2 or 3 strands & Multiple needles?

I am starting my BIG project within a few days. At least for me it's a big one. It's the bucilla 103 inch tablecloth. I'm changing the colors to match my Grandma's china colors.

You guys talked me out of using the metalic thread which was a good thing TY. I am more comfortable using 2 strands of thread but should I use 3 for looks? (DMC regular thread). Seems like it does not lay as nicely.

Also IF I use 2 I have been cutting a long piece off the cardboard bobbin then seperating one thread and threading it through and knotting it. This is easier for me to thread and it does not fall off the needle. Any reasons I should NOT do that?

Lastly does anyone have multiple threaded needles and just switch back and forth? Seems it's easier this way to me.

Because I have taught myself I hope I'm not being to insecure, I just don't want to realize halfway through I should have done something differently.

Oops one more question. Anyone use the free standing hoops? I see them at the stores but wonder how well they work in reality since they are pricey. TY so much,

Dana

Reply to
Dana Compton
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If you mean the kind that you sit on, I demanded Santa bring me one of those in my tablecloth phase because holding up the weight of the tablecloth gets tiring. Works great.

If you mean the large quilting hoops, a couple feet across, that stand on the floor, I haven't tried one of those.

Helpful hint for tablecloths -- put the part you're not working on in a pillowcase to keep it from dragging on the floor and getting dirty.

As far as strands, if you're doing printed cross-stitch, use at least 3. If it's embroidery (satin stitch, stem stitch, etc.), 2 is easier to lay flat.

Reply to
Karen C - California

Dana Compton said

I've used both 2 and 3 strands for the few times I've done xs, depending on the coverage or dimensionality I think looks right.

I prefer working with 2 strands because I quite often have to rip out the stitches. I simple unthread the needle and try to pick out the unwanted stitches. I then commit an unpardonable sin -- if I haven't had to cut the thread, I keep stitching with it.

Use as many threaded needles as you can, especially if you can weave the different threads through stitches from one place to another. The backs of my pieces are always messy BUT your's might be neater.

I have an unused floor hoop/frame holder -- unused because the clamp doesn't work anymore I loved it when I first got it. I've purchased several lap frames and hated every one of them because I'm short and they came up too high.

Reply to
anne

For my Teresa Wentzler projects I cut a strip of Aida and put some masking tape along one of the long edges, then I thread up all my needles (or lots of them anyway) and write on the masking tape the symbol and colour numbers just above where I park the needle. I would never go back from this method, it saves so much time and even motivates me to do more as the needle is already to go!

I did see in Nordic Needle's latest newsletter a gadget for holding 10 threaded needles...

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> Oops one more question. Anyone use the free standing hoops?> I see them at the stores but wonder how well they work in reality since> they are pricey.

I have one from Tristan Brooks and I love it! I have the "sit-on" kind. I found that using plastic clothespegs (bought for only this purpose so they're not dirty) to hold the rest of the tablecloth works well, you just sort of roll up the rest and peg it in a couple of spots to hold it. I like the pillowcase idea too - you could put it in the pillowcase and clothespeg it closed.

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in Canada

Reply to
Jeanine3

Depends on distances, etc. I use multiple needles full of thread for some of my NP projects - it has to be that way occasionally. But, I would definitely park my needles on the top - either on a magnet with XS or linen work, or using the pink hair tape, coiling the thread to keep it neat, on NP. You just want to be careful that things don't get all tangled. Personally, in a tablecloth, if it were all XS, I'd probably just work one color than switch to the next. I'd be more concerned with the back getting messy and tangled, as this is something that will have to be laundered.

But, I also will thread multiple needles of the same stuff, and keep them ready on a magnet card so that I'm not constantly stopping to re-thread.

I've not used the quilting hoop things. I do have a largish floor stand that takes scroll bars, and have a project now ready to go onto 23" scrolls

- you might want something like that - designed for needlework, as opposed to something designed for quilting. I don't know about the tension you'll get with a quilting frame - as the quilt sandwich is much thicker than a piece of linen.

Good luck, whatever you do, ellice

Reply to
ellice

If you need to use 3 strands to get the effect you want, like better coverage, you may want to use a laying tool to help keep the strands straight and even. If you use a laying took you will have to have a stand of some sort to hold a hoop. You can try a frame weight to hold the large hoop on a table. A frame weight can be something as simple as a small stuffed animal filled with buckshot or BB's.

I know several really fantastic stitchers who will use one strand doubled. I think that method works fine with silk thread but not so great with cotton as cotton has much more grain than most silks. That may be why your threads do lie nicely. You will find that using two strands will be better. Just make sure the grain goes the same direction when you thread up.

