thread

I think I must be missing something when I buy thread, I never seem to see any of the brands that people have mentioned on here as being good, I think someone was raving about Aurafil recently, but whilst I found that brand, I couldn't spot any cotton threads.

The thread I am using for piecing is coats and clark mercerized cotton, size 50, my biggest problem is threading the needle, it shreds so easily.

Can someone tell me what thread they like for piecing and what it looks like - so I can try and find it!

cheers Anne

Reply to
Anne Rogers
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I like the aurifil 50/2ply for piecing. It has an orange spool. If you go to Equilter.com you can see what the different threads look like and then recognize them in the shop. Or you may be able to get them online.

Reply to
Bonnie NJ

I am fortunate that at least a couple of the shops here carry Aurifil thread. And we have a group that can order it at almost wholesale prices and does periodically. Much of the Aurifil is cotton, in various weights.(50-wt. is best for piecing, but the 40-wt. can be nice if you want a little more oomph for quilting.) But they do make a wool too. I have started using Precensia (Sp???) which is made in Spain, for my machine piecing. I do most of my machine piecing with a neutral and got a cone of 60-wt. for that from SewThankful.com. She frequently has sales on the threads and is very fast, and fair on shipping. (At least I thought so. ) Many people like to use Superior brand threads, and they are pretty widely available too.

You may want to check other on-line sources to get the threads.

Pati, in Phx

Anne Rogers wrote:

Reply to
Pati C.

Aurifil is the nicest I've ever used, but it is a bit pricey. Connecting Threads has their "Essential Thread" for a very reasonable price and it is very nice thread. I have been very happy with it.

Julia > I think I must be missing something when I buy thread, I never seem to

Reply to
Julia in MN

I use coats and clark - the poly stuff. It doesn't shred and works just as well as the cotton. I have never had a bit of trouble. Now, as far as the cotton thread goes, I have trouble with it shredding and breaking. I don't like spending 4-5 bucks on a spool of thread that needs replacing every time I turn around. I do buy the good stuff for special things though.

Reply to
Boca Jan

I purchased my last Aurifil 50 wt. cotton thread from Embroidery Discount

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(was directed to them for needles by someone here). They have the best price I've seen (7.50 for the 1422yds. spool) and I always check price when I see Aurifil at a quilt shop/show. I've also done some internet searching on it and haven't beaten their price so far, especially if you add in the fact that for a $15+ order they have no shipping charge. There are a few negatives with them. One is that they don't have a chart or list of colors and color numbers, but I was told they are working on putting one online so we shall have to wait and see. In the mean time, there are several other online stores that do have charts so I use those for reference (you'll have to do a search if you need one because I can't recall any of them right now). The second is that you have to place your thread order via phone not internet. When I called, I didn't get anyone and had to leave a message, however, they were very good at returning my call. I've only ordered from them once, but they were very friendly, and delivery was very prompt. When I"m ready for some more, I will definitely place another order with them. They also have good prices on SM needles, if you're interested.

I used to use the C&C too, until reading about Aurifil here. I tried it and love it and won't ever go back to C&C!!!!!

NAYY, just a happy customer. HTH!!

Reply to
Charlotte Hippen

Charlotte, that $7.50/spool is a great price! But even $9/spool isn't bad, when you consider how much thread is on each spool -- it's so much more than is on a Mettler spool, for example, that it's actually cheaper to buy Aurifil, which I also love and use.

Reply to
Sandy

I have the same problem. I can never find in the local stores what I see and read about on the net. And I am of the mindset that cotton thread goes with cotton fabric, but tell me, does it really matter? Is it ok to use a poly thread for piecing and quilting? I know silk is probably even stronger, but I'm not sure I want to go that far into the education of thread at this point. I'm still learning how to be a needle, fabric and sewing machine snob....I'm not ready for that depth of thread yet...but I do want to know how many use poly thread without a problem?

Dannielle - apologizing for being really tired and possibly babbling at this point!

Reply to
Dannielle

Hey Anne:

I hope you don't receive this twice. I hit a button when I wasn't suppose to.

Anyway. When you cut your thread, cut it at an angle. Your thread will go through the eye of the needle easier and not shread. If its blunt cut it will not go through the eye without a lot of frustration.

I use cotton thread, no matter what the brand, for piecing. The reason being that if the thread has to break it will not cut the fabric and you can mend your quilt easily.

Oh and if you have to wet the thread to get it to go through the needle, don't. wet the needle instead. Weird huh, but it works 9 out of 10 times on the first try.

I use Arufil for both piecing and machine quilting. Just like the look of the finished item.

Kate T. South Mississippi

Reply to
Kate T.

Anne, I just love the "Superior" line of threads, especially the "King Tut". They are virtually lint free, and the colors are beautiful. I also like "Presencia" thread from Spain - it's excellent for piecing. If I'm doing something that needs really precise stitching, I use silk thread - YLI. I buy almost all of my thread online. Sew Thankful has a great thread selection, as does Red Rock Threads. Good luck.

Patti in Seattle

Reply to
Patti S

I have a needle threader built in, I've been watching closely, it doesn't seem to be the threader itself that causes the thread to break, but the angle it pulls up drags it on the top end of the eye of the needle and that's what seems to break it.

