Help needed for waistcoat/vest

Dear Helena,

Before you do anything, measure the pattern. Most waistcoat patterns have a buckled belt or tie belt on the back to draw it in. There may already be enough there, and you can omit the belt on the back.

If this is still not enough, subtract the difference between what you need and what is there. Divide by four. This is the amount you will be adding to the front and back. Make a new pattern--the easiest way to do this. Trace around the existing pattern, then remove the seam allowances. This is your working pattern. Now, trace the front, front neckline and shoulder. Stick a pin in the end of the shoulder, and pivot the pattern outwards the amount you need to add. Trace the armhole. Stick a pin in the underarm seam (end of armhole), and pivot the pattern back, so that it is parallel with the center front. The original front will have moved away from the new front by the whole needed amount.

Repeat for the back, and don't forget to add back the seam allowances.

Teri

Thanks Teri

I didn't think of the back belt, but there is one. Also, when I looked closer at the pattern there is very little shaping at the waist, so I am sure that by just omitting the belt it should fit OK. However, I think I will make it up using an old sheet omitting lining etc, just to be sure. If not, I will use your instructions. I don't want to ruin expensive fabric.

Thanks again, Helena

How much ease is in this pattern? Measure him, then measure the pattern flat, minus seams on each edge for the seam allowance. If the chest and waist will fit him then you could just use that size. Does it have multiple sizes printed on the tissue? You could always blend the sizes together.

Here is a quick how-to on blending the sizes together, its for swimsuits, but its what I have saved in "my favorites" and I know it works for regular clothes too.

is about 1/2 way down the page.I don't know alot about mens clothes or how they are supposed to fit, how much ease is needed in what areas. Hope you can find a method that suits you, let us know how it turns out!

Michelle Giordano

Dear Helena,

Professional designers always make prototypes before using their good fabric. Even small changes make the difference between something that fits, and something that looks great. I've been sewing for more than fifty years, and I still do muslins for my garments before attempting to use my good fabric. I love to work in silks and wools, and love to do tailoring. I'd much rather make a mistake in muslin!

Teri

In article , of

uttered>Professional designers always make prototypes before using their good >fabric. Even small changes make the difference between something that >fits, and something that looks great. I've been sewing for more than >fifty years, and I still do muslins for my garments before attempting >to use my good fabric. I love to work in silks and wools, and love to >do tailoring. I'd much rather make a mistake in muslin!>

A word to the wise: What they refer to in the US as muslin, we in the UK know as calico. If you use English muslin for your toile, you'll end up with a flimsy disaster - or dusters.

Dear AJH,

We have all weights of muslin here, some used for permanent things, such as under upholstery or slip covers, some lighter, used for toiles. So I had better clarify by saying a "muslin" garment here is any fabric on hand that is of similar weight and hand to the good stuff. I usually use light colored stuff, so that I can write on it, put on the grainlines, etc., then use it for a pattern if major changes are necessary.

Thanks for reminding me that, though we speak the same language, we sometimes have different meanings for the same things.

Teri

In article , of

uttered>We have all weights of muslin here, some used for permanent things, >such as under upholstery or slip covers, some lighter, used for toiles.> So I had better clarify by saying a "muslin" garment here is any >fabric on hand that is of similar weight and hand to the good stuff. I >usually use light colored stuff, so that I can write on it, put on the >grainlines, etc., then use it for a pattern if major changes are >necessary. It isn't muslin, it's calico ;) Muslin is more like what you call cheesecloth - but our cheesecloth is heavier than that.

Absolutely - like the old chestnut about erasers and prophylactics, not to mention the word for the bit you sit on ...

"Helena Bennett" a écrit dans le message de news: d3lpeb$le8$ snipped-for-privacy@sparta.btinternet.com...

I would agree with all the others that a toile is what you need. Mesure around your partner in all the places you can think of. Also think about the length, I make a lot, and I mean a lot, of waistcoats and I have a big thing about the length. There is nothing more anoying to the wearer than having to constantly having to tuck their shirt back beacause it pokes out under the waistcoat every time they raise their arms up; to make a toast, scratch their nose, lift up a child, you get the picture. I try to make sure that the bottom of the front where it is a little Vee ! !button ! X / \

-------------/ \----------------- X marks the spot, I hope the drawing makes sense.

Sits in the centre of where a belt buckle would be then the small amount of fabric that falls below that covers the persons waistband even when they are stretching. So many people find that they weren't comfortable when they were wearing a waistcoat simply because they were too short although they don't realy know why it was uncomfortable. I have some instructions on making up waistcoats in the bagged method on my personal website ( not selling anything there) You are welcome to look if you think that would help at all.

Claire in Montréal, France.

I have now made a prototype in a stiff cotton, making up to the nearest waist size (the largest size on the multisize pattern is still two sizes too small at the waist). I had hoped that not putting straps/buckle at the back would help, but of course it doesn't. Although it fits round the waist it just pulls the side seams forward.

I will be trying again today. I'll let you know how it goes.

Helena

In article , Helena Bennett of BT Openworld uttered

Ummmm ... {dons fascetious hat} ... has he thought of going on a diet? Is this a man or a weeble?

I *think* you're going to have to go with the size that fits the chest, and alter it. If you take the "deficit" in waist measurement between the pattern size (not the finished garment measurement) and hubby, and divide by 8, then add 1/8 to each side front and centre front, and 1/4 to each side back seam, all at the bottom points, then re-draw the lines from the top to reach, this should something like accommodate his tum.

After that, he needs to emulate Winnie Ther Pooh and take up stoutness exercises. Certainly do not allow him to go to Rabbit's house for elevenses.

"OH Bother" LOL

He shall become stuck in the door, and then in a few days the vest will fit him!

Michelle Giordano

In article , dnmgiordano of Shaw Residential Internet uttered

You'll have to read him sustaining stories in the meantime

and if this amount of mickey-taking doesn't shame him into slimmimg ....

Maybe the pattern is the wrong size. I used to grab my pattern but forget to check the size, and would come home with a too big pattern.

Michelle Giordano