Needlepoint questions

As an avid needlepointer I still have some questions about the craft.

How do you determine the 'count' of the canvas? I know the standard is 12 -

14- and 18 count but how do you count the openings to determine which count the canvas is?

What is a good brand of scroll frame? I have been through 3 frames. All have broken at the tightening point from so much pressure.( I like my work tight when I stitch) I found a Lokframe which looks to be a better quality of wood (hardwood) rather than pine. Any suggestions?

Thanks :)

Cindy

Reply to
Cindy
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To determine the count, get a ruler and mark off an inch on your canvas with a pencil mark, then count the stitches in between. Then note it on the edge of the canvas so you don't have to do it again :-). Personally, I wouldn't use any scroll frame with canvas. I'd use stretcher bars instead. Stretcher bars are cheap and available in many sizes at mass market places like Michael's, as well as needlepoint shops.

Please note that my experience is with 18 ct mono canvas which is stiff, and with pieces no bigger than 18"x18" or so. For penelope type canvas or rug size pieces the recommendations would probably be different.

HTH, a little, Sara

Reply to
Sara

Do you measure just from left to right? Or do you measure both left to right and up and down counting the openings? Sorry if I am not making sense.

:) My mistake. I meant to say stretcher bars. Is there any well made ones out there? I am looking for lap size, not a standing floor frame.

Thanks Cindy

Reply to
Cindy

"Cindy" ,in rec.crafts.textiles.needleworkwrote: and entertained us with

It is the number of holes to an inch, thus 14 will give you 14 holes in one inch.

Everyone has their favourites. I love my frame from our own Fred, you can see it at

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Reply to
lucretia borgia

Sara ,in rec.crafts.textiles.needleworkwrote: and entertained us with

Not necessarily. I did a rug and had a carpenter make me a frame, on to which I thumb tacked the canvas and moved it along as necessary. It worked very well and meant I could clamp it in my floor stand and sit in my usual chair to work it.

I might have been able to buy stretcher bars big enough but felt that the corners (at that size) needed to be more secure. He used glue and tacks and they held well for the duration.

Reply to
lucretia borgia

The measurement would be in either direction since NP canvas is an even weave -- at least all of the canvas I have ever worked on is even weave :-). As long as you measure along the straight of grain either horizontally or vertically, you'll be OK. CiaoMeow >^;;^<

PAX, Tia Mary >^;;^< (RCTQ Queen of Kitties) Angels can't show their wings on earth but nothing was ever said about their whiskers! Visit my Photo albums at

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Reply to
Tia Mary

I always use a regular scroll frame. Like you, I like my work very tight when I do needlepoint so I use the cheaper, softer wood ones and use thumbtacks on the sides. I don't see how I can get it as tight as I like with the better ones where the sides must be loose.

I buy the less expensive ones and just replace them when necessary.

Lucille

Reply to
Lucille

The 12 - 14 - 18 numbers refer to how many threads there are in an inch. You already can see that 18 has smaller holes, 12 has bigger holes...and so forth.

You might try Evertite bars -- they are more expensive than regular stretcher bars but they come with a small tool which allows you to tighten them as you work on the project. They will keep your canvas tight as a drum.

Katherine in Omaha

You mih

Reply to
stitcher

Great suggestion about the Evertite bars. Given the expense, it might be a good idea to pick a size that you'll use a lot, and get that. Then add to the collection over time. I like them very much. But, I do have a collection of 8". 10", & 14" standard stretcher bars. I do use my K's scroll rod sets for big pieces, especially stockings or large bell-pulls, or long items.

If you have other NP questions - you could try the American Needlepoint Guild website. There are some very good sections with educational info - stitches, blocking, canvas, etc.

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canvas - it is usually, almost always, evenweave - but there is adefinite directionality, and you should orient it with length of project inthe same way as it comes off the roll - i.e. The selvedge should golengthwise, parallel to the long axis of the project. And definitely ifyou're doing tent - try to stitch such that you cross over where the canvasvertical thread is on the top of the horizontal (like on linen). It willsupport better.

Happy stitchin' ellice

Reply to
ellice

I feel I mut comment on this subject of directionality of evenweave canvas. Yes, there is directionality, but in the usual way, it is not important. So far as I am aware, and Dianne knows much more about this than I do, the only difference is that the warp threads are slightly stronger than weft ones. So if you are stitching something like a bell pull, it is a good idea to have the warp threads running vertically. Otherwise, it really does not matter at all.

Reply to
F.James Cripwell

Pull apart a piece of canvas sometime. The difference in the warp vs weft threads is more apparent than in finer fabrics. If you're doing something that will get a lot of wear - which is more likely in NP than in other decorative embroideries - as in a footstool, seat cushion, kneeler, pillow, chair - vice an object that will be framed or hanging then working in the manner which will have it wear the best seems like a good idea. You don't have to agree. Obviously, before anyone starts flaming, there are decorative embroideries that get worn as well - hardanger table goods, decoration on clothing, etc.

Of course, this is just my opinion, based on what I've been taught - I'm quite sure by people & resources with far more knowledge than myself, and for that matter well respected reputations in the wider community of professional needleworkers.

Ellice - who was merely trying to be a bit helpful

Reply to
ellice

Well, you need to remember that Ellice is talking about the heavier even weave needlepoint canvas fabric which bears almost no resemblance to counted thread even weave. It also doesn't behave the same way that counted thread even weave fabrics behave. I've done a few designs on "cross stitch" even weave and done fairly good sized portions of a design in tent stitch, more commonly called half cross for the XS crowd. It doesn't distort the softer fabric the way it does when working on the heavier needlepoint even weave canvas fabric. Back in the long ago dark ages of my adult stitching life when I was doing nothing but needlepoint, I hadn't ever thought of directionality of the canvas. Then I took my Fabric Design class and my teacher said the same thing that Ellice has said -- the lengthwise direction of your needlepoint design should always be placed on the canvas parallel to the selvage to help reduce the distortion of the canvas. CiaoMeow >^;;^<

PAX, Tia Mary

Reply to
Tia Mary

Reply to
woolydream

One shouldn't dismiss which direction to stitch canvas so arbitrarily......it matters very much & important which way needlepoint canvas is stitched.

I was told by Bettieray, a long time needlepoint designer friend many years ago when I first started my design business that it is very important in which direction a canvas is painted & stitched.

The proper way is to stitch the canvas meshes or threads parallel to the selvedge because if the canvas is stitched sideways, the stitches will slip & distort badly causing the canvas to collapse.

Reply to
woolydream

Reply to
bungadora

Thanks Tia Mary, for clarifying what I didn't make clear myself.

Ellice

Reply to
ellice

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