface bottom the most important part of the entire process.



Two loose ends are worth noting. It is not clear whether that guide describes this exact call or an earlier one filmed a few years ago, and an inside photo showing the soundboard-to-striking-surface gap may not be of this specific piece. The maker also notes that denser wood needs more material removed, calling it a balance, and rates E6000 glue as very important.


One choice stands out to me: gluing scrap wood under the blank for a chucking tenon. That seems a tidy way to hold the work for the between-centers stage and still be rid of the tenon later, given the guide has the maker remount through the internal tenon and remove the scrap before contouring the bottom and edge. The trade-off is a bit of extra gluing at the start.

Question on the gap: the guide calls the 1/8 inch between the soundboard top and the striking surface bottom the most important part, but how does the maker actually land on that number while cutting the internal shelves? Is it checked with a gauge as each shelf is turned, or measured afterward and corrected?

A variation worth trying: run the same hatch-and-epoxy treatment on a denser species. The maker points out that denser wood needs more material removed, calling it a balance. Someone following the same steps with a dense blank could plan for that extra removal and see whether the intersecting black lines read even sharper against a darker, tighter grain.

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