Layering Opaque Glazes

I am trying to do a test where I put down a layer of black glaze or underglaze and then put a layer of white on top of it and have it appear as if the black weren't there at all. This is the most extreme case of a completely opaque glaze covering something below it. I am doing all my tests with a Frit Glaze at cone 06.

I have heard that I can simply do this by using 20% or 30% Tin Oxide in my top glaze, but haven't gotten satisfactory results. I even tried tests with layers of wax, Krylon spray, and gesso between the two layers in order to keep them separate. This however led to crazing, I believe because the two glaze levels were not about to bond with each other sufficiently. I found some interesting success by mixing the gesso directly with the top coat of glaze and I have heard of people also doing this with wax resist mixed into the glaze.

When layers of glaze are applied on top of each other, how much of the colors bleed together instantly versus when the glass formers are soft in the firing process? If some of the glaze layers are mixed into each other during application, does airbrushing on glaze reduce this at all? I would love to achieve my goal without having to intruduce a third firing stage between my bisque fire and final fire.

Am I barking up the wrong tree here? Any suggestions, comments.

c ya

John Rigler snipped-for-privacy@rigler.org

Reply to
John Rigler
Loading thread data ...

Trouble is that glazes ain't paints... they depend on the fact that they melt into a semi liquid state (some is runnier than others) when they mature... Think of runny honey... If you've got two layers of glaze they will mix (as part of convection (physics 101))and you will get an effect that is a mixture of the two (often they don't mix but end up on the surface sort of wrapped round each other (speckledy, leopard skin effects) Other times you will get an effect that is a complete surprise, i.e where one glaze is supposed to be blue, and the other is supposed to be yellow and the reult is a beautiful lustrous red,,, (only had it happen once, but it was amazing...)... Sounds like what you need to look into would be latex resist, where you can apply a glaze onto the surface and then peel off the latex and apply another glaze.. Tho they'll still do things as they interface.... They shouldn't mix too badly before the firing if you apply them before the bottom glaze is completely dry... Hope this is useful... Maybe someone else might know more... Hugs Eddie

Reply to
Eddie Daughton

Like Eddie, I think using latex resist might be the best answer to your problem. It is cheap and easy to use. Let us know how you go :o) A

Reply to
Xtra News

That reminds me--I just had an odd layering result. I dipped a pot in burgundy opulence--commercial flat glossy red, and then in cream breaking red--opaque off-white glaze with gerstley borate that breaks on edges. The result was red with small white speckles when the cream breaking red was lighter and extensive crawling of the cream breaking red over the red when it was heavier. I've never seen a glaze crawl on top of another glaze like this before.

Janet

Reply to
Janet Price

Well if you are trying to get crawling, just start applying stuff like Gesso or Krylon spray between your glaze layers and you will definately get some. I have played around with some commercial red glazes that seemed to turn grey at the edges sometimes.

Reply to
John Rigler

This is absolutely fascinating about the science of glazes. Please don't think this a stupid question but why would you want to put a black under the white? Is there a reason for working so hard to achieve this technique? Is the end result a raised effect?

~Kroozr

Reply to
the ''Kroozr''

I have been following this thread and still am at a loss as to what you are trying to accomplish. If for example you would want half a plate black and half white you would simply dip half in the black, let it dry to touch and dip the unglazed half in white. If you want overlap with the black showing through in some form of decoration, you would dip part in the black, let it dry, use wax resist on the black glaze where you what the black to come through as black and when that has dried, dip in white with the white overlapping where the design is. You can carefully wipe off with a damp rag any white glaze left on the wax resist. Where you overlap though you are not going to get white or black. You may get blue or green - it depends on what oxides are in the black.

Do NOT get wax resist in your glazes! Make sure it is dry before putting the piece back into the glaze.

Reply to
DKat

In article , the ''Kroozr'' writes

When I do that with 2 stoneware glazes I've got the result is akin to streaks, bubbles, and blobs of cream on a cup of coffee.

Reply to
Steve Mills

"Steve Mills" wrote in message news:m10m3IAO$ snipped-for-privacy@mudslinger.demon.co.uk...

