13th century falconer's costume male & female

I went to a very nice small craft fair yesterday and may have a new client for medieval costumes, therefore I am sounding you out on the finer points. The couple are falconers and have been inundated with jobs since coming to France as in this area we do have a lot of medieval history so have a lot of craft fairs, summer exhibitions etc. One of their main employers/ organisers is very insistent that they get authentic costumes made but won't let them use the patterns they have. I have done a quick google and have found these

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The lady is not averse to a long dress and surcoat but would like to be able do something about the sleeves as it's awkward to put a big leather falconers glove over the top. The husband has so far refused the drawstring pants that have been offered on loan by their organiser. So I can't see being able to get him into hose as shown in the pictures I have found. The general medieval markets are quite happy for exhibitors to wear any fabric as long as it's in the right style but these organisers are being very strict, no cotton only linen and wool. This is problematic here as most of these things take place in the summer and our temperatures are hot, we had 32°C yesterday. The thought of layers of linen and wool are very off putting for this couple. The lady suggested making a single dress that looked as if it was a dress with a surcoat to save on wearing extra layers, that went down like a lead balloon!

Any suggestions would be welcome. I am about to do a scout for fine linen to see what I can find. Thanks

Claire in Montréal France.

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Reply to
Claire Owen
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Layers of wool and linen don't have to be hot.

Linen is better in the heat than cotton.

You need to do a little research to see exactly what was worn in the area in the heat of summer. There are no particular dress forms for falconers as such: they would wear the normal clothing of their time and place, with the additions of the gloves and other specialist items for the birds. Most modern equipment for this is much the same as for the

13th C. They should try to make sure that their equipment is made from natural dyed leathers and linens is all.

You may have to hunt about a bit, but light weight linen is ideal, as is Nun's Veiling: a light weight wool challis. Look for plain fabrics in woody or natural colours.

Take a look at Patterns of Time: they have a wide range of patterns for many eras.

Reply to
Kate XXXXXX

Thank you Kate, I agree with you about linen, I have emailed Croft Mill to see if they have any light linen. I had not thought of nun's veiling, I will see what I can do about that. Any thoughts on the sleeve shape on a dress for the gloved hand? I have got as far as thinking perhaps a bigger sleeve that can be rolled up and or fastened (I hardly dare use the word buttoned)out of the way. I know that tighter sleeves were the order of the day but the droopy / pointed ends are problematic. I will now go and look at Patterns of Time. Thanks. Claire in Montréal France.

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Reply to
Claire Owen

I found some good pattern on that site very useful. I have also found some good photo ideas for the husband which I thought I would share, I like the idea of a long tunic as he could get away with a more conventional fastening to his trouser and they would have to strip search under his tunic to find it!! Well if they are going to be fussy. I like.

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it could be good in the heatand
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Claire in Montréal France.
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Reply to
Claire Owen

Remember that MOST pics are of richer folk and of idealized dress from that early. Working folk had more pragmatic versions. The tighter sleeves were often buttoned from wrist to elbow with small covered buttons made from little bits of cloth stuffed with wool or cloth, and with worked loops for linen under things and cloth loops for outer garments. Working people had sleeves that could easily be rolled out of the way. There is some evidence for garter like fastenings to keep them up, or tabs with buttons like some modern shirts.

Reply to
Kate XXXXXX

Sounds like a plan, a very pragmatic suggestion. A lot of the pictures I have found are made up in modern fabrics but that's ok by me it's the ideas that count for the moment. Then my customer can make a final decision.

Claire in Montréal France.

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Reply to
Claire Owen

Remember that over tunics can be made with elbow length sleeves.

Reply to
Kate XXXXXX

Claire, this is not my area of expertise, go with what Kate recommends.

I did find:

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if you use control/+ you can enlarge that image.

