Re: dutch process cocoa

Aug 18, 2003 0 Replies


Hi all. I've read that when a recipe calls for baking soda and cocoa, you


> should use natural cocoa and not dutch process. But if the recipe includes
> baking soda and does not specifically state that natural cocoa could be
> used, is that OK (to use dutch process)? I've actually seen recipes that
> use baking soda and then comment that their favorite cocoa is Pernigotti,
> which is Dutch process. This is my favorite, too, and since I've started
> using it, I hate using regular Hersheys. I've read Scharfen-Berger natural
> cocoa is good, and I just got some of that, so I'll have to see. Karen

It is straighforward rule but in the deeper side is not as simple in terms of the finer and subtle flavor quality from such chemical reaction. If the recipe includes baking soda and baking powder you can use either the natural or dutched process cocoa;but preferably use the natural cocoa as you will have more latitude for modification (if the flavor effect is mild) and the degree of chocolatey taste is not optimized.You can add more baking soda to modify the flavoru. You do hot have this flexibility if you use all dutched cocoa.If you are using dutched cocoa you can only increase the baking powder.These different combinations will affect the baked products quality colour and taste. But if the leavening added is only baking soda it implies you should use natural cocoa or you will end up with some off flavor that affect the taste of your baked product due to an excessively alkaline batter with using dutched cocoa. Cocoas natural and alkaline(or dutched type) are not the same . The type of the beans and its blends are also effected by this particular treatment.Besides a proprietary cocoa blends are blended with different ratios of various bean from different varieities that have some unique subtle flavor of its own as well as in blends. Some blends benefit from high alkali treatement, while in others the flavor profile exhibit significant change with minimal alkali treatment. Therefore the thought of using soda and baking powder as leavening agent should be not taken as absolute rule . You have to do some combinations of leavening in baking ;then some flavour evaluation as you add a particular level of soda to a particular proprietary cocoa you use in your recipe. Besides adding of soda in the batter (for the purpose improving the flavour and deepening the color) will not produce uniform result of colour change which reflects the degree of pH variation.Some cocoa exhibit different colour behaviour.Instead of becoming deep reddish it will turn to reddish brown to muddly to almost black in extreme cases.This is also caused by degree of roasting the beans. Another thing is the amount of cocoa butter in the cocoa can influence the flavour appreciation of the cocoa and low fat (10-12%)dutched cocoa is not as tasty and flavorful as medium fat(20-25%) dutched cocoa. Therefore have fun in carrying out test of your own ,using different cocoa products available to you in your baking application.It is a great learning experience in discovering what cocoa blends and what leavening combinations is suitable for your tastes. Roy

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