? about Thinsulate lining of classic coat

sound like a beautiful coat! This might help you. I hope anyway. Maybe 3M would have some sort of help facility?

Dear Fey, Thanks for the info - it actually sort of recommended a detachable lining, due to the cleaning difference between the Thinsulate (machine) and wool (dry clean or if I dared wool progamme on machine and a thorough steampressing)

The recommendations also said to make identical Thinsulate and lining pieces and zigzag them together before sewing the Thinsulate+lining coat. That makes sense to me, but I'm still not sure whether shoulder pleats will be a good idea.

What is your opinion on the detachable lining or not issue?

How and where do I attach a detachable Thinsulate lining to the coat if I want to make a full lining including sleeves ? I'm used to seeing the classical buttoned types of detachable lining in linings without sleeves.

I can imagine 4 solutions:

1. a classical buttoned detatchable Thinsulate lining with gray lining on both sides and additional gray lining on the inside of the woolen coat. Buttons placed along neck and front perhaps armholes at least if I forego thinsulate lined sleeves.

1. A zipped Thinsulate + one side of gray lining to the woolen part of the coat

1-2 very long zips in the front opening that start in the neck might distribute the weight and tension of the Thinsulate lining better than buttons. handstiched lining to sleeveopenings - easy to remove and redo after cleaning.

1. A zipped Thinsulate lining with gray lining on both sides and additional gray lining on the inside of the woolen coat.

2. just ignoring the cleaning issue because this is a nice coat in a colour that camouflages well ;-) Make the Thinsulate + gray lining zigzagging each pattern piece together first and then sew the lining coat together. Finally handstich the lining to the woolen coat. If cleaning is needed, the lining has to be removed and restitched afterwards.

TIA Cecilie

Dear Cecile,

I wouldn't bother to make a detachable lining. We have very cold winters here, and the (purchased) detachable linings sit in the closet unused.

Instead, cut the front, back and sleeves of Thinsulate, and remove the seam allowances. Then, butt the edges together and sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves while the pieces are flat, then sew the entire side seams and sleeves as one--again, by butting together. Then, simply hang the interlining to the inside of the coat, and apply your nice lining as planned.

You need to sew the sleeves into the coat before you go any further. Make the lining, but don't sew the sleeve linings in until after the body has been sewn into the coat. This gives a better feel. The armholes of the lining are then sewn in by hand. My tailoring teacher had us slip stitch the armhole once, then go around it again, in between the prior stitches.

Teri

Dear Teri, Thanks a lot for your input - I'm sorely tempted to try your suggestion without the detachable lining etc. but I have some questions.

1. I'm not sure the butting tecnique will work with this particular model Vogue no. 1266 unless I misunderstood you and butting = overlapping ?
   formatting link
   It's model B navy blue double breasted no.2 from the leftIt's a classical doublebreasted reasonably fitted woolen coat with "over- and undersleeve", princess seam front and back sidepieces in addition to the front and backpieces.I think the breast seams curve too much to for the Thinsulate to be butted together.

I think the least bulky and durable way to seam the Thinsulate+lining pieces together is probably by overlapping the pieces and using some zigzag variety. What's your experience with this method ?

1. If I made the Thinsulate lining an independent layer as you suggest - where and how would you attach it to the outside wool or the inside lining ? The neck, front and sleeve opening as the lining or elsewhere ? Doesn't just hanging the interlining to the inside of the coat make the layers slip and skew apart over time ? I'm particularly concerned about the shoulder and bust seams.

I discussed the problem with my mother, who's rather experienced when it comes to fitting classic tailored clothes but inexperienced when it comes to outdoorsy fabrics. I've also inherited a slightly milder version of the OCD type sewing mentality from her. You know the "measure 7x, cut once, steam all seams, why bother at all if the final result isn't as good or better than store bought" drill ;-)

Her arguments in favour of bothering with a detachable lining after all were:

1. the technical specifications provided by Fay were specific and sensible - drycleaning, steaming or pressing of Thinsulate is apparently a nono
2. It is a long coat, and since I bike to and from work etc. cleaning might be necessary more often than I hope due to snow/bike oil/daughter-related-stains
3. it's unrealistic/time consuming in the long run to remove both Thinsulate and inner lining from the woolen shell and dry clean especially considering argument 2.
4. there's a risk of skewing the coat if one did actually only dryclean the woolen shell.

She has a Burburry coat with a detachable lining that is zippered on - must have a look at that one.

1. How come you don't use your detachable linings - too bothersome to attach (buttons or zip), doesn't fit well enough, not cold enough after all ? I wanted this coat to replace an old lambskin fur that is the only thing that has kept me properly warm on the bike, long walks and outdoor playing/standing. I haven't sewn fur/skin/leather and think it is too bothersome to start now, that's how the idea of Thinsulate lining came up originally.

