Inland Cement....

I would try the muratic as a last and dying resort. Maybe score and breakout all the peices and then take utility knife or exacto knife and cut out the putty. Good luck man.

RT

Mo> I'm getting my ass whupped by a panel that is cemented with that damn stuff.

Try warming it up with a hair dryer or a heat gun (practice with the latter just in case it melts the came). Might work. Might not... If the glass pieces are busted anyway, using a small screwdriver as a chisel in the came channel, bamboo chopsticks are pretty cool for this as they're really strong and don't dig into the lead. Good luck with that one eh :) Bart.

Check my most up to date email address at:

I forgot to mention that I had tried a mini-butane torch, too. The problem is that the broken pieces are in the middle of the panel, and I want to move the "good" glass out of the way, rather than doing a "drop-in-and- Bondo-that-sucker" type repair. The problem with using heat is that I can break an adjoining piece....been there. Recently.

I don't need to worry about the remaining cement in the came, I found some small abrasive wheels that just fit into the channels and I can grind it out with a Dremel. These are fiber wheels that are 1" dia, 1/8" thick and have a 1/8" arbor hole. They grind old cement really well, just don't try them on any stuck glass shards, it will eat the wheel up in a real hurry.

My shop smells like Muratic acid now.... but the glass is loose.

I've had good luck using a steamer on stubborn putty. I am using a Eureka model 370 steamer. They are usually on Ebay, around $100.00. They also work great on stubborn dirt. We have cleaned window in situ with good results and very little water dripping.

Thanks, Vic.

When trying to re-glaze my old windows, linseed oil did the job after letting it soak in for awhile (I had to wait about 2 days for it to loosen things). My suggestion is to use the linseed oil since that seems to be the safest way to go about it.

Muriatic acid may have the potential of damaging your glass, though some others may disagree. However, using acid does pose some safety concerns around the home. Personally, I wouldn't use it since you stand the chance of injury or illness. It ain't worth it Bud!!!

Kerosene may work, but that's just a guess. However, care must be exercised to prevent fire.

Good luck!

Mo> I'm getting my ass whupped by a panel that is cemented with that damn stuff.

I use paint thinner and a sharpened linoleum knife to scrape the crap out. Both sides need to get done or the glass won't budge. I charge too much to work on that junk.

Moonraker It's been over a week now. What happened? How did you remove the putty?

Vic

Muratic acid. I used a turkey baster to apply it where needed.

It worked. Nothing else would.

Muriatic Acid, I bet

I would imagine the acid also etched the glass to some extent; not a good thing.

You imagine incorrectly. Muriatic acid, ( weak HCL dilute 28% solution, in most cases) is what is used in Toilet bowl cleaner, swimming pool acid and various other common uses. It attacks the plaster and if Portland cement is present,(as it is in Inland cement) the Portland also. It is used to clean brick/ block and mortar after installation. It doesn't harm the glass.

Having said that, it will harm iridized glass sometimes, depends on manufacturer and solution used, and it will definitely harm "fumed" glass such as that made by bullseye.

No, actually it didn't etch the glass... what Java said.