A quick guide to dense cartoon shading for beginners

Nov 05, 2026 Last reply: 1 hour ago 4 Replies
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Seeing all these first Far Side pieces pop up is making me nostalgic, so here's the stuff I wish someone had told me before I stitched my first Larson panel years ago. Dense single-colour areas like a dinosaur body or a night sky will destroy your tension if you just keep stitching in one direction. Break the area into small sections and alternate your direction every few rows, otherwise the fabric puckers and no amount of blocking will fix it afterwards.



Use two strands of floss, not three, even though it feels slower. You get way better coverage with less bulk and the outlines stay crisp, wich matters when the whole joke depends on the drawing reading clearly at arm's length. For the lettering, backstitch is fine but stem stitch looks so much better on a curved caption. It also holds up when the piece gets framed. Speaking of which, mount the fabric on a stiff backing before it goes anywhere near a frame, beacuse embroidered panels sag in a hoop-only frame within a year.



Last thing, sketch the panel on the fabric with a water soluble pen and check it from across the room before you commit. Larson's jokes work because of timing and composition, and if the composition is off the stitching won't save it.


I did a Larson piece last winter, the one with the frog and the airplane, and learned the puckering lesson the hard way on the frog's back. I ended up picking out half a night's work because I'd stitched every row left to right and the fabric pulled in like a drawstring bag. Working in small patches fixed it, but I also started using a smaller hoop and moving it more often, which helped more than I expected. On the floss count, I actually went the other way and dropped to a single strand on the outlines with split stitch. Took longer but the lines came out thin and cartoony, which suited the style better than my earlier attempt with two strands that looked a bit heavy around the faces. For transfer, my water soluble pen faded before I got to the caption, so now I trace in the evening and stitch that section the same day. Also second the backing advice. My first hoop-only piece went wavy within months and I had to remount it on stiff interfacing.

That night sky advice rings true for me. My first panel had a huge dark background and the fills came out lumpy and twisty no matter what I tried. What finally fixed it was a laying tool, just a cheap metal stick, that I ran under each stitch as I pulled it snug. It keeps the two strands flat and side by side instead of letting them corkscrew, and suddenly the dense areas looked smooth and even. I'd been fighting that for months thinking it was a tension problem when it was really just twisted floss. Made a bigger difference than anything else I changed on that piece.

Still finding my feet here, most of my stitching has been cross stitch from kits so the idea of sketching my own panel onto fabric feels like a big leap. I wanted to try a panel from a different comic I grew up reading, but my freehand drawing is genuinely bad. Does holding the fabric up against a bright window and tracing work, or does that only suit thinner cloth? I tried something like that on aida once and the pencil never fully washed out, though that fabric might have been the problem. Also unsure what people use for backing, is stiff interfacing a standard craft shop thing or do most of you improvise with something from around the house?

Sign painter here, so the caption bit is where I always jump in. Twenty-some years of lettering vans and shop windows taught me that the caption carries half the joke, so I stitch the lettering dead last, after every fill and outline is done. Anything stitched early gets brushed by your wrist a few hundred times and goes fuzzy before you finish. Also keep the caption band a good thumb's width clear of the bottom edge, Larson always left that breathing room and it's half the reason his panels read clean.

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