Beall Buffing - Price

Being frugal (read that cheap), what is about the lowest going price for the Beall Buffing System? I will probably also get the MT2 adapter to mount on my lathe since I don't have a motor.

Thanks,

Reply to
Rick
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About $30 US

- Andrew

Reply to
AHilton

Where did you find it at that price?

-mike

Reply to
Mike Paulson

I made it myself. $30 US is on the high-side too. That's if you buy all premium components. I scrounged a little and it cost under $13 US for exactly the same thing as the Beall System.

- Andrew

Reply to
AHilton

I gave a demonstration to our woodturning club a few months ago on a homemade version of the Beall system. It used 3/4" threaded rod from a homecenter with some large nuts and fender washers. I made it the maximum length of the lathe so there was plenty of space between each of the buffing wheels. One end was mounted in a block of wood that was drilled about one inch deep and glued with epoxy glue. This block was first turned to fit into the jaws of a Stonghold chuck. The other end fits into a cone center. it could also be fit into a block of wood that could be on a live center of some type. I covered the threaded rod with foam pipe insulation used for water pipes. This prevents the rod from accidently touching the workpiece and leaving marks. This system has the advantage of having a lot of space between the wheels, having all of the wheels available without remounting and it is very easy to take on and off of the lathe. I doubled the wax wheel for even more surface and I feel this system works very well. The wheels are available from a variety of sources although I ordered mine from Beall. It also allows me to use various speeds depending on the piece that I am polishing.

If you have any questions I would be happy to explain it in more detail.

Terry

Reply to
Terry Tjaden

To add another buffing dimension to Andrew's and Terry's 'cheapall' buffing system, try inserting long nap fluffy paint rollers on the threaded rod between the buffing wheels. Russ Fairfield (who isn't as cheap as we are) suggested using these rollers as long buffing wheels. Arch

Fortiter,

Reply to
Arch

I gave a demonstration to our woodturning club a few months ago on a homemade version of the Beall system. It used 3/4" threaded rod from a homecenter with some large nuts and fender washers. I made it the maximum length of the lathe so there was plenty of space between each of the buffing wheels. One end was mounted in a block of wood that was drilled about one inch deep and glued with epoxy glue. This block was first turned to fit into the jaws of a Stonghold chuck. The other end fits into a cone center. it could also be fit into a block of wood that could be on a live center of some type. I covered the threaded rod with foam pipe insulation used for water pipes. This prevents the rod from accidently touching the workpiece and leaving marks. This system has the advantage of having a lot of space between the wheels, having all of the wheels available without remounting and it is very easy to take on and off of the lathe. I doubled the wax wheel for even more surface and I feel this system works very well. The wheels are available from a variety of sources although I ordered mine from Beall. It also allows me to use various speeds depending on the piece that I am polishing.

If you have any questions I would be happy to explain it in more detail.

Terry

Reply to
Terry Tjaden

I tried essentially that a few years ago, but it was only 'really' useful on plain, 'open' bowls with tops wider than bottoms. Since I turn more stuff with flares, turned -in sides and other unusual features, I found I needed the Beall system to be open at the ends, so I could twist and aim. My 'invention' mostly just sets on a shelf now. I do like the idea of the paint rollers, etc. though, and if I ever do any amount of smaller, standard bowls again, I will sure keep everyone's ideas in mind.

Reply to
Bill Day

Look at the Wood N Things system on donpencil.com the adaptors screw onto the lathe so you don't have to deal with MT2 or draw bars

Reply to
jim driskell

Just adapt your already made system. My open-ended buffing setup is a threaded rod that:

1) can be directly held by a Jacobs chuck in both a drill press AND on the lathe (Jacobs chuck inserted into the headstock)

2) can be screwed onto a morse taper that is then inserted into the headstock of the lathe

3) can be screwed into the 1" adapter on the buffing/grinding arbor

When things get really tricky, I go for the smaller buffing wheel setup (still a threaded rod) that's put onto a hand drill. I then buff the insides of the pieces while they're still on the lathe.

For small things, I use a 1" loose flannel buffing wheel in my Dremel.

For the truly small things I make, I don't buff at all. Most people can't see them anyway (ie under 2mm in length).

So, considering all of the various buffing setups I have (including compounds, etc.) I've probably spent $45 for it all.

- Andrew

Reply to
AHilton

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