Beall Buffing System Question

OK, you've talked me into it. After all the talk on here about the Beall System, I've decided I really want one. I looked at Woodcraft and I don't know exactly what I need in order to get started. I assume I'll need the 3 pad system, but do I go with the bowl buffs or the flat pad buffing pads. Do I need a mandrel set or would I be better served tearing apart the old bandsaw that is shoved into the corner of my garage and rob parts off it to construct a buffing station? If I do that, is there anything else I need?

Mac, I know you've got some input here. Anyone else? Since I haven't bought anything yet, I'm open for any suggestions you might have. Also, I'm not above saving money, so if I can build something rather than buy that would be a plus.

Thanks, JD

Reply to
JD
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I have both and use them on the smaller lathe. I will eventually get around to sticking them on a surplus motor.

Reply to
Boru

What to get depends on what you do - size of pieces, type, etc.

I got the 3-buff setup with the stock arbor (1 buff mounts at the end), stock wheel buffs, and 4" bowl buffs. I use a shopsmith as the variable speed buffing device, and find that I have the work in positions that would be difficult with a mandrel often enough (and of course bowl buffs would not work on a mandrel) that I have not felt any yearn for one - I'd probably cobble it up myself if I wanted one at some future point in time, but I'd be more likely to set up 3 double-ended buffing heads to retain end access and bowl-buff use. I store the buffs and compound in large ziplocks, so that the fine one doesn't get contaminated by the coarse one, and the wax doesn't get contaminated by either.

The wheels get used on the outside, and the inside of large bowls - the bowl buffs I only use on the insides where the wheels can't reach. You want more RPMs for the smaller diameter bowl buffs, to keep the surface speed about the same. In theory you also want to gradually crank up the speeds as the diameters gradually wear down with use.

Reply to
Ecnerwal

I did some more searching and found this sight. Was wandering if anyone else tried this site?

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From what I've seen, they've got the buffs, an arbor for changing a motor into a buffer, and most anything else needed. After doing the math it looks like I could build the same thing as the Beall System for around $35-40. 8" Flannel buff - $4.49 8"Cotton Flannel-3.59 8"Cotton Buff -5.99 5/8" Shaft Adapter - 7.99 Approx. Total -22.00 Buffing Compounds from Woodcraft - 5.99 each Total 40.00

Did I miss anything?

JD

Reply to
JD

I started with the "normal" system, the one for about $70.. That lets you get started with the motor adapter and 3 wheels, along with the compounds.. I had a morse taper adapter from my shopsmith, if I didn't I would have bought theirs.. that way you can use it on your lathe, also.. (an old washing machine motor works well, but now I have an extra lathe)

Add bowl and goblet buffs as needed... I'd suggest staying with beall as you add buffs, so everything is interchangeable.. (buffs also thread onto the started adapter in the $70 kit)

If you can spare the cash, buy 3 of each size buff as you buy additional sizes.. Some venders say you only need 2 buffs but I use 3 of each size.. I think they come in 2, 3 & 4".. I have all of them now but for bowls, you only need the largest size.. Add others for goblets and larger boxes..

I briefly considered building or buying the "3 - in - 1" setup, with all three buffs spinning on the lathe at one time.. I decided against it because the way I buff, bowls would be a hassle on that setup.. I like the buffing wheel sort of hanging out it space and working the bowl, especially the inside, and think the rod between the wheels would get in the way.. Wheel changes are just a few seconds anyway.. also, I usually buff a few things at a time, so I just change wheels as needed..

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

The bowl buff and the Wood Buff use the SAME mandral/adapter. You need a #2 (or whatever) Morse Adapter that fits into your lathe. When it was new, that was sufficient. After a while, I needed to add a drawbar. (Threaded rod with a T Handle nut, and two nuts to act as a stop.

So you need three things The drawbar [$3 for homemade] the MT adapter [$9], The "Combination 1/2" - 5/8" Adaptor" [$15].

With this, you can mount any of the bowl or wood buffs. It goes on the RH side of your lathe.

If you want to mount on a motor, or LH thread, you need a different combination.

I also have the treen mandrel, which uses the same Morse Taper adapter.

Check the official web site for more info:

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Reply to
Maxwell Lol

Do the wheels come with the bolt and things in them?

Personally, I wouldn't re-invent the wheel to save $30.. Beall is the expert here and I'd want their wheels, for one thing..

My wife bought me the POS buffing system from Penn State Ind. and it sucked so bad that I had given up on buffing until my mentor talked me into trying the Beall.. The wheels were tiny and cheap, their wax was really poor quality and the motor that came with it was an absolute joke..

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

I've read some other info and think I agree with what you are saying here. Just needed someone else to say what I was thinking.

Thanks again, JD

Reply to
JD

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