Treatise on expanding a skirt pattern by 10"!

Yup! 10 whole inches in a roundabout direction.

You know, with a pattern like this (Vogue 2796), you can't just divide it by 4 and add it all at the side seams. This is a lovely skirt, and the proportions need to be preserved as far as possible. It's made in 4 pieces, but that curved seam complicates things: there's not just the curve at hip level, there's also the added flare in that panel seam as well as on the side seams. Extra has to be added with care.

First I tackled the basic additions and cut the main back and front panels up what would be the dart placement if it had darts! This meant cutting both front and back panels in two places: down the length of the full panel and down through the half yoke. The same cut was made down the side/front and side/back panels - once for each. At each of the 4 cuts I added 1.25", giving me a total of 5": half my additional need. Then I added 1.5" to each side seam, front and back, giving a total of

6" added at the side seams. This allows for some preservation of the width proportions, and seemed a reasonable compromise. It also allows me an extra inch in case it's needed for the difference between cutting this from a stable knit and from a woven*. This is toile Mark I, so if it doesn't work, we can re cut and try again. :)

I feel it's a shame this pattern only goes up to a size 22, as it's a very flattering shape for the larger lady with no truly defined waist. Unfortunately Vogue and the other major pattern companies don't seem to cater for those of us with larger figures. The half yoke on the slant draws the eye away from the widest point, and the tea-gown length is flattering to almost all ankles.

You know, I liked this pattern so much when my customer chose it that I'm going to try it myself! I'm still not going to cut it from a knit: I have a light weight stretch denim with quite a bit of Lycra in it that I've been saving because I had no idea what to do with it! It'll make a fun summer skirt!

*I have two 'areas of interest' with this pattern: not only is it too small, but I'm making what is a knits pattern in a woven fabric! I'll keep you posted on progress after the toile fitting next week! :)
Reply to
Kate Dicey
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Isn't that a pretty skirt? I made it in a navy blue stable-ish rayon knit. I like it so much that I'm going to make another one in dk gray cotton jersey when I can get back into the sewing room.

-- Jenn Ridley : snipped-for-privacy@chartermi.net

Reply to
Jenn Ridley

Wow! I love that skirt. Can't wait to see the pictures. And I agree, it would be very flattering on a fuller figure. Good luck Kate!!

Sharon

Reply to
Sharon Hays

I'm also thinking it might be good for some seriously delicious bitter chocolate velour knit I have - if it isn't *too* stretchy! :)

Reply to
Kate Dicey

I can't think of anyone it *wouldn't* flatter! One more reason to love Issey Miyaki! :)

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Hmmmm, I dunno. Looking at the illustration, it seems to me that that seam across the abdomen might just emphasize the "pot" on many fuller figures.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

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Reply to
Olwyn Mary

Issey Miyake and Claude Montana are my two very favorites. Both have always evoked much commentary when I wear clothes made from their patterns. And they are just so much fun to sew. I always feel like my money has been well spent when I buy these patterns. What a pleasant change from the typical, unconstructed, boring designs more typical of the major pattern companies.

Thanks for posting about this project, Kate! I'll be reading any updates with great interest.

Phae

Reply to
Phaedrine

I'll try to post pix when it's done, but I'm not making a diary of this one as I'm doing that for two other bigger projects right now, and could get a bit pushed for time!

The toile is all cut out and I'll be sewing it tonight. I might just do my own version too! :) Mind you, that requires getting MY copy of the pattern out of the loft, where I stashed it in the great tidy up last week! Will it ever surface, or has it gone like that 10m or sofa fabric? The plot thickens... ;)

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Nah... It's below the abdomen. That slanted seam on mine crosses at about pubic bone level. Disguises my rather round tummy quite nicely, thank you! :)

Reply to
Kate Dicey

The toile worked out fine. Now I just need to wait until next week to see if it actually fits the lady! :)

My own version finally looks great - but it was a bit of a struggle! Mostly a fitting issue, and you know what trying to fit something on yourself is like - next to impossible!

Well, I discovered one of the down sides to having lost all this weight: I'm back to altering Vogue patterns! :( Shades of my murky past...

I cut this one size 16, for a 40" hip, as this was my exact measurement earlier today! Makes a great change from 49-50! :) Trouble is that my waist seems to have dropped another inch, and I had to take 4" out of the waistline, this is stretchy fabric, and there's a concealed zip in the side seam! It came out and got put in again, and I finally got everything sorted, and Alan approves! :) I even had to shave an inch or so off the hips to get it to hang just right. Because of my round tummy and hollow back, this is not a snuggly fitted waistband (more room for beer next weekend!), but it does look neat. I need to chop 2 or 3 inches off the hem, as tea length on a model is rather longer when you're only 5'4"!

So what did I do different with this one?

1: fabric - I used a woven stretch rather than the knit the pattern calls for. If I do a knit version, I'll cut it a size 14 to start with!

2: waistband - I didn't! I used Petersham instead. :) Gives me a finer waist under T shirts (which I like quite fitted), and is more comfortable when sitting if you have a bit of a tummy below the waist, as I have.

The only problem with the whole project is that the stretch denim sheds colour like nothing else! I have blue hands! :D Maybe I should have washed it first... or no! I have a better idea! Pora, just send those cotton bras over, and I'll dye them baby blue for you when I wash the skirt! ;)

I love this pattern even more now, and will be making it again. I have some nice plaid wool in the loft. Matching the plaid will keep me amused on long winter nights... ;)

Reply to
Kate Dicey

I was so interested by your remarks, I put in a bid on eBay for the pattern. And then I discovered I had bid on the wrong size so I was glad when someone outbid me!

Reply to
Phaedrine

I got it half price as part of an order from Vogue through the magazine. :)

Reply to
Kate Dicey

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