Placement of sewing machine

Interesting question - I've just been pondering that meself and doing some measuring.

Disclaimer first: I've got no certification of any sort in ergonomics, so this is "IMHO" and "YMMV".

Claimer: I'm a career-long computer worker who has spent much time learningthrough medical and physio treatments for repetitive straing injuries - I'm educated and can read and the ergonomics of sewing/quilting joined my topics of interest beside computer ergonomics when I got serious.

The "rules" for a good sewing station are similar to those for a computing station. Ideally, start with your chair height. Sit on chair, adjust so your feet are flat on the floor, and your knees are at a 90 degree angle.

Your desk/sewing table *height* is next, and should be based on this: sitting in your properly adjusted chair, sit up straight, relax your shoulders, and bend your arms 90 degrees at the elbows. Elbows in this position rest directly at your sides, approximately at waist height. The correct table height is actually slightly LOWER than your flat palms in this position. At least for keyboarding, because a typical keyboard will have its key surfaces about an inch above the table's surface, and your 90 deg. angle should bring your palms to "floating" slightly above the tops of the keys, so that if you relax your hands so your fingers droop to a neutral position, they droop to touch they key surfaces. In keyboarding, your work surface is actually the surface of the keys. It is considered acceptable for your work surface to be slightly lower than this, eg, your elbows will be at an angle of slightly more than 90 degrees if this is your comfort/preference. If using an angled keyboard or keyboard tray, the angle should be tilting down, away from you - that is, the number keys, top row of keyboard, are lower than the space bar. Most keyboards and desks to that wrong, even ergonomic ones - they are angled to hyperextend the wrists rather than accomodate relaxed flexion.

Position: Sit in the center of the alpha keys on the keyboard, so each hand has to move an equal distance toward the body's centreline to be in a touch-typing position.

OK - so the above is based on "what I know" - eg, stuff that is documented ergonomic advice and or that docs/physios have told me. After this point, I am extrapolating to my own knowledge of sewing systems and what best works for me in sewing.

Chair mechanics: same. Invest in a good chair. Arms might be less advised for a sewist than a computer geek (more arm movement, particularly if free-motion quilting).

Table: incorporating the above with respect to basic table position, realize that your work surface level is now the top of your fabric. This means the machine plate is essentially your work surface (given fabric thicknesses in millimetres). If you have a sewing station where the machine bed sits flush with the table surface, this is your table height, if your machine sits up on top of the table, you actually need a pretty LOW table, applying ergonomic "rules". To me this means my ideal sewing table is an inch or two higher than my keyboard tray/table but has the cutout of course. (It is still below the height of most non-adjustable office desks).

Position: everyone who has ever mentioned this to me of course says to sit centred in front of the needle.

Distance from edge: I suspect from the other comments this is the most variable and subject to personal preference. I'll ask a physiotherapist if I ever have another chance but I suspect also that I won't get a clear opinion. I'm currently amusing co-workers with some strange fiddling at my desk, but here's how I've just figured out where I seem to like my needle:

Sit in your adjusted chair, at your proper-height tabled, and scoot up as close to the table as is just barely a "natural" seated postion. EG, tummy right up to the edge but don't "squish" any ample parts into the table or have to work to hold yourself that close. Rest your forearms and hands, palms down, on the table surface and double-check that 90 degrees or slightly more at the elbows, with shoulders relaxed and hence elbows staying right at your sides and off the table. In this position if I drew a line between my index fingers, my needle would come down on that line, or slightly on the near side of of it (closer to the edge).

I figure this is approximately right for me, because I will not usally work with belly RIGHT up to the edge of the table, but that is offset by the fact that I DO usually work with my hands' neutral position being slightly in front of the needle as they control fabric feeding in So to actually touch the needle from my natural "working" position requires a slight reach forward with the hands/arms, but NOT so much of a reach that my body must lean. Hope that description makes sense. For me, my absolute maximum measurement would be needle 9.5 inches from the edge, and I think I would actually place it between 7 and 8 inches from the edge.

Because you can always "back up" from the table, but cannot get closer due to the physical barrier of the table edge, I would err on the near side. The only problem I could forsee with putting my needle closer to the edge, say, 4-5 inches, is that when sitting up straight in my proper chair, the angle would be such that I couldn't SEE the needle. This would lead to me curving my back and neck down and possibly tilting my head to the side to get a view of my needle. If you are very short, that's not a problem. If you are very tall it could be a BIG problem. Since you've got the luxury of custom design, try out the measurement/placement and "fiddle" with it, then measure exactly what works for you!

Wow, that got long. Sorry! Can you tell I've spent some time on this very topic?

Hope it is of some use to you, or someone else.

Reply to
FurrsomeThreesome
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Something I have never been able to do is get a professional fitting and OH I wish I could. I have the issue of 40 DDD or possibly an F but who knows (yes au natural)? I wear what I can get into and that's that. Besides, they are bloody EXPENSIVE to purchase! Where I live, we have no lingerie shops or specialty shops for those women who don't know how to measure their bazooms.......... and now? my poor poor daughter is turning 14 and wearing at least a 36 C right now... and even those look too small on her....

As you are a garment maker, how do you measure for the correct fit? And why do you prefer the underwire?

I would love to be able to measure her and at least get close to what size she should be wearing........ lord knows mother nature will have her way with all of them eventually but if I can make it comfortable for her now, maybe she will keep up the measure and fit part.

Oh lord how does one get from machine placement to bazooms??? Women and the track the conversations take!

~KK >

Reply to
~KK in BC~

Ok, I have to ask this. If your 'bazooms' are so large and uncomfortable, why do you keep them? I have a friend who is 5'2" and MAYBE 100lbs if she's soaking wet and holding a can o' soup.... anyway, she was in the D+ range and had reduction; she says it's made a huge difference. Mine are C, and I'd have them reduced if Ic ould afford such....

