buffing

I found a video on YouTube at:

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The video was on buffing. I found the buffing process interesting enough to fork over some money and buy some buffs. Then the recent winter storm hit and the weather turned cold before they arrived. What I am wondering about is how to buff in cold weather (northern Wisconsin in the US). From searching a little in this blog I find posts saying tung oil needs to be about 70 degrees F to dry out. I have an insulated but unheated garage to work in. Do many people just skip the oil and buff the wood alone or is some sort of oil a necessity? Thanks.

Reply to
TWW
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> The video was on buffing. I found the buffing process interesting > enough to fork over some money and buy some buffs. Then the recent > winter storm hit and the weather turned cold before they arrived. > What I am wondering about is how to buff in cold weather (northern > Wisconsin in the US). From searching a little in this blog I find > posts saying tung oil needs to be about 70 degrees F to dry out. I > have an insulated but unheated garage to work in. Do many people just > skip the oil and buff the wood alone or is some sort of oil a > necessity? Thanks. I'd just bring them in the house for a few days before buffing them. ...Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Miller

I have the beal system and I like it alot.

No oil required.

You may get more depth with oil, but it is certaily not required for a nice finish.

Try it.

Reply to
C & S

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>The video was on buffing. I found the buffing process interesting >enough to fork over some money and buy some buffs. Then the recent >winter storm hit and the weather turned cold before they arrived. >What I am wondering about is how to buff in cold weather (northern >Wisconsin in the US). From searching a little in this blog I find >posts saying tung oil needs to be about 70 degrees F to dry out. I >have an insulated but unheated garage to work in. Do many people just >skip the oil and buff the wood alone or is some sort of oil a >necessity? Thanks. I use the Beall wheels and buffs on all of my work, pens to large vases.. On softer woods, I find that a coat or 2 of Danish oil makes a very nice buffing surface, but for hard or oily woods, no finish is needed... Sand and buff..

Tung oil takes forever to dry.. Danish oil has driers in it and when applied on the lathe and rubbed in well, it should dry in a day or so in moderate temperatures.. I have the most problems with it drying in the hot humid summer here. in MX..

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

Reply to
Bob Daun

Thanks to all who answered. I did a cherry bowl today at 27 degrees F with no oil and was pleased with the results. When it warms up I will try Danish or Formby's tung oil finish.

Reply to
TWW

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