Firing Paint Questions

DONE of those are fired paints.

WRONG Dekka's are NOT heated at all.

WRONG Dekka's are NOT heated at all.

Really...here's a brochure from DEKA on the paints...which have been discontinued by the way.

No, it's called rapid drying - reducing the chance of humidity and dust messing up the surface. Modern automotive paints for repainting are sold thick and you must buy a thinner matched to the temperature at which it will be applied - use a low temp (50F) rated thinner at higher temps (80F) and the paint will dry so fast it will not level and will show seams and spray strokes. Use a high temp rated at low temp and it will take a long time to dry, may pick up dust and bug marks, and may sag. For what it's worth, ordinary "enamel" or laquer paints will normally feel slighty slimey or slick if a drop is rubbed between the fingers while firing paints (as opposed to those that are sometimes baked) that contain glass will normally have a very slightly gritty feel to them although this depends on what was used to make the pigment flow which can be a gum, like gum traganth, which is diluted with water, or an oil, like pine oil or linseed oil, which is diluted with mineral spirits, terpentine, or alchohol. Both types of these additives bind the pigment, making it flow when wet and stick when dry. All are burned off at some point when fired to glass melting temps. Some are also used as media for cold paint in which case drying is from evaporation of the solvent and aging of the oil - some oils are non-drying, unboiled linseed oil being one, and need additives to dry.