Eleven block quilt setting?

On point in a 4 by 2 pattern would allow 11 full blocks to be placed.

4 + 3 + 4 = 11. That would give you a fine arrangement if you have a very wide and very short bed. Polly

Or like lots of borders. Or need a wall hanging or table topper.

the only arrangement I can think of is diagnonally set, 1,3,3,3,1, which would be 2 diagnonals wide and 4 diagnonals long.

Anne

If you can, find a copy of Smashing Sets by Margaret Miller. It has fantastic ideas for different settings.

top row, 4 blocks, set straight, middle row, 3 blocks, on points, sashing and/or filler blocks between blocks in either row that work and add up to the right numbers. havent got time now to work the numbers for ya tho. see if there is some elements in the big blocks taht can be used as fillers either straight or on point. adding borders as needed here there anywhere. back to sorting for council once every two yrs inorganic, take all your rubbish, pick up. well they take away whats left after the scavengers sort it out. ttfn, jeanne

good numbers there, Polly. if the middle row of 3 blocks were on point, with sashing and small filler blocks between and then... sashing between the top/bottom rows set straight and add more smaller filler blocks there. are there 2 elements from the big blocks you could use as filler blocks perhaps. S = sashing B# = big blocks B# OP = middle row big blocks on point SFB = small filler blocks MFB = medium filler blocks all numbers you could work out on EQ or on graph paper so they all fit.

row 1 S - B#1 - S - MFB - S - B#2 - S - MFB - S - B#3 - S - MFB - S - B#4 - S

1 - 12 - 1 - 4 - 1 - 12 - 1 - 4 - 1 - 12 - 1 - 4 - 1 - 12 - 1 = 68 inches (i hope)

row of sashing and filler blocks here??? or

row 2 S - B#5 OP - S - SFB - S - B#6 OP - S - SFB - S - B#7 OP - S 3 - 17 - 1 - 3 - 1 - 17 - 1 - 3 - 1 -

17 - 3 = 67

row of sashing and filler blocks here??? or

row 3 --same as row 1

obviously play'n with sashing and filler block sizes will even it all out better. i think i got it sorta straight as to what i was think'n would work, but dont quote me, eh.

ok, i'm tired now and more stuff to sort thru here for the inorganic once every two yrs council clear out of junk to put out on the curbside for scavengers and then the recyclers come round and take the rest away. DS and his GF moved out last week. our rental house tenant moved out end of March so that is getting fixed up for sale. its continual job for DH who is doing all the painting of windows inside and out, its a brick and tile roof house so tho not much its got a lot of small paned windows that take a long time to clean, sand, wipe down, paint, scrap off splatters. we had garden clean out that filled a 9 cubic metre skip over easter weekend. still more to come down/out but its going a bit each week into the garbage bin pick up. not reading much here, scanning a bit here and there. this one intriged me tho. just spotted that incredibly gooooooorgeous LIME Green quilt. woweeeeeeeeee. doncha just love it. i keep tell'n y'all that LIME is the bestest but not everyone agrees....yet. thanks for the heads up on that one. started typing this whole thing ages ago then got stuck into more sorting of junk then came back, hence the two msgs bout the same thing but this one longer and full of more details. just my initial two cents worth. :)) ok, back to it again. ttfn again, jeanne

Debra,

I had just that situation when I set the blocks for my college sorority centennial quilt. We have 11 founders, so there are 11 center blocks. You can see the solution in the "Group Quilts" folder of my Webshots album,

's the very first quilt in the folder. Nann

If you turn a block on point the width is 1.4 (plus a tiny bit) of the original block. So a 10" wide block set straight will become a 14" wide block on point.

Based on Jeanne's plan the top & bottom rows would have 40" (4 X 10") and the middle row would have 42" (3 X 14") of block-width, so it would probably be easier to make up the blocks on point and then add sashing to the top and bottom rows to make them a matching total length. In this case the sashing would be 2/3" between each block. If you include a sashing strip on the outside edge of the blocks you would have five strips so the width of the strip would be 2/5". Does that make any sense at all? lol

The overall size varies with the size of the blocks of course, but the proportions remain the same

(eg. 4 X 12" = 48" and 3 X (12X1.4) = 50.4" so you need a total of 2.4" of sashing, or

4 X 16" = 64" and 3 X (16X1.4) = 67.2" so you need 3.2" of sashing,

and so on)

To save dealing with all those odd measures I would probably make a border for the four horizontal blocks and trim them to fit the finished length of the centre row of on-point blocks.