Scored a lot of several packets of vintage Dritz tracing paper from eBay
a few months ago. Other than that found what I consider "tracing paper"
rather hard to find. Stores kept offering me what the children use in
school, which is not quite the same thing.
I use Chacopaper, available at art supply stores. It disappears with a
dab of water. But not for my sewing. Tracing darts and other symbols
on your fabric almost insures that your darts are going to be too fat
at the ends. The old Dritz paper is waxy, and could do permanent
damage to some of your fabrics, particularly sheer fabrics. You would
be better off snipping the legs of darts, and using a dot made with a
disappearing pen. You can then aim at the dot, instead of slavishly
following a line.
When I need to trace I now use "Chacopy tracing paper" at Nancy's Notions
NAYY. I found it to be better than the Dritz paper and Dritz tracing wheel
I'd used for many years, for me personally anyway. I also use the chalk
pencils on delicate or nubby fabric I don't want to wheel over. I got the
tracing wheel from N.N. as well, the edges aren't pointy sharp, kind of
dull. They mark through to the fabric without tearing the pattern paper or
leaving holes in the fabric if you put pressure on it. The Chacopy stays on
the fabric quite well but it removes easily.
tried "the pounce' method I once saw demonstrated on some sewing show on TV but never found that IMO it worked all that well, to say nothing of the mess it made.
In article ,
Honestly, I've never really seen a good marking paper. The old waxy
ones often stained the fabric and would not come out though I do still
use them when that will not be a problem. The blue and purple ones,
with ink like those blue and purple markers, were not very helpful
because you had to wash both out before you could press the seam or dart
or else the heat of the iron would make the markings permanent.
Personally, I don't find the chalk papers much more effective that a
hera marker but I do use them sometimes. For garments, I mostly take
snips or do markings in the seam allowances with a piece of soap on dark
items. For darts and other interior construction points, I almost
always do thread markings or sew through actual tracing (not marking)
paper to which I traced the dart or whatever plus a positioning mark.
>> > shows lots of sites.> >
Come now, having acquired lots of knowledge doesn't mean one is
"old". Rather it means one is knowledgeable/smart/savvy/with
I fully intend to continue learning new things and using my vast
knowledge until the day I die. And that's at *least* thirty
Beverly, feeling rather erudite herself at the moment.
"Phaedrine" > You will find instructions for tailor tacking in any good book
I don't even bother with tracing paper unless there is a special design
feature to mark that any other way would be untenable or time consuming.
Tailor's tacks are the only way I mark darts anymore. Learned how to do
them in junior high home ec class. Too many years ago to say.
AK in PA
firstname.lastname@example.org Is this a local saying? or does it come from a tv
shows' main character?
Actually use tracing paper mostly for marking embroidery outlines.
Marking darts and other things is best done with Tailor's tacks or other
tricks of the trade. Tracing seam lines with tracing paper can be messy
at best and can waste lots of time. Sewing straight seams is best
accomplished with good technique, a machine that sews straight, and if
required a seam guide.
Nearly everybody says to use multiple threads to make tailor tacks --
that makes no sense at all to me. A single thread shows up just fine
-- even when I use the thin two-ply thread I bought a cone of at a
garage sale. (There is, of course, a risk that one might mistake a
single-thread tack for lint and pick it off.)
Multiple threads do provide spares in case one pulls out -- but
threads that went in together will pull out together. I take an extra
stitch or two when I'm going to wool the fabric around.
Sharp scissors are essential. Chewing through the threads with dull
snips is apt to pull them out.
It helps to use one spool for all marking -- and a different spool for
basting. (And when one line of basting goes near another, and you
plan to take one out and leave the other in, it's a help to change
colors for the second baste.) On the other hand, you may want to
color-code marks. (I can't offhand think of a situation, but there's
bound to be one.)
Brilliant and dark colors of basting thread might rub off on the
fabric; test them before using.
Use up mistakes and left-overs for basting and marking --- insisting
on silk thread for marking and basting is pointless except when the
fabric is delicate. If you do buy silk thread for basting, go whole
hog and get #100. (On the one hand, #100 silk very weak -- on the
other hand, if you leave some in a garment by mistake, nobody will
I prefer crewel needles because I have aging eyes, but when fine
enough for basting, they tend to be ridiculous short. Milliner's
needles, straw needles, and beading needles have a reasonable length
in the finer sizes. (But none of them have stretched eyes!)