Fabric Direction

I'm about to start a project that has been in my stash for several years and have discovered that the fabric was cut incorrectly.

If I stitch this project the salvages will be top and bottom. My understanding has always been that the salvage edges should be on the left or right.

Is there anything wrong with stitching on the fabric with the salvage on the top?

If it makes any difference, the material is Jobelan Lurex-silver,

26 ct.

Thanks, nwmag

Reply to
nwmag
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I never care about those directions ,,,, once you cover it up only the direction of your stiches will be visible . mirjam

Reply to
Mirjam Bruck-Cohen

I've heard this too, and ignored it! I stitch on the fabric the way the piece fits best! I'm not about to buy a half yard of fabric when a quarter will do just to make the selvages be on the sides! LOL

Caryn

Reply to
crzy4xst

With an evenweave, there is very little difference with direction. As I understand it, the warp threads are somewhat stronger than the weft ones. This *may* be a factor if the end item is to be hung, like a bellpull. Otherwise, I would do it which ever way was best for you. HTH.

-- Jim Cripwell. A volante tribe of bards on earth are found,/ who, while the flattering zephyrs round them play,/ on "coignes of vantage" build their nests of clay;/ how quickly from that aery hold unbound,/ dust for oblivion!/ To the solid ground/ of nature trusts the mind that builds for aye. Wordsworth.

Reply to
F.James Cripwell

Several years ago when I had a store, I remember asking this question of the Zweigart rep. When a designer (known for being persnickety) was nearby, I got the speech about selvage having to be just so, etc, etc.

As soon as the designer left, he turned to me and said "the designers request that. As a manufacturer, I can see no difference!" This from a man who had a suit made from one of the Zweigart fabrics every year for market!!!

Forget the direction and enjoy your stitching.

Reply to
kitwilli

If it's going to be made into something that is freehanging (like a bellpull) it might make a difference. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it.

Some of the early lurex fabrics were woven with the metallic thread only on one set of threads, and it might affect the look of the finished item if the metallic threads are running vertically. (I'm currently doing a set of ornaments on 18ct Fiddler's Cloth, and it really does matter which way the selvege is running, since there is a visible grain to the fabric.)

-- Jenn Ridley : snipped-for-privacy@chartermi.net WIP: Morning Glory, NoshiRibbons, TicTacToe Sampler, Emperor's Coat II Most recently Finished: FrankenFauna, Water Lilies, Be Mine Stitching log:

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Reply to
Jenn Ridley

I don't think it makes very much difference. I can remember stitching the selvedge to the fabric on a roller frame, which would have made it the top and bottom of a piece, and no harm done. Dawne

Reply to
Dawne Peterson

James , this is not a problem unless she will hang a VERY heavy bell on it, and even than a Strong background can help ... mirjam

Reply to
Mirjam Bruck-Cohen

The only time this will make a difference is when you're hanging something. Draperies are a good example, where the weight of the hems can cause the material to stretch out of shape. It can affect skirts and pants, also.

So, go ahead and use the piece with the selvege on the top and bottom. Not a problem.

Dianne

nwmag wrote:

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

Curious minds want to know which fabric! LOL

Cheryl

Reply to
Cheryl Isaak

Hi:

Think of it this way--How many times have you bought a piece of fabric that has no salvages ? I know I've done it at least 10 times. I don't have the foggiest notion of which side the salvage was on so I just stitch on it the way it fits the design.

Salvages are nice, as the don't unravel and can take a bit more stress. (they are a closer weave than the fabric) And this is where the salvages on the left/right side came from-especially when a scroll frame is used.

Dorsey in VA

Reply to
Dorsey

Reply to
Brenda Lewis

Thank you to the RCTNers that responded to my query!!!

I began stitching on this project today without that nagging doubt in the back of my mind.

nwmag

Reply to
nwmag

The selvages are woven differently than the fabric. If you purchase fabric and can see that the area between the sevlage and the fabric is warped or buckled somehow, then fabric direction becomes very important. This indicates that the fabric was not woven as an evenweave, even though it may look like it, and you will need to keep fabric direction in mind, as it will behave differenly on your frame based on using the weft or warp as the length.

However, since you are not using any significant yardage, and the fabrics currently available rarely have this problem, I wouldn't worry too much about selvages or fabric direction, unless you can see an obvious difference.

As an FYI, here is some of what I have learned from over 20 years weaving and sewing:

You have to take into account several factors when dealing with selvages and fabric direction - what it fiber is made of, what type of treatment the cloth was given, and what you plan to do with it.

You don't need to worry much about selveges or fabric direction with polyester, polyester blends, linen, and linen blends, unless woven or printed with a pattern. These fibers have very little give in them. If woven as a twill, there is some give, but still not much.

Acetates, rayons, cotton, silk and wool all stretch (and shrink) to some extent, with cotton and wool being the worst.

If the fabric is cotton, and not mercerized, it can shink or stretch tremendously. Think about those lovely madras shirts from India - they are not mercerized and so shrink and pull badly upon washing. Cotton fiber has a lot of give in it, and when being woven is stretched very tightly in along the length of the fabric, while the width does not have any such pull put on it. If the thread has been mercerized before the weaving, then the stretch is minimized. If it has not, the length of the fabric can shrink up to 35% after being taken off the loom and washed. I once wove a twin-sized bedspread with cotton yarn that I did not realize was not mercerized. When I took it off the loom and washed it shrank 24 inches in length and only

2 inches in width!

If the material is mercerized (and, no, I don't remember how that is done), then the shrinkage is minimal, and selvage or fabric dimension don't matter. The vast majority of purchased cloth is now mercerized, but I still buy extra when buying yardage and wash every piece before using it - some unmercerized stuff still exists.

If you were using yards of a heavy fabric, say for drapes or upholstery, I would pay very close attention as to whether or not it was mercerized. The best way to find out is to buy about a yard of the material, carefully measure the length, wash it in warm water, dry it in the dryer, and measure again. If the fabric has shrunk less than

1", it is mercerized. Anything more, and you will have to take shrinkage into account when figuring out the amount you need. You also have to take into account that it may stretch back out again over time, especially with cotton or wool.

Reply to
fran

Reply to
Mirjam Bruck-Cohen

And which salesrep? :-)

Reply to
Tara D

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