Simple, basic sock pattern

pattern uses aran weight, so they should knit up pretty quickly.DA

This is the pattern I use for my socks, which wrest their beauty from the yarn rather than the virtuosity of the knitter:

Cast on over 2 needles Gauge x ankle measurement in inches: (6.5 s/in x 8" =

52 sts), dividing work over 3 needles. Work in K1P1 for 2" on 3 or 4 needles, then in stockinette for 10.75 inches more (or in K2P2 rib for 6.5 inches, stockinette for 6.25 more). Work last 2 rows with nylon reinforcing thread (i.e., serger thread).

TOE SHAPING Put half the stitches on one needle (call it #2) for sock-front, dividing the rest between 2 other needles (#1 and #3).

3/ \1 / _ \ 2 Continuing with nylon joined in, decrease 4 sts every other row as follows, until only 20 sts are left: On #1, work to within 3 sts of end, K2tog, K1 On #2, K1, [sl 1, K1, psso], work to within 3 sts of end, K2tog, K1 ON #3, K1, [sl 1, K1, psso], knit to end. Knit next row. Place all sock bottom stitches on one needle, and weave front to back with kitchener stitch.

Kitchener Stitch: divide stitches between two needles, "front" and "back". Break thread, leaving about 20" to work with.

*With "front" towards you, take yarn through first stitch as if to knit, slip stitch off needle. Take yarn through next stitch as if to purl, leave stitch on needle. Take yarn through first stitch on "back" as if to purl, slip stitch off needle. Take yarn through next stitch as if to knit, leave stitch on needle.* Repeat until all stitches are off needles; tighten up weaving, weave end in.

MAKE HEEL (after thought-heel from Elizabeth Zimmerman's book): "Snip one thread at the point where the top center of the heel flap would be [for me this is about 5 inches back from the first toe decreases, or 6.5" from end of toe]. Unravel the row of this stitch in either direction [i.e., both directions] until you have a gaping hole 2/3 of the way around the sock with stitches waiting to be picked up above and below. Pick them up on three needles, and with wool and nylon together of course, work 3 rounds and then make a toe, with the decrease points at the ankles. This heel is convenient for taking out and re-knitting, should it ever show signs of wear."

Hope this helps,

Try Elizabeth Bennett's Perl Sock Program to work out a pattern for any yarn. So pick a yarn and needle size and this site will generate a pattern.

When I knit very heavy house socks, I put a daub of "Shoe Goo" under the heel and under the ball of the foot. Shoe goo is used to repair athletic shoes and keeps the socks from being so slippery. With the goo, socks also last a bit longer, but can still be still be slipped into a pair of waterproof boots when you must go out into the mud to clip a few tulips for the breakfast table.