Using more that one needle at a time? Wow what a concept. I thought we all did that especially when we have a project requiring many color changes. It works girl, go for it!

This sounds like a rather LARGE project and getting support from your on-line friends is really a good idea. This way you have support as you stitch your way through the tablecloth.

I have a free standing frame stand that can hold up to 30" scroll bars without an adapter, with it goes even larger, and I do enjoy using it for those large projects. It does have limits as far as size and I have not seen one that could hold something as large as a tablecloth.

Until you get a section of the stitches in you may want to start threads with an away waste knot and come back later to weave in the tail. Also, if you are using a hoop you may want to work a section at a time before moving the hoop. This will lessen the smashing of your stitches. I would work all the colors in my hooped area then move to the next area. You may want to wrap your inner hoop with fabric so you do not damage areas you have worked or the ground fabric.

Good luck on this and please let us know how you are doing with the project.

Alice

Reply to
astitcher

I don't do ccs, and very rarely needlepoint, but I can speak to surface embroidery.

I always have extra needles handy, but I do not thread them up in advance. Rather, I thread one needle with about 12" - 18" floss, and start work. If I finish a flower, leaf, stem or whathaveyou and there is a reasonable amount of floss left in the needle, I park it on a corner of my work and thread up a new one with the next color. I frequently end up with half a dozen or more needles, each with a partial length of floss in it.

For a large item like a tablecloth, I do it in a fairly large size wooden hoop. I also have a "Gripit" floor stand, into which I can put my large hoop when working at home, but take it out to carry along to guild meetings etc. and work with hoop in hand.

As for number of strands of floss - experimentation is the only way. If you have or can find a piece of fabric the same weight and weave as the one you are working on, keep it around for a "doodle cloth". Otherwise, try a little test in a corner of your work well away from the working portion. See what it looks like, then immediately take it out again so that it does not leave permanent holes in the fabric or stains from the floss color.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

Reply to
Olwyn Mary

Seems like it does not lay as

Laying tool? Is that like the stuff you run the thread through?

c stitchers who will use one strand

Grain? Same direction? This is getting more complicated quickly :(

Dana

Reply to
Dana Compton

Dana,

Yep, floss has a grain. If you run the strand through your fingers you can sometimes feel that is runs smoothly one direction and drags the other. You can also see little teny-tiny fuzzies that stick out from the strand and they look to have a direction. You want to stitch in the direction that will make the fuzzies lay back down against the strand. If you are working with silk you can hold the thread in one hand while you pull one strand out from the top. If the remaining bunch drops down straight you have pulled with the grain and the end you are holding goes through the eye of the needle. Takes some practice but can be done.

Laying tools are great as they help you keep your strands of floss from crossing over each other. There are many laying tools around. Some are bone, wood or metal. There is one called The Best Laying Tool and costs about $14.00 at your LNS. I have several made of wood and they are very, very smooth so the strands just slide over them as I lay the threads. When I bought them they were sold as hair picks. Work great as laying tools.

You might want to make a trip to you LNS as ask them to demonstrate how to use a laying tool as it is really hard to describe. This is one where you need to see it and then do it with someone watching you so you know you have it right. If you don't have a LNS close by find someone who does/has done Japanese embroidery.

I hope that helps a bit.

Good luck.

Alice

Reply to
astitcher

Wow, Never caught that. You are my hero now. After looking I realized the difference TY!!

Reply to
Dana Compton
*snip*

And just thrwoing in another idea. I'd venture to say many of us have a huge needle as the most inexpensive laying tool. I still have an 18 tapestry needle with a piece of ribbon thru it that works really well. Of course, Ive also aquired a couple of nice wooden ones, and a BLT - the lightweight, dangerously sharp, always keep in a protective cover one - well, it sits out when I'm using it. The BLT is the one which Shay Pendray recommends (maybe even sells).

The big key to a laying tool use is not to stroke the thread back and forth, but once it's pulled down to about an inch above the ground, then stroke it from the "up" to the "down". Usually once, maybe twice is sufficient (except for those stubbornly crossed threads). Personally, I rarely find myself laying cotton floss, though it depends on the stitch. I do use the tool with silk most of the time, and with decoratice (non-XS) stitches most of the time. Just depends.

I'm sure there's some info on using a laying tool on the ANG website, and others around.

Yup - ditto to that.

ellice

Reply to
ellice

I have an old letter opener which is supposed to look like ivory but is probably plastic. It makes a pretty good laying tool.

(Ever lurking)

Reply to
Judy Bay

If you *really* want to know which it is, hold a lit match to it. Plastic will start melting but ivory will be okay. My mom has one like that, too.

Joan

Reply to
Joan E.

Thanks. I might try that.

Reply to
Judy Bay

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