My favorite effects come layering one glaze (or even more) over one another. I have overlapped glazes of every type of firing I can think of (cone 04 to cone 10 / oxidation and reduction). You can make this look very geometric in design with dipping or fluid by pouring. A very easy way of making an interesting look is to dip a fraction of the pot in one glaze, do the next fraction in an other, and continue until you have covered the entire pot. I would not do more than 4 glazes since the overlap will give a different color than the single glaze and it can look too busy (two glazes can actually give you 4 colors since glaze A on top of glaze B is different than glaze B on top of glaze A). Plates look really nice with one half done in one glaze and then 2/3rds done in another. This give three bands of color. Then take a third glaze or an oxide mixed in one of the glazes and drip it casually down the middle, over one of the single layers of glaze or over the all three. How much you overlap will add to the effect as well. You need to be careful with this because the overlapping glazes can easily be much more fluid than the single glaze and you don't want the glaze running onto your shelves. If you haven't done this before, I would recommend doing this by pouring the glaze rather than dipping and only doing it on the inside of a plate or bowl. Keep the outside unglazed or just a single glaze. Glaze also runs easily off the lip so don't let the glaze build up heavily there.

I have never had problems with this technique. I know one potter who insist on letting the first glaze dry completely (waiting until the next day to do the second layer). His glazing is some of the best I have seen. I don't have that kind of patience. The glaze gods are generally kind to me.

Donna

Reply to
dkat

I am interested in the different effects that other people talk about, but mostly I am attempting to completely cover over a dark color with a lighter one in order to create a simple image. You can see what I am talking about at my website:

formatting link

So I am simply trying to have a background color, often blue rather than black, and a lighter color in the foreground.

Reply to
John Rigler

Seeing as your designs are pretty "simple" - have you considered using paper resist before you paint on the background, then removing the resist and painting your colors in afterwards?

Personally, I am exploring the oposite of you - I am experimenting with effects if I mix two stoneware glazes and how the color becomes if one or the other is on top and how many layers I mix. Infinite possibilities and great fun.

Marianne

Reply to
Bubbles

Oops, I responded to the wrong thread. Here is an image of what I am doing:

formatting link
am interested in creating pieces like this one quickly over and over again and often want a darker background color with pockets of lighter color within.

I have explored using wax resist and latex but would rather simply put one color over an other and have 100% opacity. I have seen good results with underglazes, actually.

I currently have something called 'Spectrum 1050 Underglaze Base' that seems to work great. I add a little color to it and fire it to somewhere near cone 07 or 06, then can add more on top. I have gotten 100% opacity using this technique with Tin Oxide. Then I put a Fritted Clear glaze over the whole thing and fire to cone 06. If someone knows the formula for this Spectrum Underglaze, it would definately help me out, I figure that it has quite a bit of Kaolin in it, but I also see some shiny specs in it after I have fired it, which makes me think it has a small amout of Frit and/or Silica.

I am really going for repeatability. I could start out with a wax resist, but I found that I still had to be very careful to wipe any glaze off of the wax that simply dried ontop of it. I am looking for the fastest and most reliable way to do this repeatedly, and right now I am just not happy with the amount of extra effort I have had to using the wax resist.

c ya

Reply to
John Rigler

I would think for this you would want a stencil and a negative stencil. Or a Stencil and wax resist. Use a stencil with a cutout for each glaze and spray on your glazes. To us wax resist your stencil would have the cutout of the front figure, spray on the glaze, spray or paint on the was resist and then remove stencil and spray on or dip background glaze.

Getting a black and white with one glaze over the second is going to be near impossible. You could do this with other colors but not black and white. I have scrapped away a darker glaze and then laid in a white to get this type of effect but it is really not the way to go.

Reply to
dkat

I would make a stencil of the pineapple - in 4 pieces, as you have the walls dividing it. Then I would use the stensil to brush on the glaze color you wanted.

Have you tried with using "farbkörper" - hmmm - english! The basic colors without "glaze" in them. If you can put just color powder for the background, I would think the glaze would be mostly unaffected. In any case, when you put the stencil on, you can start out by dabbing away the background from those areas, as the stencil would protect the places you want to keep the color. I would then dab the glaze using the stencil, and then do the whole area (stencil-less) with a clear glaze to finish off.

I have had a load of fun using stencils that are rather thin plastic sheets. Very re-useable and durable.

Marianne

Reply to
Bubbles

Reply to
E (Bet) Anthony

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.