Help!! Pressing Carpenter's Wheel

After all this time, I'm realizing that there are serious holes in my knowledge and experience. Decided to do a Carpenter's Wheel quilt. Points look fine stitching a row together. But I just don't seem to understand how to deal with the points of two half-square triangles in one row against seams in the next row. I can't alternate pressing rows left and right to nest, because the triangle squares don't want to play nice. (Does this make any sense?)

What do you do? And do you press a row as you finish it or finger press as needed as you put rows together and then press seriously after?

Can you recommend any place online to learn more? I thought there was a Quilt U course on pressing, but I don't see it now.

--Confused in Indiana (aka Heidi)

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Reply to
heidi (was rabbit2b)
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Only a minor thought on that one, Heidi. Nobody will die if you press something halfway in one direction and halfway in the other. Just clip the rascal seam midpoint and all will be well and behave. I wouldn't do it on something loosely woven and I wouldn't on something that was going to go to the laundry daily. Also. Do remember. There are just so many bias things going on in a Carpenter's Wheel that you must press and not iron. None of that shoving back and forth. Up. Down. That's it. Sometimes layering will help a little. That means trim one of the seam allowance down to 1/8". Eliminates only a little bulk. Polly

Reply to
Polly Esther

If you can press the seams that come to the edges *open, I think that will make it easier for you. The internal seams will have been sewn down, for the most part, so you can alter them, but the 'edge' ones should be OK. If you can't get the whole seam open, because of prior pressing and sewing earlier in the process, you can open the seam end by having one of the seam allowances tapering (the one on top). HTH. . In message , "heidi (was rabbit2b)" writes

Reply to
Patti

So sorry. I meant you *can't* press the already sewn seams open. . In message , Patti writes

Reply to
Patti

Reply to
Susan Laity Price

Thanks, all! I think I should have asked before this

The good news is that all the bias edges are sewn and the matches are all pretty good. The bad news is that two more seams to sew (or is that good news, too?!) so have a bunch of less-than-elegant intersections.

Susan, I love Jo's question!

Polly, I just read about that kind of clipping, with a suggestion to use a bit of Fray Check.

Patti, I was wondering whether I should have pressed all the seams open. That was easy with 5/8" garment seams, but sounds a little challenging with only 1/4". Time to get out the tiny sharp scissors...

--Heidi

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Reply to
heidi (was rabbit2b)

Heidi, you will not be put in the penalty box if you honest-to-goodness baste those last two seams. If that idea rankles you, you can baste only the Terrible Intersections. We internationally acclaimed quilters have been basting for generations. Bwaaahaha. Polly

Reply to
Polly Esther

Pressing seams open at a quarter inch is not difficult. Have a little practice and you'll be fine. I love the extra flat look. One tip I will pass on: press the seams open with a *dry iron first. Then you can use steam (if you do). It's a little hard on your finger tips otherwise >g< You could also finger press them - but that could get a little tough, too!! . In message , "heidi (was rabbit2b)" writes

Reply to
Patti

The Rowenta travel iron is really good for pressing seams open. It gets really hot and is easily maneuvered into the seams.

Reply to
KJ

I think pressed-open seams are a bit harder to match, as you can't nest them; however, it is better than two seams pressed in the same direction.

Have you thought about how you will quilt it? If the seams are pressed open, stitching in the ditch stitches only over other stitches. When the seams are pressed to one side, stitching in the ditch actually stitches on the fabric right next to the seam.

Julia > Thanks, all! I think I should have asked before this

Reply to
Julia in MN

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