As I have said before, I am not much of a counter, so I like to pick up the gusset stitches on a pair of DPN that are a size or two smaller. Then, I can make sure that I pick up the same number of stitches on either side, and I am less likely to have a hole in the side of my sock. This is probably just the result of poor technique in picking up stitches, but somehow it is easier than leaning to do better.
I use 4 DPN when I am doing plain socks, and 5 DPN when I want to keep track of pattern stitch panels plus the 2 smaller DPN for picking up the gusset stitches.
When I am traveling, I throw an extra needle in the bag in case I drop or break a needle, so I am likely to have 8 needles with me when I walk out the door.
The most recent pair I made had 85 stitches around on size ones.
I like s1k1psso too, but sometimes ssk helps keep the two stitches more the same size. In a good grabby yarn, they don't equalize as easily as in a slippery yarn. Really, it depends on the mood I'm in at the moment - I'll use ssk on one round, s1k1psso on the next.
I've tried both, but right now I don't have a strong preference. Since I like to fold the cuffs down, I don't care if they're a little loose, and I can bind off loosely enough for comfort. But I admit I find it easier to bind off or graft the toe than to start a toe-up sock, so I guess I prefer cuff-down for that reason. If I'm short of yarn, it's toe-up or make heels and toes with a different color.
I wanted to learn toe up because I had some beautiful hand-dyed yarn that I wanted to make into socks. After winding it into balls, the balls looked small and I worried about running out. Toe up lets me stop when the yarn runs out!
Alison PS not grafting the toe is also a plus, the toe I learned to make has no seam at all which is good for sensitive feet.
But 85 stitches is not too much for three needles. The toques that I knit for winter have 96 stitches around. However, with knitting, as Mirjam reminds us, there is no right and wrong - just whatever works for you, right?
There are three ways a knitting sheath helps me knit faster.
First, the spring of the needle does half of the knitting motion. I push the needle sideways, then as I release it, the needles springs back much faster then anybody's hand could pull it. So the knitting/purling motion is reduced to slightly flexing the needle, and allowing it to spring back. It is like push button knitting. Instead of spending time moving the needle, your right hand can spend more time controlling tension and moving stitches.
Second, the sheath stabilizes the work zone allowing the needle tips to stay in closer contact and to have smaller needle motions to form the stitches, this is a particular advantage as the stitches get smaller.
Third, It moves the effort of knitting to the upper arms. My hands and wrists do not get tired, so I can knit longer, and at a higher rate. After a long evening of knitting, it is my biceps that are tired, not my hands or wrists.
My first post to RCTY was, " How do I knit faster?" And, this group taught me to knit faster. Then I got a copy of G. Thompson's book on ganseys. I bought good cable needles and I was not able to consistently knit the tight, traditional gansey fabrics on cable needles. I still can not. It has taken my 3 years to tease out the rest of the story. I am still not what I would call a fast knitter. But, now I can knit the tight traditional gansey fabrics at a reasonable rate. I did 3,000 stitches last night at 8 spi and
11 rpi with a worsted weight yarn. It is a windproof, waterproof repellent fabric that will keep me warm in an open boat. It will be real fisherman's gansey in a traditional Filey pattern. I looked, and a knitting sheath and long steel DPN is the only technology that I have been able to find that does the job.
Which is not to say that I have mastered the technology. Just as it took me a long time to learn to make knitting needle points that I really like, knitting sheath's have a sophisticated simplicity. For example, I am just leaning to take advantage of the belt loop placement in modern jeans.
You can make a knitting sheath and a set of long needles in a morning. I expect you can make the time back in your first 20,000 stitches because of faster knitting. Try it, you might like it.
I do not recommend long DPN were there are small kids around. They are just too likely to pop up next to you and get a needle in the eye. Cable needles are safer. Cable needles are safer. Cable needles are safer. Aaron
Well, those were pretty convincing arguments. I will have to have a look when I go to Halifax next week. I have a yarn store there which I visit. Can you buy knitting sheaths in stores?
Higs, Kather> There are three ways a knitting sheath helps me knit faster.
Ah, No. I have certainly never seen them for sale, and I have looked. But, Halifax would be the right place to look. Perhaps you could find one in an antique store, but you need matching needles. The sheath and needles form a system. For example the needles must fit snugly in the sheath. I have tried other kinds of needles, but what brings out all the virtues of the system is spring steel.
Anybody that is handy in a home workshop can make you one in a few hours. Although, I had to make many prototypes before I made something that I really liked. And, you either make it to fit existing needles, or you make the needles to fit also. Many of the steel needles made today are cast and plated. They are not as flexible and they are very slippery. Maybe in your neck of the woods you could fine an "Old Timer" whose wife or mother knit in the old days that could make it right the first time?
Maybe, I just have to send one of mine. If you do not find anything, send me a note direct.
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