This is a very basic sewing question. I'm making a cotton-knit dress, very simple, except for the neckline. The instructions said to straight-stitch
5/8" in, then turn under and narrow zig-zag 3/8". I want to make a facing instead since it was gaping too much. How exactly do i make the facing, and how wide should it be??? thanks... i know this is very basic, but i'm kinda starting over.
Use the pattern pieces for the garment: Trace the places you want to face, and draw the other edge of the facing about 2.5" from it - or a little wider. Use a fusible interfacing for knits on it if you can get it. For instructions about applying facings, take a look in Kate's Sewing Room on my web site - url below.
You might consider cutting bias binding, lycra binding, or whatever the greatest stretch is on your fabric (probably cross grain) and using it as a neckline binding. *Most* knits now don't have facings, and doing the standard 2" wide facing to the inside might mark your garment as "homemade", especially if it shows through. The advantage of using a binding with a little stretch is that you should be able to remove a bit of the gape with it.
Another approach to using a facing on knit is to cut it using the dress pattern's neckline, then making the facing as wide as you like, and shaping the free edge (away from the neckline) as much as you like. Sew it in so the facing is on the OUTSIDE of the garment, and stitch the free edge down in some manner. Then the facing becomes a design element, and not something that shows through from the inside.
Did you remember to stay stitch the neckline as one of the very first things in your construction? That might explain the gaping -- fabrics can stretch out of shape easily during construction if they're not staystitched.
Pretty good book: Easy Guide to Sewing Knits, by Connie Long.
Kay Lancaster snipped-for-privacy@fern.com
Thank you! :-)
OK, i made a binding for the neckline, stretched it slightly as i applied it and i'm hand-sewing it on the underside just to be sure stitches won't show. It looks great, and seems to have taken up the gap very well.
Lesson learned: Stay-stitching is not a waste of time. :-)
I had made the exact same dress in a poly double-knit type of fabric and the turn-it-under-and-sew method worked fine, but this cotton t-shirt knit is ornery!
Thanks for the advice here.
InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.