I read that somewhere and I've been trying it out, but it never seems to work for me! I bought some self threading needles recently, I don't love them, but they are useful for tasks which otherwise would involve a lot of threading, like weaving in ends.

Cheers Anne

Reply to
Anne Rogers

Now there! It is not polite to raise questions of religion in mixed company!

Poly thread will never be a problem, depending.

If the quilt is going to get rough treatment at all, match the fiber content of the thread to that of the the fabric. If the thread is stronger than the fabric, any damage the quilt takes will likely be a real problem. Repairing a split seam is easier than replacing a patch beacuse the fabric tore along the seam.

If the quilt is a WUH and the only handling it gets is to be taken down to be hand washed by laundry elves the first Tuesday after every full moon, I wouldn't worry about it. If it is a quilt that will possibly be called into duty as a tent, taken on picnics or to games played out of doors, be the rope in games of tug of war played on twin beds, or used by Rapunzel to escape from the tower (top bunk), I would match to fiber.

NightMist

Reply to
NightMist

The only thread sold locally is Coats and Clark All Purpose mercerized cotton-polyester. The spool doesn't list a weight. It is just plain ole sewing thread, and I've used it all my life as that is the only thread that has ever been sold locally. The cotton-poly has given me no problems with any sewing project before. It has been used for many quilts that have been made in this area over the years, so it's good enough for mine too. I'm not making heirlooms, and have no wish to become snobbish about my materials.

I did pick up a couple of spools of Sulky variegated rayon thread at a sale but later read that it isn't good for making applique quilt blocks because rayon is weak if wet and I do wash my quilts often. I also need special needles to use it, and I can't find the right size. The correct type of needles I found locally were too long for my machine. I don't know what I'll do with the rayon now. It's pretty stuff and would have looked so good used for machine satin stitched applique. I just wish I knew how to use it. Debra in VA See my quilts at

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Reply to
Debra

Perhaps use it for quilting Debra. I know I don't often make bed quilts; but I use rayon a lot for the many wallhangings I do make. I love the little sparkles you get. . In message , Debra writes

Reply to
Patti

I like the look of rayon too - and I've got lots of it, different makes, but find it breaks a lot. I've got the same machine as you - have you got a secret way of keeping it whole? The last time I used it I seemed to have hundreds of ends to sew in afterwards.

Perhaps with your little quilts the short runs don't give it time to break.

Reply to
Sally Swindells

Yes, doing small quilts probably does help; and I also go extremely slowly!! That might help, too. I've had rayon break if I have been doing lots of FM quilting and perhaps one spot, accidentally gets a bit 'dense'.

I mostly use Madeira - just have most of that. I did bring some Sulky back with me from the States, and I love that too. For really tiny quilting, I might use 100 wt silk.

Have I described to you the good way of doing 'ends'? Saves hours!! . In message , Sally Swindells writes

Reply to
Patti

You can't just leave it like that, Pat! It's cruel. :-)

Reply to
Tutu Haynes-Smart

Oh! Sorry Tutu - I heard it here and have repeated it a few times 'over the years'; I just thought it might not have been in the last year or two. Here it is then:

Take a needle with quite a large eye. Take about 24+" of thread (I usually use poly thread, as it needs to be strong). I usually use an easily seen colour, but not thick. Double the thread, and thread the two raw ends through the needle-eye. This gives you a nice loop. Pull all thread ends to the back. I usually knot the pairs of threads, especially if they are slippery rayon or silk. Then go over the quilt in convenient sections - Place each pair of threads (or individuals, if you are doing it that way) within the loop. Hold on to the ends with your free hand. It is possible to use this method with very short ends of thread - I have done it with a broken thread of just over a quarter of an inch - you just have to hold on to the scrap with your finger nails - or tweezers - until it goes under the surface. Put the needle into the fabric as close to where the threads emerged as possible. Push the needle through the batting for no less than half an inch, and bring it back up to the 'outside' again. Pull carefully, and as the loop goes into the middle of the quilt sandwich it will bring the thread ends with it. Pull right through - might need a little sharp tug at the last point . Carefully snip off the spare thread ends. I say carefully, because the threads will have pulled a tiny bit of fabric proud of the surface - you don't want to snip that off!!

This can be done much quicker than it takes you to read this!!

OK? >gg< . In message , Tutu Haynes-Smart writes

Reply to
Patti

Thanks, I'll try this next time.

Most of my Rayon is Madiera, and I have some Sulky as well as some unknown varieties, and I do go very slowly, but somewhere there is some friction on the thread and it snaps. Very annoying, and I have such pretty colours in it.

I use the Jeans needle size you recommended, but am never sure where I should have the tension. Tend to change it everytime it breaks!

Reply to
Sally Swindells

Oh dear, the dreaded 'T' word. I honestly have no real idea at all about tension. I know to lower the tension for quilting - to '2' on our machine, but that's about all. I just manage with that. I really wish I knew the ins and outs of such things! Sorry I can't help with that aspect, at all. . In message , Sally Swindells writes

Reply to
Patti

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