Drunkard's Path nerves

I need to make a creative project for my job and I instantly decided to try, again, a drunkard's path block, or four. The last time I tried those curved seams, the mess landed about 10 feet away when I reacted with my usual maturity to a highly frustrating sewing attempt.

But now, older and grayer if not wiser, I will try again. Are bigger pieces easier to sew than small? Any hints for success?

TIA Dogmom

Bigger vs smaller... unless you're talking miniature -- not sure it makes a big difference.

HINTS:

1) Keep the 1/4 circle on the bottom... the other part on top. 2) Pin... a lot!!!! a whole lot. First finger press a crease in the midpoints of both pieces by folding them over. Next line up those to midpoints and pin. Now pin the 2 ends... I usually put two pins like 1/8 - 1/16 apart at each end.

(This is assuming that you cut your pieces out very accurately. Sloppy cutting will cause you no end of trouble!)

now continue to work your piece ... pinning in the middle.. then in the middle of each new section... then in the middle of each new section... and continue until you have it SUPER pinned.

Then sew (I shorten my stitch length a bit) slowly from pin to pin (if your machine has it -- use the needle down position).

If you have taken care to line up the edges of the fabric and have carefully and FREQUENTLY pinned... and are sewing with the 1/4 pie shaped piece on the bottom.... you should do okay.

I forget how many of these blocks I did for my kimono quilt border (you can see it in my webshots album). Be patient... the sewing should be easy -- if you have taken the time to pin carefully ... and lots of 'em!

Let us know how you do!

We know you can do it!!!

Larger pieces would be easier to sew, but they might not be so effective as part of a design. But, how about doing a 12" block first, just so that you know you can do it. Then you could use squares of different sizes around it - as 12 has so many different factors - you could have squares of 6", 4" 3" and even 2"!

When drawing or tracing your pattern, make marks along the curve (not just in the centre - some people can do it, but I can't!!). Make them so that they cross the curved line. Then, transfer these marks, exactly, to the fabric. Match and pin the marks. You might want to pin in between as well - depends how many you do.

Sew with the 'gathered' side uppermost, so that you can be sure you are keeping the sewing line free of any tucks or puckers. If you sew with the smoother side uppermost, there's no telling what is going on underneath!

Make sure your needle is in the down position. If you don't have that facility, then turn the handwheel to put the needle down before you move the fabric. Don't sew for many stitches before pivoting. The fewer stitches per 'section' the smoother the curve.

I haven't yet tried the Curvemaster foot.

Hope something here helps. . In message , dogmom writes

I love sewing curves. Suggestions, some of which may sound counterintuitive, but they work.

1. Add a quarter inch to the straight sides of your pieces. This gives you a full half inch seam allowance along the outside edges (ONLY Don't add to the curved edges) which will be at 90° angles to get started and finish your curved seams. (Trim to size after pressing.)

1. Don't overpin. If your pieces are cut accurately, then fold to mark the centers of both curves and pin there. If you must, pin at the beginning and move that pin to the end. Remember your curved edges are bias and will stretch out of shape if you handle them too much.

2. Put the quarter circle part on the bottom, the "L" shaped piece on the top to sew. You will be "pulling" (very gently) the curve of the "L" to fit the curve of the quarter circle, so you want to be able to see it.

1. Go slow. As you get practice you can speed up, but don't worry about it at first.

Wish I could show you in person how easy it really is to sew these curves.

Pati,> I need to make a creative project for my job and I instantly decided to try,

We're at odds with each other... when I started - -the only way I could get it right was to pin...pin...pin. I don't pin so much now... but way back when it sure helped me out.

Clearly to each his own... we all eventually figure out the way that works best for us!

LOL

Easy way is not fabric frugal. Sew the curve of choice to a piece of uncut fabric (right sides together if applicable). Clip the seam allowance, flip the curve up and press. Trim it to the right size block. Trim the excess out from under the initial curve at a convienient point.

Good for small projects or tricky spots. Or just to get moving and get a feel for the curves. It could get fabric expensive on a large project.

NightMist

A good way to mark the pattern is with a paper punch. Figure the center, quarters. and wherever else you might want to pin on one piece, mark them in the middle of the seam allowance, then punch them out. Mark the center of the other piece and overlay the seam allowances with the holes on top, match, mark, and then punch the holes on the second piece. Then just mark through the holes as you use the pattern pieces.

NightMist

I made one Drunkards Path quilt. There are two things I found that made this pattern easier: 1. Many many pins, and 2. I stitched the blocks by hand. I know handstitching isn't for everyone, but if you were making just 4 blocks or so, you might be more happy with the result. Handstitching does give more control.

Best regards, Michelle in NV

Dunno where my brain was on that one sentence. Of course you have to cut the previously uncut fabric along the seam allowance of the first curve before you clip it, thus elminating the excess that would be under it. My only excuse is it is DH's birthday, and DD1 is visiting with her new to her sewing machine (more on that later, I _think_ it is a Singer 317.) and I am a trifle distracted.

NightMist

That's a great idea, Nightmist. It would be much easier to see than my myriad of tiny marks!! . In message , NightMist writes