advice altering shoulder/contour darts

>> > Beautiful, if a bit of overkill. ;-)>

Hmmm, the description does say it has "neckline variations" and one illustration shows it with more of a "boat" neck, than scooped.

I was fascinated by: "A: sleeveless with raw edges at lower edge and applied hem band with raw edges."

I may just have to get that pattern to investigate further.

Beverly

I was fascinated by: "A: sleeveless with raw edges at lower > edge and applied hem band with raw edges." Me too. If I recall correctly, that view called for lace -- perhaps the instructions call for using the scalloped selvage and the blurb writer misunderstood? I don't see any sign of a "hem band" in any of the pictures.

Joy Beeson

Or turn them under and straight-stitch, or apply hong-kong binding, or . . .

Joy Beeson

Dear Kate,

I never thought about using drapery pleating for my skirts. I did them by hand with carpet thread, mumbling through each one. I doubt that I'll ever make costumes again (I'll be 70 next birthday, and happily playing with my dolls), but if I do, I'll remember that trick.

Teri

> > I was fascinated by: "A: sleeveless with raw edges at> > lower

Nor did I, you may be right, I will see if the pattern is available next time I'm in TSWLTH.

Beverly

Rennie* trick, that one... But I first saw it on a costume made for the Royal Opera House! It struck me as a superb cheat! You use the lightest, cheapest stuff you can get. :D

*Renaissance fair costumers...

Hi, Rob, - I think you should do the same to the lining as you do to the main fabric, so yes, you will have to alter those darts too. If the current darts are not cut and the new ones are not too large, then you can leave them uncut too. As for the thread, if the dress is 100% silk, it will have to be cleaned and not washed so you can use any kind of thread, it doesn't have to be silk thread.

From-----Leggy

robb wrote:

On May 23, 5:49 pm, Kate XXXXXX wrote: [snip]

[snip]

Can you explain about this a little? I mean, would you please? I'm curious, but I don't understand it. I've heard of cartridge pleating, and have even looked at some explanations, but I never quite "got" how it is supposed to work. And I've no idea what curtain tape is, or how you would use it to make said pleats. But if it makes it easier? I really want to know! :)

Muchas gracias, //Mary/mgl

Pleating tape is used to pleat draperies:

Kate's idea for using it to make cartridge pleats in costumes is incredible. Who knew??? Beverly

It was totally new to me, too, and I thought that I knew ALL the tricks to make fast costumes or alterations or emergency fixes!! Just shows, there is always something new out there.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans

Cartrideg pleatrs should look like a row of cartridges in a belt, thus the name... You make them traditionally by marking even distances (say an inch) along your skirt top, and sewing with several rows of stitches in strong thread so that it gather up as if for smocking. It's a good idea to cheat a bit and use a strip of gingham for the marks! :) Like this:

You get a similar effect using a cheap light weight 3" header tape for curtains, and it's a LOT quicker to hammer the tape on by machine and gather it up than it is to sew all the stitches by hand! It isn't as good, but it does the job just fine when you have a dozen to do for a school play, for example, and time and budget are limited.

Thanks to everyone for the advice and help.

I am just a sewing hobbyist, i was bitten by "sewing bug", everytime i see something that is sewn i find myself turning it inside out trying to figure out how it was sewn and how one might duplicate on my not so feature ladden vintage zig-zag machine

I did not mention before but i only had two days till the wedding.

I combined some alteration advice ....

• fitted and re-pinned the dress right side out

• marked pins with chalk on wrong side

• removed pinning and re-pinned the wrong side as for machine sewing following line of chalk and gently tappering into princess seams

• pinned lining like shell

• sewed lining and shell separeate with 80/11 sharp and C&C #50 mercerized cotton at 12-15 stitch /inch

• ripped princess seam under new seam and pressed flat

• re-fit and it was great ... (the seams that is) the new seam blended perfectly with princess seams (yes i was little surprised) the fit was great but i thought it could be improved (perfectionist) but DW said good enough for her

the compliment came as relatives who knew about the intended alteration looked at dress and remarked to DW, "oh so you decided to just take it to the shop be altered ?"

Job done thanks gain robb

I do all my sewing on my brand-new-in-1961 Singer 401A. I recently bought a Singer Quantum XL5000, but although it

*could* be used for sewing, I use it only for embroidery. The 410As are very good machines.

Wow, good thing you planned ahead! ;-)

Fabulous, good for you! Nice of your DW to share your accomplishment.

Beverly

YESSS!!!!! *giving high-five*

Hehehehe! You're the man, Rob! Well done! :D :D

hey, thats the vintage zig-zag i was talking about.

i purchased 401A primarily through advice given here on alt.sew in the past when i was lurking and wanting to get a machine to handle most of what i planned to try.

first i was bitten by the sewing machine recondition/fixit bug (now a small collection) then next the sewing bug.

happy to know i am using good tools... robb

heh heh.... I'd betcha money that's how an awful lot of us here got started. ;)

Whoo hoo! Good job on planning carefully. Oh, and welcome to the club, sometimes sailing in barely under the deadline just adds to the rush of a job well done. lol

Wonderful!! This is also when you're allowed to quietly gloat for the rest of the evening. lol

Good job all the way around. What's your next project?

Sharon

Hey! Careful what you call "vintage"! I bought that machine new in 1961... ;->

Well done grasshopper.

The best, IMHO.

Beverly