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Beall buffing system for lighter wood

I've done several bowls lately using lighter wood and it has gotten me to thinking about the beall buffing system

One bowl was from a small piece of hackberry from a tree that died where I work. I managed to get a couple logs from the tree. The bowl turned out nice in general with some interesting worm holes but a big problem was caused by the color of the Tripoli used in the first step. I noticed that the Tripoli got into the worm holes and into small pores in the wood. I had a dickens of a time cleaning it out and even then some of the color remained behind.

Another bowl was from a piece of aspen and I had similar problems with the color of the Tripoli bar.

There are two solutions as I can see. Either I should apply some other finish first to fill the voids or find a substitute for the Tripoli that is a lighter color.

Reply to
william kossack
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I just don't bother with the tripoli if I think the color will cause problems. Billh

Reply to
billh

Another option is to simply sand to a higher grit and skip the Tripoli altogether.

- Andrew

Reply to
AHilton

Reply to
william kossack

I would think by "higher grit" Andrew is suggesting grits above 400, such as

600-1000. 200-240 grit is where a lot of turners start out at. Another point worth mentioning is, I don't think the Beal buffing system was ever meant to be used as a substitute for good sanding technique. Sanding wet wood can be aided by surface drying the piece, such as with a "hair dryer".
Reply to
James Barley

I usually sand to 600 or so before buffing, even with the tripoli wheel. 400 if I'm feeling lazy ;-) Exception: I stop at 400 on light woods because my finer papers are silicon carbide, which sometimes leaves black specs in the wood (even after blowing it off with an air compressor).

At some grit, though, sanding raw wood becomes pointless as the grit is finer than the structure of the wood. To get a smoother surface, you have to apply a film finish and sand that instead.

Reply to
DJ Delorie

BINGO!

Personally, I don't think the appearance of the piece is improved by stuffing sanding residue into the pores, either. Polish the finish, not the wood. You lose chatoyance by doing else.

In my experience domestics reach their end point ~320/400. Anything finer is for leveling the finish at my house.

Reply to
George

I keep on learning. I was stopping at 240 because that is the finest grit I could find for my sanding disk pads.

OK, I'm puzzled. Why then do places like woodcraft or rocklers carry nothing above 240 in hook loop sanding disks or paper?

I found some 400 online. For the 'New Wave Disks' the kits only go up to 320 but some 400 and higher is shown. None of these finer grits are available at the Denver Store. Most hardware stores like Home Depot carry only up to about 240 grit sandpaper.

Do you guys buy these sand>I would think by "higher grit" Andrew is suggesting grits above 400, such as >600-1000.

Reply to
william kossack

... what James and DJ said....

- Andrew

Reply to
AHilton

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For grits up to 2000, check out auto supply stores.

Reply to
DJ Delorie

Peter Teubel Milford, MA

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Reply to
Peter Teubel

Reply to
william kossack

Skip the Tripoli. Sand to a higher grit and then go to the white diamond and then wax.

-- Steve Worcester

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Better Woodturning through Technology (And a hell of alotta practice)

Reply to
Steve Worcester

Peter Teubel Milford, MA

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Reply to
Peter Teubel

Actually, wave backup pads are also offered.

Derek

Reply to
Derek Hartzell

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