Reply to
lisa skeen

That was very interesting and helpful, and I'm looking forward to checking out the height of my chair, position of my machine, etc. when I get home. I was right with you until the last part, when you mentioned how it would be bad to have to bend over to see needle...I had a flashback of me trying out the blind hem stitch for applique this week for the first time. I was in a lovely ergonomically proper position in my chair, arms 90 degrees...then as I started to stitch, I hunched my back, leaned waaaaaaay over and down, simultaneously stretching my neck and upper torso to the left of my needle, nose right there next to the needle, trying to see where the needle is actually landing (if only that guide which is supposed to be doing me so much good would get out of my way so I could see the needle)... praying I don't sew through my nose... looking like a hunchback. You mean that isn't good for me?!

Lynn, who apparently needs to reevaluate methods t> Interesting question - I've just been pondering that meself and doing > some measuring.

Reply to
quilter

You hit the nail on the head there, afford.

It is only half covered by medical. Half of it would be medical reasoning, they consider the other half to be elective and therefore not covered. I do not have the extra $8,000 or so to get the job done because the infamous "they" consider it to be a cosmetic thing.

~KK in BC~ who has done the appointments and research and found out it is cheaper to get em stuck on that to cut em off......... friend of mine got some put on for about $4000.

Reply to
~KK in BC~

This explains fit fairly well.

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this one:
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is a matter of shape, how the breast sits on the chest wall, and what you find comfortable. boobs are different shapes, like feet, and some find one thing more comfortable than another. It's also a matter of the shape of your torso: if you have an oval section rib-cage, you may find non-wired bras or ones with a wider space between the cups better. If, like me, your rib-cage is more round in section, you may find those that are set closer together more comfortable.>

I do hope so. The difference between a well fitting bra and an ill-fitting one is a matter of health as much as style.

Thread drift... ;D

Reply to
Kate Dicey

rotflmaopimp!! Oh my - so very well put!!

Reply to
SNIGDIBBLY

Mine is placed on a recessed computer desk platform and it works beautifully. I have an adjustable chair and it is just the right height and distance from the edge.

Reply to
SNIGDIBBLY

well I got "lucky"as the insurance here did pay for mine but then I had a size GG and a bad back. bra choice was limited to white one make one type take it or lump it.

but the down side of reductions is that if your hormones ( estrogens is responsible for the size of boobs - if your daughter has heavy periods it would, IMO, be a good idea to investigate the estrogens levels - it could save a lot of period problems in the long run) have a bit of fun your boobs grow right back - I'm an E cup now and I am desperately hoping that my hormones are not going to make them grow more

Reply to
Jessamy

Just measured mine: 4.5 inches/11 cm from the needle to the front of the flat-bed plate. This overhangs the front edge of the typewriter stand a trifle.

Joy Beeson

Reply to
joy beeson

Aha! So this is why my machine is so much closer to me than some of the other posters keep theirs! I *always* taut-sew, so my left hand is *behind* the needle -- if both hands are flat on the fabric in front of the needle, you are going to need a considerable space to accommodate them.

In sewing, as in everything else: it's gotta fit, and what fits me won't fit you.

Joy Beeson

Reply to
joy beeson

At least we're staying on topic for the group.

I was never happy with my bras until I designed my own by cutting the tail and sleeves off my T-shirt pattern and adding waistband elastic. I originally meant to put three rounds of quarter-inch elastic in casings around the bottom of the bra, but I was out of quarter-inch elastic and had a whole reel of waistband elastic. Top-stitching one round of elastic is much easier than making three casings, so I've kept on using waistband elastic.

I've only one bra from the finished pattern -- my white linen is too coarse, and haven't gotten around to buying more "handkerchief" linen. (There's enough handkerchief linen left to make another bra -- and another triangle scarf

-- but one lime-green bra is *quite* enough. )

But it took so many betas to get the pattern fine tuned, that one night as I was trying to remember whether I'd worn my bra one day or two, it struck me that I didn't *need* to remember; I could change twice a day (and in July and August, I do change twice a day) and still make it from washday to washday. Quite a change from when I felt opulently supplied if I had three and only two of them were worn out!

Joy Beeson

Reply to
joy beeson

Yes, but you have to look quite hard, don't you. J's are fairly readily available by comparison. As a mere F, I'm lucky that several local local stores carry them.

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Ahem.... they actually go up to M or N if you look in the right places. :)

Reply to
Melinda Meahan - take out TRAS

Lee-Anne Burgess's book tells how to get a personally drafted pattern that has to be done with the help of a *very* intimate acquaintance. Or you can check out Pattern Master Curves and use their bra pattern.

Reply to
Melinda Meahan - take out TRAS

There are a number of reasons --

The surgery can be risky, and there are definite side effects.

Maybe someone wants to have a baby and breastfeed afterward.

My HMO won't pay for it (not that I want it) unless my weight is within x% of ideal.

But really, a C cup isn't worth reducing, is it, unless you really want to take the risk of becoming an AA cup, because they can't guarantee what cup size is left. (hint as to my perspective: ask me how I know what the largest cup size bra that can be purchased is)

Reply to
Melinda Meahan - take out TRAS

... estrogen and fat cells ....

Reply to
SNIGDIBBLY

Did you all know that when you are in menopause your breasts grow almost a whole cup size? I was shocked when I found this out and it does explain why women must change sizes as they "cure" LOL

~KK in BC~

Reply to
~KK in BC~

Oh boy am I in for it then! I thought that once the hormones gave up on life I would be in the clear! oh well .. at least I am forewarned!

Reply to
Jessamy

Reply to
Pogonip

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