They look like mostly 3/4 sleeved loose tunics, with perhaps a tighter fitted (knit?) sleeve on an undergarment, hitting about calf length, belted or not... One in the middle row appears to be a sleeveless outer garment, with red long-johns underneath. ;-) since they wore hose, perhaps they knit the undergarment sleeves as well?

also:

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down to the fourth picture (I've no idea how "authentic" they are)
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HTH,

Reply to
BEI Design

The hose were bias cut and seamed up the back rather than knitted.

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Reply to
Kate XXXXXX

Thanks, I always enjoy adding to my costume knowledge, even though I never intend to make faithful replicas.

Reply to
BEI Design

Claire, I am pressing 144 cotton pillowcases, pretty mindless activity, so my mind has lots of time to wander. I am hearing tiny little warning bells. It may just be my tinnitus, but the above makes me wonder if your customers' potential employer isn't setting them up to fail. And if they fail they may blame YOU, no matter how carefully you research the "authentic" style and fabric.

That said, if this were my project, I would have an iron-bound "NO REFUNDS" contract, initiatled at every stage, and 100% ofthe cost of fabiic and estimated labor paid UP FRONT.

The whole "[...] is very insistent that they get authentic costumes made but won't let them use the patterns they have." and the response to your customer's suggestion about how to avoid extra layers "that went down like a lead balloon!" just shouts, "Use Caution!

Reply to
BEI Design

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They look terrific

There is a woman in the group photo wearing a dress with a slashed sleeve. I must research to see how acceptable that would be.

Claire in Montréal France.

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Reply to
Claire Owen

Yes I think caution is needed, however I do understand the mentality of the organiser types here in France it's a demi-god delusion. They have been doing that way for years so therefore they are right it's typical in this region ( I know it happens elsewhere in the world also)

My client says the worst thing about this gig is that there are two committees that work together to organise the spectacles one frequently disagrees with the other! the big mouth of one is the one who is very "pointu" on the costumes. She has lent my client a dress so I shall be able to get my hands on that and use it as a pattern. This organiser keeps on about everything having to be 13th century as if the middle ages only existed then! Other gigs they do are less fussy. I have done what I can for now I am waiting for the call to arms! Claire in Montréal France.

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Reply to
Claire Owen

Googling produced this reference, apparently they do the falconry demonstrations for English Heritage.

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Reply to
Alan Dicey

Le 31/05/2011 19:46, Alan Dicey a écrit :

Nice link , thank you. My client is coming to see me a week on Thursday so will show her everything then. Now I am searching for linen, I am going through Kate's list. I would prefer her to chose so i am bookmarking madly.

Claire in Montréal France.

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Reply to
Claire Owen

That explains everything! ;-}

Reply to
BEI Design

So one has coerced the other into pretending to hire falconers, and the other is not-too-subtly getting rid of the unwanted act.

(Yes, I do hang out on a fiction-writers' group, why do you ask?)

Reply to
Joy Beeson

Doesn't it just!!

Claire in Montréal France.

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Reply to
Claire Owen

Sorry that I butt in this late - and me from the re-enactors's party! I can only say that long sleeves were the thing in summer in those days since there was no suntan lotion in ye olden dayes. Linen is super! I spent three very hot days in a linen dress and although the fabric wasn't the thinnest and I do tend to sweat a lot I was very comfy in it (it's true; linen 'cools', as we say here).

As for style - the lower the class of the impersonation the easier it is to dress up. Kirtle and hose for him, simple long sleeved dress with another one with half-length sleeves on top for her (try the 'Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Berry).

Linen - if you (= your customers) don't mind steep prices and love quality, try

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they have all kinds of linens, very thin ones, too, and all kinds of colours. But not cheap, I'm afraid. I'm afraid I was of no great help, but I did my best, and I'd love to hear what becomes of this project. The whole affair doesn't perchance take place at that castle they are building with medieval techniques?

U.

Reply to
Ursula Schrader

P.S.: If you need help with translations I'd be more than happy to assist since their English product details are not always existent. ;-)

"Ursula Schrader" schrieb im Newsbeitrag news:is5ubu$8t1$ snipped-for-privacy@news01.versatel.de...

Reply to
Ursula Schrader

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