1. Have you tried drycleaning Thinsulate lined clothing ?

I'll google 3M Thinsulate and look further into the drycleaning issue, but I'd still love to hear about everybody's experiences with Thinsulate. Will get back later with news on the coat anyhow (progress will be slow as always that's why I stick to classic models ;-))

Thanks again Cecilie

Dear Cecille,

If you use the lining pattern pieces to cut the Thinsulate, you shouldn't have any trouble. I looked at the sketch--it's lovely. Butting is better than overlapping; too bulky.

We don't use the zip-in linings because we don't play in the snow anymore--we go straight to the mall, and a heavy coat would be too cumbersome. The interlining can be drycleaned. I made a jacket for my son when he was little and washed it with a Thinsulate lining.

Teri

Hi Cecilie,

Sounds like a great project. My posh store bought rain coat, has a detachable 'thinsulate' (well it may be and may be not - the coat is very old!) lining.

The raincoat is double breasted and has deep facings, and is fully lined with a standard lining fabric. It then has a detachable 'thinsulate' lining. This is fixed via a zip round the outside of the front facings (from bottom right, round the neck to bottom left) and one button on each sleeve - with a loop on the 'thinsulate' lining and the button at the top of the cuff facing on the inside of the sleeve. The stuff my coat lining is made out of is sort of brushed cotton on the inside, and a shiny surface where it faces the wearer on the inside, so no issues with being able to slip the coat on and off whether or not the detachable lining is in the coat.

HTH

Sarah

Dear Teri, Sara, Fey and everyone else, I'm ready to proceed with the Thinsulate lining for the coat pattern Vogue

1266 is what I learned about Thinsulate in general from the Scandinavian agent that sells it to the clothing industry and the drycleaner that cleanses all the costumes of the Royal Theatre/Opera/Ballet in Copenhagen:

1. The CDS 150 Thinsulate I use officially says it can be drycleaned "Drycleaning programme F" - whatever that means apart from it being a dry drycleaning technique. Inofficially "Careful Drycleaning Programme P1 or 1dot" works fine.

In Scandinavia, "Drycleaning programme F" has been abandoned/requering a very special permit since it is environmentally unfriendly. There's pretty much only a couple of drycleaners in Denmark that uses this technique. Instead drycleaners uses the "P programme", which is a wet/damp drycleaning technique where the garment is placed on a dummy and cleansed somehow.

1. The melting temperature of Thinsulate is app. 157 Centigrades. It will get pressure marks at 77 Centigrades, but can inofficially be ironed with a regular iron that is lukewarm ie. for ironing wool or silk.

1. The Danish postal service and the railways use Thinsulate in their uniforms - the clothes have been tested and can be machine washed up to 60 Centigrades. The Thinsulate interlining is made independently of the lining - pretty much as Teri suggested. Inofficially it is not mandatory to edge-zigzag or quilt the individual pattern parts of Thinsulate to the lining parts.

2. When washed and possibly drycleaned with a "wet method" Thinsulate will shrink 3-4% in every direction. Like a pair of washed jeans it will regain its size with wear. The Thinsulate agent strongly recommended to leave the Thinsulate interlining to hang free in the bottom of the coat and the sleeveopenings.

1. Some Danish clothing factories have used Thinsulate with thinner wool qualities for jackets. The advantage, besides from the thermo- and waterrepelling qualities, was apparently that it saved on the Vlieseline/stabilizer (in English ?) because it is a little stiff in itself. I can imagine this could look quite nice in a long coat.

How I plan to proceed Friday: A. right now my Thinsulate is washed on 60 Centigrades in order to preshink it to the max.

B. I'll cut the Thinsulate interlining after the lining parts as Teri suggested, try to butt it together (new technique for me) with a wide zigzag seam either by machine or hand in the curvy parts. However I won't make any movement pleats in the back.

C. make the gray lining as an independent lining. I'm *so* glad I didn't have to make a detachable lining ;-)))

D. connect everything in the shoulderseams and the front and neck seams unless any of you recommend something else. The gray lining will be handsewn in the bottom of the coat (?) and the end of the sleeves.

Thanks for all the input - I'll mail news on the progress as it comes along. Cecilie

might want to search the Threads magazine site to see if their article on insulating coats with Thinsulate is online.

Dear Melinda, Thanks for the advice - I've ordered the relevant backissue from October

2005. Since I'm living in Europe, it'll probably take the better part of a week before it arrives...

If you or anyone else have the article at home and the time to look at it again - couldn't you let me know if I can cut the Thinsulate after the lining pattern parts as Teri suggests ? I'd really like to start cutting either today or Sunday - the sewing will have to wait a little longer anyway.

Here in Copenhagen it is still just a bit warmer than the freezing point 0 centigrades, but it is sunny and there are a few spring flowers in the gardens already.

TIA and have a great weekend. Cecilie

"Mel>> Dear Teri, Sara, Fey and everyone else,

> You might want to search the Threads magazine site to see if their article > on insulating coats with Thinsulate is online.