Help! Calling Cea!

It seems that you are directing this post at another seamstress, but since she hasn't responded yet, and you seem in desperate help... my heart couldn't help but try and offer some advice. Forgive me for interjecting...

First of all, I wouldn't start from scratch as I think you would only be making more work for yourself and from what you've said... it doesn't seem that the dresses are unsalvagable, but I haven't seen the dresses.. it could be a whole other kettle of fish...

I think you are right by trying an invisible zipper. In order to keep the fabric from stretching, I would probably use a twill tape (probably 1/4" wide, just along the seam) to keep it from puckering on the zipper. Or if that's too heavy, use a straight grain, lightweight fusible interfacing, cut just about an inch wide to accomodate the seam allowance and give support to the zipper seam.

Something else you can try is, take out the zipper and hand baste it in place when it's on the bridesmaid. That way it's already lying straight. You can then proceed to hand sew the zipper in.

Anyway, I hope that helps. I make bridesmaid dresses on a regular basis and I know what it's like to have someone in a panic call to you for help.....*S*

Good luck! Addie

This is definitely along the lines of things I was thinking I could try! I suppose making from scratch MIGHT take longer than just doing the zips, but you are talking here to the las who finds it easier to make a new dress than iron one she already owns!

I have done a few bridesmaid's things, and a few bias cut things, but I have yet to put a zipper in a side seam of a bias cut dress. I put this out to the group for all comers, so don't feel like you are butting in! I just know Cea's business is dress rescue (one of her many talents!), so I thought I'd flag it for her. Also, I know a lot of others here will benefit from the discussion.

Hit the URL below to see the last lot of bridal stuff I played with.

Oooh nice work! Love the costumes...

I hope all turns out well. I know how you feel, I'd sooner make a new dress than alter one. But with only the zipper to fix, I think I'd be able to stomach it...

All the best!

Addie

Kate, do you have Sullivan's "Glue Pins" in your country? It sets in around

10 minutes and is very strong. I've basted long zippers using it with better success than pinning or basting (yuck!). Washes out too. I know you got a bone corset that you may be able to tie the person down in long enough to finger press it into position. Just a thought.

B~

Thanks, I have the feeling I'm going to need all the help I can get with this one!

I have something called Liquid Pins, but never liked it much. I also have some of that magical tape stuff for basting in zippers and the like...

I think I may have to experiment q little if there are any off-cuts of fabric available.

Well, if this had been a vintage pattern, I wouldn't have chosen a zip either, because this puckering is what I'd have expected! I might even suggest we swap the zips for tape and popper, using a tape that allows us some 'give'.

I have a lovely book that gives all sorts of alternatives, and a couple of 1930's home sewing manuals that detail a lot of techniques still used in couture dressmaking.

I get the impression that this dressmaker made then dresses exactly according to the distructions, without thinking of alternatives that might have made a better finish! I shall find the full extent of the problem when I see it on Friday!

I'm not Cea, but what about taking the original zippers out, letting the dress hang overnight, and then using a lingerie zipper (the jobbies with the very lightweight knit tape)-- by hand. Store the dresses flat till worn to prevent more sagging. Maybe???

Or ye olde fashioned way? Lots and lots of little hooks and thread eyes?

Good luck!

Kay

Another good zip option! :)

And another thing you might use, instead of twill tape, is the selvage from silk organza. It's lightweight, but firmly woven and very staple.

I'd also run a line of stitching, using ease plus method, along the seam allowance, and steam it, hoping to shrink some of the fullness out of it first.

Karen Maslowski in Cincinnati

And yet another thought... snaps on the upper placket, snaps sewn by a single hole, with a thread shank, on the lower placket. Gives more flexibility than the standard sewn snap... I've heard it called a "chinese snap", but don't know if that's the only name for it.

Do you have any of that lovely old rayon taffeta seam binding? It's very light in weight and soft, and might do to reinforce the seam. I have tons of it because it isn't being made anymore and I know someone who uses it for an inexpensive "silk" ribbon embroidery, and because I'm compulsive in the thrift stores and can't pass it up.

The new stuff is polyester, and might work as well.

I was shuddering to suggest the same as Kay and Val, but that's how all my

30s bias-cut things are finished - either with press-studs, or hooks and eyes. There's not a zip in any of 'em. Of course, zips were metal back then, and pretty heavy - I haven't tried a lingerie zip.

Best of luck Kate.

:) Trish

Help! Calling Cea! snipped-for-privacy@diceyhome.free-online.co.uk (Kate=A0Dicey) AKK! I backed myself into a corner today! Gave in when a bride with a six week deadline called for help - her bridesmaid dresses need fixing! She had them made, and they are bias cut. They fit well enough, but the zips are a disaster! There are zips up the side seams, and they are all buckled and rumpled up when the dresses are on the lasses. Unfortunately, the zips come down to hip level! She has already spent =A3600 on these, made by another dressmaker, and I did warn her that they might not be recoverable. I also warned her that it might be easier and more economical to start again, but I would need to look at them and assess the damage, before saying whether or not I could do the work. One zip has apparently been re-sewn, and looks worse than it did before! How would you put a zip in the side seam of a bias cut dress without having it pucker all to hell and back? My choice would be a light weight invisible zipper, as short as possible, and sewn in by hand. Waddya fink, Mrs Alterations Wizard?

That is exactly what my sister had to do to a bride in her dress a couple of years ago - just took the zip out and sewed her into the garment with just enough room to slide it over her head.

:) Trish

(incredibly sad tale of woe snipped)

Kate, maybe giving the bride-to-be this link would be of some consolation:

So? Tough! It sounds to me as though this dressmaker is an amateur masquerading as a professional (and charging professional prices), in addition to being a speed merchant. It also sounds as though she is only accustomed to working with cotton and/or polyester - machine blind hems on crepe back satin, indeed.

I consider myself a rank amateur, only sew for myself, but would never have embarked on a project like this without first hitting the books and making sure I knew what I was doing.

I understand that way back in the 1930s, when these dresses were vey fashionable, the "upper crust" ladies routinely failed to wear undies because it showed a line. As a possible alternative, when I had to wear a vintage dress like this in a play, I wore a bodyshaper type garment, the kind of thing which is continuous spandex from bra down to midthigh - sort of an attached pantygirdle and longline bra, all in one piece. I don't know what it is called nowadays - but I wore it and no lines showed anywhere.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

Same here! ;P

Unfortunately, yes...

I hope so - haven't yet seen what kind of a mess she made of the pattern! The start from scratch one will be ok, if a little rushed...

I'll ask them about that. After talking to me mum, who knows some of this stuff, she did remember that most 30's bias dresses were unlined, and they wore separate slips with the. We shall see. With a lighter, less springy lining fabric, properly cut, it should be better.

Thanks - I need it!

Kate,

I'm feeling ill just from reading the whole thing.

I would suggest you take a lot of detailed pictures and document everything you do on these dresses. That way, you will have really good documentation on how the dresses were before and after your work. I know if that mess happened over here, there would be a lawsuit in the works over it. Thorough documentation is always a good thing in cases like that.

I know you will do your best to make a silk purse out of this collective sow's ear. :) They are lucky to have found you Kate. I know you will make them gorgeous.

And remember a good cussing at the dresses will help let off steam from time to time. :)

Good luck!!!!

Sharon