removig plates from bats

It is a paste floor wax, I apply it with a piece of cloth that is not too soft else it absorbs too much of the wax, make sure your bat is clean of any clay. I glue the foam to the bat with woodglue. It usually sticks well and you can clean it off when the foam needs to be replaced.

leatherhard

temperatures,

Sandi: You can do one of two things: Use a wire tool to get between the piece and the bat, and saw through to separate it, or you can let it get leather hard and try to flex the (plastic) bat to remove it. Compressed wood bats are not good for leaving wet clay on to dry. They tend to absorb moisture and swell, which ruins them. Some of us use plaster bats, so the plate can just sit there and the plaster will help absorb the moisture. Then, the plate just pops off the bat.

Once the plate is leather hard, you can flip it over onto a different bat, then center and hold it in place with a "Griffen Grip" or some wads of clay, and trim your foot ring on the wheel (slowly at first, don't go too deep :>)

Have you tried throwing the plate face side DOWN and forming the ring as you work? That way, when leather hard you can flip it over, secure it to another bat as above, and only have to use a stainless rib to smooth the surface of the plate. Some find that easier.

Good Luck! Wayne in Key West

Sandi: Whenever possible, I like to order right from the source. I recently made a switch from plaster bats (which I made myself) to Hydro-bats. They seem to be stronger. Hopefully, they will be less prone to damage from tools, chipping, etc.

You can buy them here:

Hi all, I make bats from hardy backer board and it acts like plaster bats and more durable plus no plaster pop outs is a piece of plaster gets in the clay. I just leave them until the piece pops off. At that time, it may still need to dry a bit before trimming. If you would like to try it or see how it's done, go here, and click on 66 cent bats.

Wayne,

Can you explain this a little further? It sounds interesting, but I can't quite picture how it would work. How would you get the concave inside of the plate, and the rim, if you throw it face side down? Do you trim the face side intead of the underside? Do you throw the plate in sections by attaching a ring to the top surface after doing the underside and shaping it then? (I've done a large platter that way.)

Deb R.

By trimming afterward. All you are really creating is the bottom thickness and the foot ring(s) and the outside (bottom side of the plate) bevel for the edge when you throw. Since the bevel (being upside down) is now "falling" you needn't worry about it drooping, which is why throwing a plate upside down is an attractive method for more inexperienced throwers.

Yes. That is when you create any concavity you require. Remember that the edge bevel and the foot are already done, so only a rib and sponge is required. Of course, if you want to get fancy you can. And you can use a sponge or piece of chamois to true and cleanup the rim. Remember too that you are working with leather hard clay at this point. Might need a bit of moisture, but it's pretty tough stuff.

I've never tried that. I've seen other potters use a coil ring for the footring, but not for the edge. Sounds like i have a bit of experimenting to do! Thanks for suggesting that! :>) I tend to throw everything all at once, the trick of course being that you are not going to throw a 36 inch platter on a 12 inch bat. Use a bat at least the size of the plate bottom. If you are going for an extended bevel on the edge of the plate (say, more than 2 inches, use a bat the size of the outside of the plate, or even larger. If you are trimming slowly enough, you can actually rest the handle of the tool on the edge of the bat to steady it while you shape the bevel. No sense in having the clay (or your tools) wobbling about in space while you're trying to shape the bevel and rim.

Throwing using a larger bat than the plate size means that basically, an inexperienced thrower need only really center the clay, and flatten and compress it. The bevel for the outside edge is created easily, as its resting against the bat. No worries about having to open or pull the clay. Once the clay is leather hard, then it gets flipped and trimmed. Leather hard is much more forgiving for the beginner. Hope that helps! Wayne in Key West

Easy...rub the sponge over the surface with the wheel spinning, then carve with the stainless rib. you can repeat as often as you like, but that way you are not gouging into the clay with a trimming tool (newbies have trouble with gauging depth, and the procedure was designed for newbies, after all)

Thanks, Deb, I will definitely try that. I can imagine HUGE, Voulkos-like forms coming...gods help me :>) I have no room NOW! Wayne