Carved porcelain dragon vase in black glaze

Oct 18, 2026 Last reply: 2 hours ago 3 Replies
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The hardest part of this build was never the carving itself. The maker spent several days cutting an intricate dragon into raw porcelain, treating the whole thing like intricate doodles rather than a planned project, and by all accounts that freehand approach paid off. The real obstacle came after the bisque firing: nobody had guessed how difficult it would be to glaze fine carved lines using the studio's cone 10 glazes. That uncertainty was enough to leave the bisqued vase sitting untouched for four years, with the maker afraid of destroying all that carved detail in one bad dip.



What finally broke the deadlock was a mindset shift rather than a technique change. The maker moved forward only once genuinely comfortable with the possibility of failure, which seems like the honest way through a risk like this. There is no undo button after dipping a carved pot, so accepting that seems healthier than waiting for perfect confidence.



The glazing solution is the detail that stands out to me. The studio's own wax apparently would not have held back the Shig black during a dip, so Aftosa wax was used as a resist instead, protecting the dragon while the vase was submerged in glaze. That kept the black off the dragon's body entirely, and the result is a glossy black ground with the raised dragon relief wrapping around it, carrying segmented light cyan and white geometric patterns with raised borders. The fiery orange-brown ridges, claws, horns, whiskers and high-relief eye sit against mottled tan, brown and turquoise patches that read as clouds or landscape motifs.



The finished piece exceeded the maker's wildest dreams, shown rotating on a stand against a dark background. The open question for me is whether any of that four-year hesitation would return on the next carved piece.


Choosing Aftosa over the studio wax strikes me as the smartest call here. If the house wax would have let the Shig black creep onto the dragon during dipping, switching to a stronger resist before ever touching the bucket was the difference between a finished vase and four years of carving lost in one dip. That is a trade I would take every time.

I would love to know how the dip itself was managed. With fine carved lines and a resist protecting the dragon, was the vase dipped in one motion, or was there any touching up around the waxed edges afterwards? Glazing carving that deep with cone 10 studio glazes seems like it would test anyone's nerve.

One variation worth considering for a future carved piece: treat the dragon as the test case and glaze a small carved test tile with the same Shig and Aftosa combination first. It would have shown how the black behaves against the wax before risking the real vase, and might have shortened that four-year wait considerably.

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